The International CBX Owners Association

So got the front wheel removed, and now to remove the axle,
I tried with a breaker bar to remove the axle nut but it is not budging. it seems like it is way overtightened.
Can anyone tell me, is the axle nut a reverse thread (remove clockwise), or just a regular normal thread, (remove counterclockwise).

Regular threads. They can be real tight.

Heat the nut up with a MAP torch - it'll come. Guys way overtighten these.

Dave

I had one that was tight just two days ago. I put the whole thing with the wheel in a vise to hold it and then broke it loose with a breake rbar.

A deep well socket and an impact gun always works for me.

Will give it another shot today. Thanks.
Is there an electronic version of the Clymer Manual.

CBX-tras wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 21, 2020 9:02 am

I deep well socket and an impact gun always works for me.

The deep well socket only works on one side. You then still have the issue to have to hold the axle on the two flats on the other side, which is difficult to clamp.

Manual can be found here.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8661

Another way I learned on the KZrider forum to loosen things up is Magic Juice - Mix 50% ATF 50% Acetone and use a paintbrush to apply on the parts. Let it sit and repeat. It works surprisingly well.

EMS wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 21, 2020 3:48 pm

CBX-tras wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 21, 2020 9:02 am

I deep well socket and an impact gun always works for me.

The deep well socket only works on one side. You then still have the issue to have to hold the axle on the two flats on the other side, which is difficult to clamp.

I use a 17mm Snap-On wrench and a IR Impact gun. Have done hundreds of axle removals. Never had one that couldn't be undone.

If you don't have the appropriate tools then, remove the wheel assembly, clamp the round end of the axle to either fork leg with the wheel to the outside of the fork assembly. This will hold the axle, (entire wheel away from the bike) using the fork leg as a lever then, remove the nut and collar with a 22mm deep socket or wrench.

Will try this last method to clamp the axle with wheel on the outside of forks and use a long prybar with the 22mm socket.
Thanks for this, will report back on how it goes.

Have heard of the acetone and ATF fluid as a good penetrant.

Great tips, thank you all.

Interesting experiment on u-tube that a guy did comparing penetrants. Tested Kroil, PBlaster, acetone/atf,WD40 and cheapo Liquid Wrench. Surprisingly, the Liquid Wrench was definitely best of all. Almost. A torch outperformed them all. (But, you might not want to do the torch thing on the front wheel.)

So, here's the update.
I clamped the one side of the axle in the right oustside fork, Then used a long pry bar with a 22 mm socket, and lo and behold it popped off. Have to admit this nut was on there tight, wonder if last person used and air ratchet and way overtightend it.
Also got the Aluminum retaining ring off no problem, used a small drill, maybe .100 to drill slightly thru the 2 punched areas, used a small chisel to tap along the 4 square flats to turn it out, and replaced the bearings as well, looks like they were the original Honda bearings, sealed one side only.

Looks like the tire on the bike is a 110, not a 100. Had a heck of a time getting the rubber over the lower fender lips. Now wanted to put the tire back on, and do you think I can get the 110 tire back on. NO. Have to remove the 4 fender bolts and twist the fender over the tire, put the wheel into place and try to get the bolts in with the tire in place, very tight working space indeed.
How do you guys with 110 tires get this to work?
Might just order two new tires, they are dated to 2005, but are in really good shape, albeit a bit harder than what they should be, but do get softer when warmed up.