Re: Rebuilding the motor
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Land_Shark
- Forum Regular
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2003 3:14 pm
- Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada
Re: Rebuilding the motor
Just a quick question to throw out there regarding putting the motor back together. I'm hoping for some advice as to the proper or best sealants and whatnot to use. The shop manual is a little vague as far as where and when to use additional sealants and whether to use loctite or something similar on particular pieces. If anyone has a run-down on certain procedures to follow with this motor it would be greatly appreciated. Good for future reference for anybody else putting one back together as well.
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sr71cbx
- Power Poster
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- Location: Lake Havasu City, AZ
- Location: Lake Havasu City, AZ
Gasket sealers
Landshark.........
For crankcase halves,use Three Bond 1104 sealer,Kawasaki dealers should sell the stuff,it works well for surfaces that don't use a gasket.Apply it with an acid brush(available at auto parts stores).
For paper gaskets,a thin coat of Gasgacinch(comes in a little metal can with screw-off lid)helps hold them in place and seal them.Apply a thin coat to both gasket and surface to be installed on,then let it dry and stick it on.
For rubber gaskets(such as the infamously overpriced valve cover gasket),install dry,as the rubber will naturally seal up nicely.In the case of the valve cover gasket,glue it to the valve cover with the Gasgacinch,(it is a mild contact cement)then use a tiny bit of silicone sealer on the corners of the round end plugs that sit in the head.
The standard composite head gasket can benefit from a coating of aluminum color header paint,this has actual aluminum powder in the paaint and it helps seal up any oil seepage.Spray KopperKote(Permatex)will work just as well or better,it is a spray adhesive with copper powder in it.
As far as Loctite goes,you shouldn't need much of that stuff if everything is torqued to spec.Use new o-rings wherever possible too.
Upon initial startup time,fill up the engine with oil and motor it over without the sparkplugs in it.This will prime the lubrication system and prevent a "dry" start.Put the plugs in,and light 'er off!!
All this has worked for me over the years,hope this helps.
Take care & ride safe,
---------Mark Miller#0938
For crankcase halves,use Three Bond 1104 sealer,Kawasaki dealers should sell the stuff,it works well for surfaces that don't use a gasket.Apply it with an acid brush(available at auto parts stores).
For paper gaskets,a thin coat of Gasgacinch(comes in a little metal can with screw-off lid)helps hold them in place and seal them.Apply a thin coat to both gasket and surface to be installed on,then let it dry and stick it on.
For rubber gaskets(such as the infamously overpriced valve cover gasket),install dry,as the rubber will naturally seal up nicely.In the case of the valve cover gasket,glue it to the valve cover with the Gasgacinch,(it is a mild contact cement)then use a tiny bit of silicone sealer on the corners of the round end plugs that sit in the head.
The standard composite head gasket can benefit from a coating of aluminum color header paint,this has actual aluminum powder in the paaint and it helps seal up any oil seepage.Spray KopperKote(Permatex)will work just as well or better,it is a spray adhesive with copper powder in it.
As far as Loctite goes,you shouldn't need much of that stuff if everything is torqued to spec.Use new o-rings wherever possible too.
Upon initial startup time,fill up the engine with oil and motor it over without the sparkplugs in it.This will prime the lubrication system and prevent a "dry" start.Put the plugs in,and light 'er off!!
All this has worked for me over the years,hope this helps.
Take care & ride safe,
---------Mark Miller#0938
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Land_Shark
- Forum Regular
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2003 3:14 pm
- Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada
Thanks Mark
Appreciate the advice 
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Land_Shark
- Forum Regular
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2003 3:14 pm
- Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada
Re: Break-in periods
I also heard somewhere that with this motor it's best not to lubricate the bore before dropping the barrels over the pistons. In order for the rings to seat properly?
And that the conrods needs to be torqued down, then left to set for an hour and then re-torqued. Should the crankshaft mains be done this way too?
And that the conrods needs to be torqued down, then left to set for an hour and then re-torqued. Should the crankshaft mains be done this way too?