The cases are stronger than the hangars and with the length of that 'puck' you might bend your frame too. You can purchase professional crash protection for the cylinder heads that bolt to the head itself from CSG and they are not expensive.
Today it was time to remove the sump and oil strainer. Now, the strainer looked clean enough from the outside BUT this was far from the case when I removed it. Worryingly there appeared to be oil behind the strainer which you would have thought would have drained back into the sump so I'm glad I removed it. Upon close inspection the strainer was not clogged but it was not clear either. It appears that there was old dried on oil on the strainer screen, it's only when you remove the strainer can you see this so it is vital that all CBXers remove this when they next change the oil - don't forget to buy a new rubber sump gasket!
Once the strainer was removed the trusty compressor was used to blow out the mesh screen from below, from above and then again from below (it is not on the bike at this stage). Once it is totally clear it's ready to go back on. I should say it's well worth cleaning the inside of the sump too, often some of the heavier deposits lurk there and need to be removed.
Does anyone know if the oil pick up funnel unscrews from the oil pump? It will make it much easier to re-install the gently warmed strainer mesh. Thanks
I use a heat gun on any screens I've managed to save (that would be very few). The new ones have nice pliable rubber that you do not need to heat. No real tricks - it's a tough job.
Very hot water and a lot of fiddling about with it worked. Given the lack of clearance between the sides of the strainer funnel and the edges of the sump body on the crankcase, I found that fitting the strainer to the front first and then rotating the strainer as you go to fit it around the rest of the edges until it is fully seated. Phew, I'm glad that's on now.
Checked and 'adjusted' all 24 valve shims - a fiddly job but easy in many way with the right tools, small telescopic magnetic tool, proper bucket compressor e.g from David Silver spares, small flat blade screwdriver, a box full of shims and a digital micrometer.
BUT, I noticed that one of the oil pool plates looked odd and once removed I initially thought that the black paint was coming off the middle one, upon closer inspection it became clear that these are plastic coated but somehow water has gotten underneath the plastic and started to rust the metal. I've scrapped off all of the plastic inside of the plastic/rubber surround to stop and debris coming off inside the engine and causing who knows what damage. So, if you ever remove the cam cover, check yours. Not sure if you can buy new ones... anyone?
I also found it quicker to isolate the two feeler fingers I would use - one was .102mm and the second was .127mm, best check you have feelers that go down thsi small before you start. This way you can quickly check the gap is between the two 'limits' A light drag on the .102 followed by the .127 not fitting means they are correct. See also the pic of the tools etc
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