The International CBX Owners Association

I just paid close to $1000 for a shock for my Stelvio. That was with remote preload adjust. If you can get one (from anywhere) with remote adjust, for under $800, it's a good deal.

My new 82 CBX has a Progressive shock, installed by the PO, within the last ten years. No remote preload, unfortunately. It's SO hard to get at on these bikes, I'd suggest the remote is well worth the premium (usually $200 to $300, depending on manufacturer.)

Certainly on the preload feature with the Progressive in an 82. Essentially requires removing the rear wheel with the manual set. Either set-it-and-forget-it or ponyup for the remote preload feature.

Shocks are stupid expensive. Or so they seem, until you spring for one, feel the difference in ride and handling, and forget all about the coin. I waffled forever before putting a new shock on my GRiSO. Dumb, move on my part.

UPS delivered one today, earlier than I thought. I adjusted the dial to #4 and we’ll adjust the Sag at the other end at the shop later this week or the next. Other than riding over the hill to NV I’ve been jonesin for a ride throughout all of hiway 49 which begins just 8 miles up the road. It ends SE of Quincy and Lassen N.P. near the NV border N of Reno then head NW towards Lassen on hiway 70. 89 into the Park and then decide which way to go, N into OR then over to the coast or W towards the coast but still in CA. ALL two lanes. The new shock will be a nice addition to my new 82.

And by the end of that ride, you'll have forgotten how much the shock cost.

Rick Pope wrote: Sat Jun 29, 2024 1:15 am Shocks are stupid expensive. Or so they seem, until you spring for one, feel the difference in ride and handling, and forget all about the coin. I waffled forever before putting a new shock on my GRiSO. Dumb, move on my part.

Same thing with buying good gear. I've cringed at the price but never found myself later wishing I still had the old, thin, cold, damp jacket, etc. On the contrary, I was wishing I'd sprung for the pants too. Plan on some gold valves and new springs for the forks. You won't regret that either.

Suspension is now Job 1 when I get a new-to-me motorcycle. It can pretty much always be improved, sometimes dramatically, and once you know the difference, it's hard to not do it.

That shock and RaceTech gold valves are the best thing that a person can do for a prolink. New bike.

Not exactly a good time for an extended ride on an air cooled six and it’s hotter just about everywhere I’d like to go. It’s even in the 80s above 6-8,000’ in the Sierras!

Dynamohum wrote: Tue Jul 02, 2024 7:01 pm IMG_0813.png

Not exactly a good time for an extended ride on an air cooled six and it’s hotter just about everywhere I’d like to go. It’s even in the 80s above 6-8,000’ in the Sierras!

I believe that I read that Redding is expected to be 110+ for days. It is going to be hot this week. Stay safe in this heat
Best,
Phil

Yeah, triple digits thru mid month and 120 on the 7th. I want to ride east of there and up thru Lassen NP but I’m not leaving until it cools down a bit. When Furnace Creek/Death Valley get in the 130s, everywhere else is going to be HOT. Everywhere except where my daughter lives, Oxnard in Ventura County. Her home is about a mile and a half from the beach. She called today just to tell me about the fog she was driving through! Whenever it gets ‘too’ hot where I live I always check Furnace Creek or Phoenix. Makes me feel better…

I'm pleasantly surprised to see that gold valves are not terribly expensive (in comparison to rear shock). The Racetech web site list the valves and adapters for the CBX as $230 and the springs $150. Can anyone who's done this conversion on a Prolink bike verify if those are the only parts required, as the site also mentions top out springs and preload spacers.

Devonian wrote: Wed Jul 03, 2024 8:45 pm I'm pleasantly surprised to see that gold valves are not terribly expensive (in comparison to rear shock). The Racetech web site list the valves and adapters for the CBX as $230 and the springs $150. Can anyone who's done this conversion on a Prolink bike verify if those are the only parts required, as the site also mentions top out springs and preload spacers.

You will reuse your existing top-out springs, and new preload spacers will be needed, as the RaceTech springs are all much shorter than the stock items. I use 1/2” PVC pipe, cut square in a mitre box and sanded smooth, and two of the washers that they will furnish in their kit on either end. I am #230, and prefer my suspension a little firmer, so I use 15w suspension fluid. So you will need some of that. And I can’t seen R-Ring a fork and not cleaning it out and changing the seals, so you might want to budget for a set of new oil and dust seals.

Totally worthwhile.

N.

Definitely new seals. (cheap) Spacers can be several things: that pvc is good, piece of water pipe, stack of washers, etc. It's an easy job. A drill press is handy to enlarge the holes in the damping rod. But, can do with a hand drill. Adjust the vales to your liking. To reset them after initial install, they are easy to pull from the tubes using a claw thingy. No need to drain oil. You will be happy with them.