DRIVE CHAIN ANOMOLY

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:05 pm

I seem to have a problem when tightening my drive chain. I have been hearing a intermittent tap underneath my left foot when taking off. I put the bike on the stand and ran it in gear and realized that the chain was loose and hitting below the front sprocket. I tightened the chain and then turned the wheel 1/4 turns and checked the play. The chain tightness isn't equal as the wheel turns, it goes from loose to tight. Would this be a bent axle?

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:58 pm

Doubtful. Usually means the chain has 'stretched' which isn't really what has happened either. To clear things up you have to thoroughly clean the chain making sure not to injure any X or O rings but do try to unkink any chain links, which is probably the cause of your chain seeming tight in one area and loose in another. After cleaning and lubing, if the problem still exists, get a new chain and inspect the sprockets for a possible switch as well. Normally I go thru two chains to every set of sprockets.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:51 pm

Definitive answer by Terry.....

Rick Pope · Post by **Rick Pope** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:12 pm

Third vote for Terry. He nailed it

If you stop to think about it, a bent axle wouldn't cause a loose/tight situation, because the axle is clamped, and the wheel rotates around it.

cbx6ss · Post by **cbx6ss** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:37 pm

I too vote for the bound link. Just to be sure the sprocket is not off center, you might want to check if there is runout on the sides or the outside edge (teeth) of the sprocket.
/r
Brad

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:11 pm

Thanks for the vote of confidence guys! I guess I should also mention that there (is) the possibility of your already missing some O rings or may have some cracked rollers so check for that as well and let us know how it works out.

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:03 pm

Thanks for the response, I think I will just get another chain and see what happens. The broken rollers makes sense because I am getting intermitant popping sounds at takeoff. I checked the front sprocket shaft to make sure the bearing was good and there was no lateral wobble.

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 4:36 pm

I pulled the drive chain off this morning and there were 12 stiff links and 6 too stiff to pivot by hand so I used a vise and pliars to work them back and forth after cleaning and lubing. All 12 are still stiffer than they should be but after a ride the whooshing noise and tapping are gone so I guess they are pivoting like they should.

Will driving the bike loosen the links more or do I need to replace the chain? All the O-rings seem to be there.
Thanks

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:28 pm

Putting some miles on a clean and lubed chain (may) loosen those sticky links. Only time and mileage will tell for sure. Being stiff, they may ride up to the top of your sprocket making the teeth appear pointed. If that's the case, you'll need sprockets and a new chain.

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:06 pm

The sprockets look like new so I will just keep an eye on things. Now all I have to do is set the valves and all the funky noises will be gone...........with the exception of the clutch basket and generator slip joint of course.
Thanks for the help.

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Wed Jul 22, 2009 9:52 pm

Does anyone sell the 79 drive chain for under $100.00?
Thanks.

alimey4u2 · Post by **alimey4u2** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 4:08 am

Try J C Whitney but "normally" inexpensive chains are false economy..

twinegar · Post by **twinegar** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:27 am

Is the 108" 530 right? How do I know if the link length is correct? I am afraid I know nothing about chains. Maybe I had better just pay the $130 for a 79 CBX chain.

Dave Hansen · Post by **Dave Hansen** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 8:13 pm

The 79 came with 630 chain. If it has 530 someone converted it. Which ever it has make sure you stay with that or change chain and sprockets. You can't mix and match. So how do you tell? measure the center to center length between the pins. The first number is the number of eighth inches. 530 will be 5/8's between pins, 630 will be 6/8's(3/4) the 30 means it goes on a 3/8 wide sprocket. If it has 530, stick with that. If it is 630, consider the 530. Its usually cheaper, more efficient, not as noisy. Don't skimp on chain, Larry was correct, its a false economy. Buy a decent Oring chain and with proper maintanence it will outlast a couple "cheap" chains.

cbxtacy · Post by **cbxtacy** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:43 pm

on the other hand if you have a garage full of toys to occupy your time and this particular bike will be lucky to get more then a thousand miles while a democrat is in office, you might consider a cheap chain.