The International CBX Owners Association

Very interesting work! Glad to see an update on this.

At last, after adjustment, with the right tool, with fat one it was impossible to enter between the carburetors. CB1 chassis is different from the PROLINK, with long tool carburetors can be adjusted comfortably.

I installed permanent brass adapters with rubber caps, from carbtune:

http://www.ekmpowershop28.com/ekmps/sho ... s-14-p.asp

Pretty cool! One minor point - it's not the chassis that's different from CB1 to Pro-Link, it's the angle of the carbs. Chassis is exactly the same in that area. You do need the stubby adjuster tool from Honda to do the adjuster between 5&6.

Dave

Very odd, I was sure I posted here yesterday... It's not here now...

Hello friends
From my experience with other bikes, vacuum in the cylinder has to be larger than zero just before the admission valve opens.
If not, the engine does not spins accurately, it seems that is about to stall at 1000 rpm, you have to raise to 1400 rpm to hear engine spins without noise.
I started researching, insolator carburetors, intake rubbers were ok.
If you put your finger in upon cut-off valve cover, you could feel intake air loss.
Cut-air valve was perforated and the special o-ring was missing.
After changing cut-off valve and o-ring from David Silver Spares everything works much better at 1000 rpm, the engine spins more regular and much less noise.
You can see in the graphic cylinder one before and after replace and put cut-off valve and o-ring.
I´m happy, my bike runs fine, and my machine works too!