The International CBX Owners Association

EMS wrote:I was just too curious why I do and remember things that aren't really important, so I tried to dug into why I am doing these things that waste my time and who told me to.
Turns out, Mike Nixon in his carb service booklet says on page 3 :

Remove each top and spring. Keep them together

and

Remove the slides, keeping them in order also

I agree, if you do a bunch of carbs at the same time, it becomes difficult to keep the pieces together, but I would think most of us do just one set at any time.
And lining all parts up after disassembly as Mike shows in a picture on page 11 helps me a lot to keep track of everything.
It may indeed not be important, but I will keep doing it. You all do what you think works best for each of you.

Yes I agree it is in Mikes book and all. That book is a great one also. I would not of started taking these carbs apart without purchasing it. There is a allot of tips in it that has helped me in the past over the years.

Ok, carbs asembled, doing a leak test.
Left bank, 1-3 is good so far, no leaks, all accelerator jets are squirting.
Number 4 carb, is leaking on the overflow.
I guess I'll have to take the bowl off and check the float again.

It could also be the brass standup pipe split.

Are you saying that It maybe broken?
I don't remember it leaking before but I'll check.
I remember that when I has carbs right side up when measuring floats, one of the float pins came out and it was kind of loose. I hope that didn't happen!

The brass stand tube can have a hairline crack in it. I have soldered them with good results. You can check them with carb cleaner with nozzle sharpened shoved in the overflow brass tube on the outside of carb. and at the same time plug the top of the brass tube in your bowl with your finger. You have to have your drain screw in also. Some guys has replaced this tube but I never have had to. CAUTION wear eye protection.There is a thread somewhere on this. Do a search.. good luck

Thanks Tevan, it was a float adjustment.
Nothing is leaking now!

I would leave gas on it overnight to be sure your good to go. I am glad it was a easy one for you.

At last, carbs went on the bike today, i let the bowls fill up by blowing into the auto valve vent tube and when i saw that fuel stopped flowing i pushed the start button and bike fired right up. after 1 sec. of cranking and it sounded awesome
I knew that it was running on all 6 the moment i heard the sound. No leaks, i let it warm up a bit and took it for a ride and wow! I cannot believe how smooth it is!
I had to adjust the idle a bit and i think i should be adjusting the mixture as i left them at 1 1/4 turns by the book.
There is a clutch chatter a bit on the idle so hopefully carb sync will smooth that out too.
Thank you everyone for all the help you provided!




I had few issues though.
First,
Attaching throttle cables to the grip, before i close and screw in the switch housing, throttle would snap right back but after closing it, it seems to be sticking, as if it was too tight and after multiple times on and off i got it to work however it still does not snap back as quickly as when the housing is open. Any clues? Should i lube it a bit?
It was like like this even before i took the carbs off to cleaning.
Second,
Putting back the front sprocket, as i took it off, there was a Bolt, Plate Guide, Washer, Large rubber washer and sprocket.
Looking in the manual there seems to be a part missing, the one that goes between the plate guide and the sprocket, number 4 on the Diagram. There is no large washer but when i put things back without the large washer, the plate guide rubs against chain so i guess i need that washer or which ever part i'm missing there.
I also looked on bike bandit parts diagram, the piece i'm missing is not on the diagram. Any clues?
Note:
I went by MIke Nixon instructions to remove the carbs without removing the front sprocket and it was very tight and difficult to remove them but, before i was putting them in, i removed the front sprocket which allowed the engine to tilt more and that made a huge difference, much easier to reinstall carbs this way.

Here are the pictures of the diagrams.