CBX Stripdown - page 9 (Vol. 52 - February 1992)

Starting on the Bottom End Last month John Wyatt explained how to remove and strip down the six cylinder motor's cylinder head. Now he takes a look inside. Words by Brian Crichton, pictures, Rod Sloane. Our numbering sequence follows on from part one of the feature.

BEFORE continuing our strip-down on the rest of the engine, work the cylinder head gasket off carefully after pulling out front cam chain guide (pic 26).

• Check gasket for signs of leakage. It was discovered that there was some oil leakage on No I cylinder from the oil drain to the combustion chamber (pic 27).
• It was seen that No 2 piston had been replaced at some time. While the others were covered in carbon this one was clean, indicating that it had recently been fitted (pic 28).
• To remove the cylinder block first undo the nut just above the oil filter (10mm spanner, pic 29).
• If the block is not free use a soft faced hammer to tap it as shown in picture 30 and also at the opposite end of the block. Work the barrel gradually up the studs until it is about 1/2" above the crankcase and remove cam chain tensioner.
• Continue to work block up. Be careful not to let pistons and rods bang against crankcase mouth when they are freed from the block.
• You are now one-third of the way through the stripdown and will have accumulated many similar looking parts. Now is the time to have a cup of tea and tidy up all removed parts creating space for the bottom end stripdown.

• You are now one-third of the way through the stripdown and will have accumulated many similar looking parts. Now is the time to have a cup of tea and tidy up all removed parts creating space for the bottom end stripdown.
• Freezer bags are very useful for keeping parts together. For example, put head nuts and bolts and two cam chain bolts in a bag complete with the pin you will find in the crankcase which held the cam chain guide in place (pin shown in pic 31).

• Inspect all cam caps (pic 32), cam chain tensioner and guide (pic 33). The parts in this engine are all in very good order so far, and none need to be replaced. That said, there was the first sign of wear on the tensioner (pic 33) and since a full rebuild is being undertaken replacing this part is probably a sensible precaution.

   

SECTION:	HOME PAGE	Whipping out the Engine	Preparation and top end strip	Starting on the Bottom End	Stripping the Bottom End	Putting it Together