CBX Stripdown - page 10 (Vol. 52 - February 1992)

• Remove the oil filter with a 12mm spanner (pics 34 and 35). Have a receptacle ready to remaining oil. Tilt engine to fully drain.
• Note that the washer that sits flat against the oil filter was missing from this engine. Pic 36 shows the correct order of all components. A missing washer results in reduced oil pressure.
• Remove circlip from piston No 1 using scriber (pic 37) and throw it away. Old circlips should never be re-used.
• Slide the gudgeon across to free the piston from the conrod. John has never had a gudgeon pin that has jammed yet.
• Remove the outer gudgeon pin from No 6 piston taking care not to score the gudgeon pin boss in piston. Continue as for No 1 piston. Remove other pistons working inwards.
• Re-assembly note: always put the circlip gap towards top of piston. On this engine some of the gaps aligned with the lever hole in the piston and could have been dislodged.
• Scribe the crown of each piston so that the can be replaced in correct 1-6 order. All pistons are marked IN to show inlet side for reassembly.

• You can make an initial check for big-end play, though the only accurate way of establishing big end clearance is to use Plastigage, which requires the workshop manual to explain fully how to go through this procedure. To Plastigage correctly you require a fixture in a lathe which holds both crankshaft and conrod rigidly. If not done correctly, false readings will result.
• Try to lift the conrod up and down to feel for big end play. Any movement will necessitate further investigation and overhaul. This engine showed no sign of play in any of its six big ends. Usually the only time trouble occurs is when the motor has been run low on oil.
• Any good quality 10W40 is fine for the CBX. I use PJ1 and have done since 1980 in the CBX.

   

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