My enquiry with Rekluse has been referred to their R&D department so we will wait and see if they come up with something. In the meantime I have ordered a new set of Barnett steel plates to see if they help when attempting to select neutral.
I have fitted the larger slow jets (#62's in place of #60's) and the revs are no longer hanging. The off idle throttle response seems better, at least in the workshop and it immediately drops back to a normal idle. I will have to wait a few weeks for another track test but it looks hopeful and having a stable idle speed may assist gear selection too altho' Roly reckons he always had the idle on the Beast set at 2,000 rpm to make downshifts easier. This only applies to bikes with shaved cranks, however,
Of course, changing these very fine jets requires pulling the carbs off because it is a rather delicate bench job. Changing needle position is also a delicate bench job because the locating circlips are so tiny and have a tendency to sproing off into the ether never to be seen again. But I can extract the needles from above after removing the tank and top caps without removing the carbs from the bike. Nobody in their right mind likes fitting solid banks of 6 carbs to a CBX and CR carbs are even more fiddly.
Anyhow, I have done it so many times that I have developed my own technique, so this is how I do it:-.
First, copious quantities of rubber grease on both ends of the rubbers after carefully checking that they have not developed any splits.
Second, gently heat the rubbers for 5-10 minutes with a heat gun so they are nice and pliable.
Third, place the clamps loosely on the carbs out of the way behind the rubbers and in the order you want to tighten them (I always have the screws on the outer carbs facing outwards and at 12 o'clock and #'s 3 & 4 I place underneath at 6 o'clock, also facing out.
Fourth, line the carbs up with the inlet spigots on the head with the boots already mounted on the carbs but not clamped and try to push them all on evenly together. If you do one end first, when you try to push the other end in the first end will inevitably pop out again. After doing that half a dozen times you will appreciate the 'line 'em all up and give em' a single shove' technique. The recommended technique in the manual of tilting the motor is essentially the same but you do not need to drop the motor forward if you use my method.
Fifth, finally make sure the clamps are all correctly seated in the grooves in the rubbers otherwise you will end up with splits and the rubbers not sealing properly. The motor will then run unevenly and usually the headers on those cylinders will either run too hot (lean) or too cold (not firing at all).
On CR's you also have to be careful with the position of the drain screws too because #4 has to be carefully measured with a micrometer and filed down so that it does not end up resting on the primary chain bulge in the cases. This also enables you to loosen all the drain plugs to drain the carbs between runs otherwise the additives in the PULP will, if left long enuf' for the fuel to evaporate, gum up the jets.
Whenever, I hear stories about CBX carb problems the first thing I would visually check is the condition of the rubbers and whether they are mounted properly. I think this applies to CV's just as well as CR's.
The second thing I would try with CBX carb problems, especially if you have lengthy lay ups during winter, etc. is spaying some carb cleaner down the fuel line. Modern unleaded fuels go off and gum up the works very quickly and a can of carb cleaner will often cure poor running problems on bikes that have been sitting around unused for a while.