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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:09 pm
by cbxtacy
yes they are and the lip around the o-ring is very brittle. I seem to remember cracking one. TIMS still has an oil pressure guage with elbow and cap. Might be a billet cap.

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:16 pm
by cbxtacy
and as far as which cylinders get the hottest, I think it's a toss-up between the 3/4 and 2/5 because the 3/4 have a pretty big air space between them where as the 2/5 have other cylinders tight on both sides of them. And as little finning on the CBX for it's displacement compared to other large displacement, multi cylinder bikes from the same era, I'll betcha when it gets REALLY hot (traffic-little or no airflow) the 2/5 are hotter then the 3/4. Someone get one of those temp sensing guns and take your X out in traffic on a really hot day and let us know, please?

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:21 pm
by Terry
In re: "Someone get one of those temp sensing guns and take your X out in traffic on a really hot day and let us know, please?"

What good will knowing which one's are hottest do for us? Its not like we can change anything to keep them cooler.

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:37 pm
by cbxtacy
Well, Terry, it won't do us (you and me) a bit of good because we live in California and if we get in traffic, we split the lanes and keep moving. But if someone wanted to develop a water mist cooling system that would spray a light mist of water over the hottest cylinders to cool them when they reached a certain temperature it would be good to know which cylinders to spray. And it would be real convenient to make it thermostatically controlled with a buzzer to let you know when the water gets low. And if you fill your camelbak with vodka/orange juice and leave it in the freezer overnight, how long will it stay cold on a real hot day? Gee, another experiment someone can do. (don't try it Twinegar (I wonder if he's asking himself "Try what?") and sorry for the hijack (I must be bored))

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:52 pm
by twinegar
Brass fittings come either tapered or straight. My hardware store has them in 2 separate racks.

Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:54 pm
by twinegar
Pretty funny, am I getting a mad scientist rep? After all my website is called "Spooky's".

Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 10:23 pm
by bdento59
cbxtacy wrote:150c=302f. It's been years (20+) since I've had a guage on a bike with a stock cooler. Here's a cooler similar to what I use:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
What brand are your 13 row coolers? The link you gave shows a 16 row Derale in a lineup that has 6, 10 or 16 rows. I'm wondering if a 16 row will block the tach drive port on the valve cover, plus in any event 16 rows is huge. TIA

Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 11:08 pm
by Don #6141
Earl's makes 13 row coolers - 4 inches tall

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A8QJRK

I've been loking at this narrower, shorter (3 inches tall) 10 row cooler - Still a big improvement over the stock one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A8JJ3Q

Too much of a 'good thing' is still 'too much' ;)

Don

Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 12:01 am
by bdento59
Don #6141 wrote: I've been loking at this narrower, shorter (3 inches tall) 10 row cooler - Still a big improvement over the stock one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A8JJ3Q
Nice. What size AN fittings correspond to the approx. ID of the CBX oil cooler lines?

Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 12:13 am
by cbxtacy
My coolers are attached to the lines with cute little machined aluminum blocks that bolt to the lines so I can't help you. One of my bikes had a 16 row and it was tight with the tach cable. And I use spacers that move the top of the cooler up about 7/8" from the brackets.

Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 12:18 am
by Don #6141
bdento59 wrote:Nice. What size AN fittings correspond to the approx. ID of the CBX oil cooler lines?
-10 (10/16ths or 5/8ths) fit the Honda engine fittings if you're replacing the hoses . . . . or they will fit in the stock hoses

Don

Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 5:04 pm
by bdento59
twinegar wrote:The led volt panel would allow replacement of the oem volt meter with the temp gauge without losing anything. Cutting or drilling the fuse cover is no biggy either because they are available and cheap in case someone wants to put it back later.
Too bad this one is too big to mount on the fuse cover or under the black square... http://tinyurl.com/6g8bky . I was looking at this oil temp gauge to fit where the voltmeter usually sits http://tinyurl.com/5e3233 , but it's not the right size (body too big, bezel too small) http://tinyurl.com/5n8zeq

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 2:42 pm
by bdento59
twinegar wrote:Here are the ones I am looking at:

http://www.sso-usa.com/performance/Inst ... ature.html
How does the "through the face" lighting of the vision series look along side of the "side lit" stock tacho and speedo? I'm trying to decide whether to go with the VDO Cockpit series (side lit) or the Vision series (through the face). Your opinion wouild be very helpful, thanks.

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 3:21 pm
by cbxtacy
of al the guages I've used I prefer the Daytona http://www.rnrfabrication.com/digitalguages.htm because it's small and thin. Easy to mount with velcro and you can remove it and place it on another vehicle.

Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 6:51 pm
by bdento59
cbxtacy wrote:of al the guages I've used I prefer the Daytona
Nice, thanks, just not for me, as I'm going to mount oil temp gauge where the voltmeter used to live.