The International CBX Owners Association

Hi Guys

When i brought my CBX as a project, the previous owner had stripped and bagged a lot of parts but he also stripped things too far as well. one of those items is the pulser. I have remounted the 3 black ignition triggers as best I can and just wondered How critical these positions are? The first one can be set from the initial timing off the F Mark, but the other two there is nothing to check their positions against. Do I make up a Degree wheel and line it up on the crank end? any suggestions very welcome.

best Regards

Martin

robsgreen wrote:Hi Guys

When i brought my CBX as a project, the previous owner had stripped and bagged a lot of parts but he also stripped things too far as well. one of those items is the pulser. I have remounted the 3 black ignition triggers as best I can and just wondered How critical these positions are? The first one can be set from the initial timing off the F Mark, but the other two there is nothing to check their positions against. Do I make up a Degree wheel and line it up on the crank end? any suggestions very welcome.

best Regards

Martin

I think that's pretty much your only option Martin. Mount and index the degree wheel to the crank end and set the other two in 120 degree increments from the first.

Thanks for confirming that,
now wheres my school protractor!

cheers

Martin

Forgot to ask something else. I cant see in the manual what the gap should be between the rotor tip and trigger tip, any ideas?

regards

Martin

If you are going to do this timing thing, don't rely on the accuracy of the marks on the crankshaft.

The most reliable way is to make yourself a piston stop out of an old spark plug with the centre electrode knocked out of it. Then use it to precisely determine TDC. Your spark needs to fire 10 degrees before top dead centre. I believe this can be checked with a test light across the coil for the appropriate cylinder pair. Suggest starting with Cyls 1 & 6, this will confirm your marks on the crankshaft are correct (or how much they are out).

You can then use the same approach for the other two pairs of cylinders to get them spot on.

Not sure if the image below is useful, but at least this shows you the correct location of the pulser go each cylinder pair



Re the gap, don't have much to offer there, but suggest as long as the gaps are the same across all three pulsers and there's no high speed "kissing" going on there between reluctor and pulser, you should be good to go. Others may know more on this one.

Hope this helps.

Cheers...Tony

Think I address the gap thing in another thread, but if you make it .020 inch or so you'll be OK.

Dave