RaceTech Cartridge Emulators for an Early Model Fork

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NobleHops
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RaceTech Cartridge Emulators for an Early Model Fork

Post by NobleHops »

Edited to add spring info, delete 'progressive' spring description till I verify.

Mopar Tony just jogged my mind with a post in another thread, and I thought the topic deserved it's own thread.
Mopar_Tony_SF1 wrote:A cheaper and easier solution may be to run Race Tech cartridge emulators. I've experienced pretty dramatic improvements with such. Tuning takes some time, but is not difficult.

http://www.racetech.com/HTML_FILES/EMULATORGV.HTML

Image
+1, I've done this mod to several motorcycles with damper rod forks, and found it a big improvement.

If you are interested, call RaceTech and speak to Matt Wiley: They developed an application for the early model fork for my restoration including:

- Shorter, stiffer, fork springs (.90 kg/mm in my case), to make space for the addition of the GoldValves in the stack, and to allow the use of spacers inside the fork to allow me to adjust preload if needed (stock spring length is 545mm, RaceTech spring is 500m)

- Spacers and washers

- A machined aluminum spacer/adapter to adapt the damper rod to the GoldValve

- A specific weight and volume of fork oil

- Drilling and chamfering of the damper rod holes to more or less eliminate it's function and replace it's function with the GoldValve

In this case because they didn't have an application developed I disassembled, cleaned, and powdercoated my fork and sent it to them for the parts and reassembly. They didn't charge me anything special to develop the new application, and as I recall the total bill was $250, including all the new parts (I sent them new seals and wipers), labor, and return shipping.

Here's their 'vintage' page: http://www.racetech.com/page.aspx?id=56&menuid=62

I would definitely suggest a phone call to Matt Wiley, he's knowledgeable and good to deal with: 951.279.6655, Extension 108

N.
Last edited by NobleHops on Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)

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Post by alimey4u2 »

Thanks Nils, I talked to Bill at TIMS & they dropped the line. Does this mean it's available again ?? It is only for the Prolink fork ..Yes ??
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Post by NobleHops »

alimey4u2 wrote:Thanks Nils, I talked to Bill at TIMS & they dropped the line. Does this mean it's available again ?? It is only for the Prolink fork ..Yes ??
I bought my stuff direct from RaceTech, so the answer is 'yes' an application is available, and this was for an early model fork, not the Prolink.

N.
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Post by alimey4u2 »

Thanks Nils, I'll plan to pick a set up when I come to the States again... :thumupp:
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Post by Rick Pope »

I'll be doing this conversion on the pro-link I'm working on. Seems fairly simple.

I put the Gold Valves in the 'Bird, and it made a noticable difference. Susan's SV came that way, sold me first time I rode it.
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Post by Mopar_Tony_SF1 »

+1 on Matt. He was a big help on my current frankenbike vintage mx project. They were real good about expediting the return of parts that were spec'd wrong due to a bunch of my odball parts. I rode this bike for the first time today since the change, and even blasting down the street and jumping curbs, it feels very plush. Feels so good I do not want my competition to know about it!

Are you sure they used progressive fork springs? Race Tech has usually been pretty strong in their preference of single rate fork springs. I got the lectrure from them at a show about this.

Also, ask about the discount code for the "Cycle World Show Special." $50 off emulators and spring combo purchase, plus free freight. Expires in April I think,

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Post by NobleHops »

Mopar_Tony_SF1 wrote:
Are you sure they used progressive fork springs? Race Tech has usually been pretty strong in their preference of single rate fork springs. I got the lectrure from them at a show about this.
You know Tony, I'm not so sure now that you mention it. I just scoured their site and it doesn't say. My spring box says FRSP S2350 090, which translates into 23mm x 500mm x .90 kg/mm. I thought I remembered them saying it was. I'm gonna email Matt and confirm, so I get it right. Stand by!

N.
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Post by Mopar_Tony_SF1 »

Those are singe rate springs, 99% sure.

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Post by Mike Barone #123 »

Nils/All

39mm 1100f forks on the early model was the best handling fix for the Dawgie....adding Gold Valves and the Race Tech fork spring was the second best handling fix. Nose dive on heavy braking is better controlled now vs stock 1100f and initial compression over bumps/cracks in the road surface is improved. Control at speed in undulations on the straights or turns is also improved. Other improvements also.

As noted ...Race Tech fork springs were also installed with the Gold Valves...for the modest cost this should be considered

For those that have 1100f forks ....the Gold Valve over rides all the stock adjustments including the anti dive ...but the result is massive improvement.

I have known Matt Wiley at Race Tech for a while now ...and no one is more helpful. If the phone support area does help you, try talking to him direct. 951.279.6655 x108. If you go to the AMA or Barber Vintage Days he will be there along with other races.

Mike

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

From another post and keep in mind that not everyone has had "wobbling" issues with early models.

Background: A Path To An Early Model Not Wobbling On Straights or in any turns/sweepers
Below is the chronological progression and results to finally making the Ole Dawgie handle with econo changes and finally.... no wobbles on straights or any turns. Keep in mind back then there was no internet proven turn key solutions to make a CBX handle ...not wobble...just an ole guy and ole bike trying to work all this out without spending alot of money and still ending up with a bike that looked like a CBX.

Dawige Handling History.....Timeframe: 1980 to 1990 or so
1. Adjusted air in forks at 1lb pressure increments. Still wobbled

2. Different weight fork oil starting at 5wt....in 2.5wt increments ....to 15wt. Still wobbled and brutal ride with heavier weight fork oil combinations.

3. Installed a steering damper. Still wobbled

4. Installed a fork brace. Still wobbled

5. Replaced rear shocks with Koni adjustables. Installed Progressive front fork springs. 15% better handling...still wobbled.

6. Watermellon on the gas tank at speed. No wobbles

7. Oversized front tire. Less wobbling......but it chewed 3" or so off the front fender tip at speed

8. Latest sport tires (12 sets or prior to item 10). Still wobbled

9. Gusset steering head, reinforced frame backbone, braced stock swing arm. Still wobbled

10. Complete 1100f 39mm complete front using 1100f triple trees 1100f and 1100f back. No wobbles.

Note: Long ago an article in the Xpress stated that 35mm CBX tubes flexed 55% more than 39mm. Massive clue in my view.

Long trip....trial and error over ten plus years, but I finally got to the promised land an no weaving or wobbles at any speed or in the twisties.

2009 Update
For early models my recommendation now is to replace the current 35mm early model fork tubes with a late model forks, 1100f triple trees and Race Tech Gold Valves....go from there. Use everything else you have on the front now.

I used to recommend 1100f full front inc 1100f triple trees only because they were 39mm with all the adjustablity along had anti-dive that really worked and had great success with this myself for 15 years or so. However, 39mm late model forks, 1100f triple trees and the Race Tech Gold Valve did yield a far superior result to the 1100f front with triple trees and is more compliant, less nose dive, less expensive, no technical or fitment issues and finally weighs less........plus the Gold Valve is adjustable. (Note: Use 1100f triple trees. One report of handling problems using late model triple trees has been reported.

Now you do just the late model forks you still end up with your single piston early model calipers and stock rotors, but getting better calipers on the front is a future step....and doing the 39mm and Gold Valve fix now will ensure you live long enough to actually start being worried about better front calipers to be added to this truly superior front fork setup.

Summary
Item 10 above was the only thing that resulted no wobbles, but this plus items 8 & 9....and finally the all important Race Tech Gold Valves and spring kit yielded absolutely the best handling the Dawgie has ever had. 30 years of experimentation and econo parts....but I think it is done now....and the bike still looks like a CBX....and yes...it was well worth the wait.


Hope this helps


Mike
My CBX lives near Harrisburg, Pa USA
Team222 = 2 Ole, 2 Fat and wayyyy 2 Slow

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Post by alimey4u2 »

Thanks Mike.... 8)
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Post by EMS »

Didn't I just read this somewhere else.... :? :?: :?

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Post by Mike Barone #123 »

EMS wrote:Didn't I just read this somewhere else.... :? :?: :?
It happens every once in a while Mike.......two different posts from CBXers where the same answer applies. You understand this ...right?
My CBX lives near Harrisburg, Pa USA
Team222 = 2 Ole, 2 Fat and wayyyy 2 Slow

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Post by EMS »

Mike Barone #123 wrote:
EMS wrote:Didn't I just read this somewhere else.... :? :?: :?
It happens every once in a while Mike.......two different posts from CBXers where the same answer applies. You understand this ...right?
Ahaa! I think I do. Like this??

viewtopic.php?t=5649

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Mike Barone #123
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Post by Mike Barone #123 »

EMS wrote:
Mike Barone #123 wrote:
EMS wrote:Didn't I just read this somewhere else.... :? :?: :?
It happens every once in a while Mike.......two different posts from CBXers where the same answer applies. You understand this ...right?
Ahaa! I think I do. Like this??

viewtopic.php?t=5649

Exactly.......thanks.
My CBX lives near Harrisburg, Pa USA
Team222 = 2 Ole, 2 Fat and wayyyy 2 Slow

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