cb1100F fork change

[johnod]

I've seen many comments regarding a fork change for the 79 cbx, to the 1100f forks. BUT I have seen no tech info on this after searching, does anyone know where I might find this info? Or complete info on any fork upgrade? I've seen numerous pics of cbx with usd forks, but again can find no info on what parts work. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

[alimey4u2]

John, I did a fork upgrade using the Prolink forks in this index....If that's any help but I'm sure you've seen it....

viewtopic.php?t=3256

[johnod]

John, I did a fork upgrade using the Prolink forks in this index....If that's any help but I'm sure you've seen it....

viewtopic.php?t=3256

Thanks for the reply
How did you like it?, Improved? Did the rake trail thing rear it's ugly head, per the first few replys in that thread? I'm trying to get all the info i can before spending money to go in one direction.

[alimey4u2]

John, I did a fork upgrade using the Prolink forks in this index....If that's any help but I'm sure you've seen it....

viewtopic.php?t=3256

Thanks for the reply
How did you like it?, Improved? Did the rake trail thing rear it's ugly head, per the first few replys in that thread? I'm trying to get all the info i can before spending money to go in one direction.

I do like the front end feel now, I now know what the front end is doing. Improvement ?..Yes. Would I do it all again ?..Yes
Don't forget the front fork is only part of the equation. Don't spend all your money up there without doing other modifications. Think of it more as part of a total package... OH! By the way, it can become endless...

[johnod]

I do like the front end feel now, I now know what the front end is doing. Improvement ?..Yes. Would I do it all again ?..Yes
Don't forget the front fork is only part of the equation. Don't spend all your money up there without doing other modifications. Think of it more as part of a total package... OH! By the way, it can become endless... [/quote]

Thanks for the reply I appreciate it
I read thru the thread about your fork change. So you used the prolink front end, What triple trees/yoke did you end up using, and what at the brakes wheel end? I saw some pics of your bike it looks real nice i do like that red colour, mine is silver, not as flashy.
What other mods have you ended up doing?
Thanks again.

[alimey4u2]

So you used the prolink front end, What triple trees/yoke did you end up using,

Prolink triple tree with handlebars from a Honda Bol d'Or ... I already had the sportskit fitted. Handlebars fitted perfectly, even the little bosses lined up...

and what at the brakes wheel end?

Those are Performance Machine, sadly no longer available....

What other mods have you ended up doing?

Lots more to the handling, Dymag wheels, CalFab swinging arm & Ohlin shocks...

[Don]

There are plenty of early models running around with ProLink forks largely because they are they correct length and the 39mm tubes really make a difference in how it handles. Add the 1100F rear end (swingarm, shocks, brakes and chain guard) and you've got a great riding bike - Add the 1100F wheels front and rear if you like and you can run a slightly wider tire

The US version 1100F forks are shorter than the early model CBX forks, so if you use those you'll need either a different handlebar setup or a set of Canadian model 1100F forks which are longer to get the ride height correct - You probably don't want to lower the front end of an early model by using forks which are too short

Don

[Mopar_Tony_SF1]

A cheaper and easier solution may be to run Race Tech cartridge emulators. I've experienced pretty dramatic improvements with such. Tuning takes some time, but is not difficult.

http://www.racetech.com/HTML_FILES/EMULATORGV.HTML

[johnod]

A cheaper and easier solution may be to run Race Tech cartridge emulators. I've experienced pretty dramatic improvements with such. Tuning takes some time, but is not difficult.

http://www.racetech.com/HTML_FILES/EMULATORGV.HTML

Is this with the 35mm stock forks?

[Mike Barone #123]

Hi John.....

I did an article on the 1100f front and back end transplant for the CBX. Tom Neimeyer has it on his web site. I will pm him and ask if he can put the link on this post for you.

Mike


From another post and keep in mind that not everyone has had "wobbling" issues with early models.

Background: A Path To An Early Model Not Wobbling On Straights or in any turns/sweepers
Below is the chronological progression and results to finally making the Ole Dawgie handle with econo changes and finally.... no wobbles on straights or any turns. Keep in mind back then there was no internet proven turn key solutions to make a CBX handle ...not wobble...just an ole guy and ole bike trying to work all this out without spending alot of money and still ending up with a bike that looked like a CBX.

Dawige Handling History.....Timeframe: 1980 to 1990 or so
1. Adjusted air in forks at 1lb pressure increments. Still wobbled

2. Different weight fork oil starting at 5wt....in 2.5wt increments ....to 15wt. Still wobbled and brutal ride with heavier weight fork oil combinations.

3. Installed a steering damper. Still wobbled

4. Installed a fork brace. Still wobbled

5. Replaced rear shocks with Koni adjustables. Installed Progressive front fork springs. 15% better handling...still wobbled.

6. Watermellon on the gas tank at speed. No wobbles

7. Oversized front tire. Less wobbling......but it chewed 3" or so off the front fender tip at speed

8. Latest sport tires (12 sets or prior to item 10). Still wobbled

9. Gusset steering head, reinforced frame backbone, braced stock swing arm. Still wobbled

10. Complete 1100f 39mm complete front using 1100f triple trees 1100f and 1100f back. No wobbles.

Note: Long ago an article in the Xpress stated that 35mm CBX tubes flexed 55% more than 39mm. Massive clue in my view.

Long trip....trial and error over ten plus years, but I finally got to the promised land an no weaving or wobbles at any speed or in the twisties.

2009 Update
For early models my recommendation now is to replace the current 35mm early model fork tubes with a late model forks, 1100f triple trees and Race Tech Gold Valves....go from there. Use everything else you have on the front now.

I used to recommend 1100f full front inc 1100f triple trees only because they were 39mm with all the adjustablity along had anti-dive that really worked and had great success with this myself for 15 years or so. However, 39mm late model forks, 1100f triple trees and the Race Tech Gold Valve did yield a far superior result to the 1100f front with triple trees and is more compliant, less nose dive, less expensive, no technical or fitment issues and finally weighs less........plus the Gold Valve is adjustable. (Note: Use 1100f triple trees. One report of handling problems using late model triple trees has been reported.

Now you do just the late model forks you still end up with your single piston early model calipers and stock rotors, but getting better calipers on the front is a future step....and doing the 39mm and Gold Valve fix now will ensure you live long enough to actually start being worried about better front calipers to be added to this truly superior front fork setup.

Summary
Item 10 above was the only thing that resulted no wobbles, but this plus items 8 & 9....and finally the all important Race Tech Gold Valves and spring kit yielded absolutely the best handling the Dawgie has ever had. 30 years of experimentation and econo parts....but I think it is done now....and the bike still looks like a CBX....and yes...it was well worth the wait.


Hope this helps


Mike

[johnod]

Hi John.....

I did an article on the 1100f front and back end transplant for the CBX. Tom Neimeyer has it on his web site. I will pm him and ask if he can put the link on this post for you.

Mike


From another post and keep in mind that not everyone has had "wobbling" issues with early models.

Background: A Path To An Early Model Not Wobbling On Straights or in any turns/sweepers
Below is the chronological progression and results to finally making the Ole Dawgie handle with econo changes and finally.... no wobbles on straights or any turns. Keep in mind back then there was no internet proven turn key solutions to make a CBX handle ...not wobble...just an ole guy and ole bike trying to work all this out without spending alot of money and still ending up with a bike that looked like a CBX.

Dawige Handling History.....Timeframe: 1980 to 1990 or so
1. Adjusted air in forks at 1lb pressure increments. Still wobbled

2. Different weight fork oil starting at 5wt....in 2.5wt increments ....to 15wt. Still wobbled and brutal ride with heavier weight fork oil combinations.

3. Installed a steering damper. Still wobbled

4. Installed a fork brace. Still wobbled

5. Replaced rear shocks with Koni adjustables. Installed Progressive front fork springs. 15% better handling...still wobbled.

6. Watermellon on the gas tank at speed. No wobbles

7. Oversized front tire. Less wobbling......but it chewed 3" or so off the front fender tip at speed

8. Latest sport tires (12 sets or prior to item 10). Still wobbled

9. Gusset steering head, reinforced frame backbone, braced stock swing arm. Still wobbled

10. Complete 1100f 39mm complete front using 1100f triple trees 1100f and 1100f back. No wobbles.

Note: Long ago an article in the Xpress stated that 35mm CBX tubes flexed 55% more than 39mm. Massive clue in my view.

Long trip....trial and error over ten plus years, but I finally got to the promised land an no weaving or wobbles at any speed or in the twisties.

2009 Update
For early models my recommendation now is to replace the current 35mm early model fork tubes with a late model forks, 1100f triple trees and Race Tech Gold Valves....go from there. Use everything else you have on the front now.

I used to recommend 1100f full front inc 1100f triple trees only because they were 39mm with all the adjustablity along had anti-dive that really worked and had great success with this myself for 15 years or so. However, 39mm late model forks, 1100f triple trees and the Race Tech Gold Valve did yield a far superior result to the 1100f front with triple trees and is more compliant, less nose dive, less expensive, no technical or fitment issues and finally weighs less........plus the Gold Valve is adjustable. (Note: Use 1100f triple trees. One report of handling problems using late model triple trees has been reported.

Now you do just the late model forks you still end up with your single piston early model calipers and stock rotors, but getting better calipers on the front is a future step....and doing the 39mm and Gold Valve fix now will ensure you live long enough to actually start being worried about better front calipers to be added to this truly superior front fork setup.

Summary
Item 10 above was the only thing that resulted no wobbles, but this plus items 8 & 9....and finally the all important Race Tech Gold Valves and spring kit yielded absolutely the best handling the Dawgie has ever had. 30 years of experimentation and econo parts....but I think it is done now....and the bike still looks like a CBX....and yes...it was well worth the wait.


Hope this helps


Mike

Thanks Mike, for the info here, all sounds good to me. I've emailed back and forth with Tom who has given me some good advise and ideas. So I've settled on doing a later cbx fork upgrade, as easiest and effective. I'm curious as to what /why the 1100f trees as opposed to the seemingly obvious late cbx trees? Can you explain that to me?

thanks

John

[Don]

I suspect Mike used the 1100F trees because he bought a complete package . . . . but when upgrading an early model to 39mm the obvious choice is to use the ProKink setup as it allows you to still mount the CBX instrument opackage in the correct location

Even if you decide on the RaceTech cartridges I would still upgrade to 39mm first and then modify from there

If you can locate a Canadian 1100F swetup, mounting those using the ProLink tripletrees would be a good setup . . . . the 1100F forks with the Trac system would be a huge improvement over what you have now - Get the 1100F brake package with it if you can

Don

[Mike Barone #123]

I suspect Mike used the 1100F trees because he bought a complete package . . . . but when upgrading an early model to 39mm the obvious choice is to use the ProKink setup as it allows you to still mount the CBX instrument opackage in the correct location

Even if you decide on the RaceTech cartridges I would still upgrade to 39mm first and then modify from there

If you can locate a Canadian 1100F swetup, mounting those using the ProLink tripletrees would be a good setup . . . . the 1100F forks with the Trac system would be a huge improvement over what you have now - Get the 1100F brake package with it if you can

Don

Agree...good points Don.

John ...the USA 1100f tubes are shorter than the CBX tubes because the USA 1100f had handlebars vs clips. Fitting the USA 1100f front as is will lower the front. Maybe someone can measure the diff up for you.

I bought a set of Canadian 1100f tubes which were same length as the CBX and put these on the 1100f USA lowers for the Dawgie to keep the geometry front and back as close to stock as possible when I did all of this long ago and as such avoid too many variables.

There were quite a few CBXs with the shorter USA 1100f fronts as is back then, but I never rode one or was ever on a ride with anyone that had this setup that I can recall.... so I can not comment on how it all works out or if there were ground clearance problems.


Mike

[barryadam]

I did an article on the 1100f front and back end transplant for the CBX. Tom Neimeyer has it on his web site. I will pm him and ask if he can put the link on this post for you.
Mike

Mike / Tom,

Can you please provide a link...

Thanks,

Barry

[NobleHops]

I did an article on the 1100f front and back end transplant for the CBX. Tom Neimeyer has it on his web site. I will pm him and ask if he can put the link on this post for you.
Mike

Mike / Tom,

Can you please provide a link...

Thanks,

Barry

Presto

http://www.losleos.com/cbxtips/CBXMenu.htm

N.