No power when key is turned on


daves79x
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by daves79x »

Looking good! Yes, we got about 4 inches of heavy wet snow yesterday.

Dave

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Larry Zimmer »

Dave -- isn't life wonderful in this global warming?! We only got 2, here. Looking for outriggers for the X.
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Bill Kemp
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Well. I fully cleaned all the carb parts. Used my pin vice and small drill bits to clean out the emulsion tube holes and got the main jets unclogged as well.

Once I get my replacement O rings, gasket and other carb parts I can put it all back together.
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Last edited by Bill Kemp on Tue Apr 19, 2022 3:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Now that the carb parts are all clean I decided to take the brakes all apart to get ready for the rebuild. Nice to get a bike going but it sure helps to be able to stop

The brake pistons all look pretty nice as do the calipers. They can be cleaned up.

However the front and rear master cylinders need a rebuild badly.

What chemicals do you guys prefer to clean the master cylinders with. I scraped out the old dried up stuff but still need to fully disassembled them for a proper rebuild.

Let me know your thoughts.

Bill
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by NobleHops »

Hey Bill,

That's pretty typical condition when these things are sat. Buncha tips in no particular order:

The trick is the extraction of the circlips, particularly on the front. You'll pull out the rubber boot on the front and think you're ready to extract the circlip, but what's not obvious is that the boot was molded around a ring that's still in there. you need to fish that out.

I like to pressure wash these to remove the mire, and that will often unstick the circlips. We vapor blast these things, you could glass-bead them lightly too if you have access to a cabinet, that's good prep for a repaint, just stay out of the bores and mask the sealing surface for the banjo sealing washer before you paint too.

MotionPro sells a set of pliers optimized for the front MC, use it only for that as it is fragile.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0279

K&L rebuild kits are recommended, and the hot tip is that the kit for the twin-shock bike includes the plunger rod that screws into the clevis.

The cup on the side of the rear MC has an oring in an odd size - get the Honda part there too.

You want to pluck a strand from a wire brush and use it to clean the smaller of the two orifices, that's the return, prone to clogging.

Tourmaster reservoir kits include the oring for the front reservoir. Lube that oring lightly with silicone grease and the front lip of the reservoir too, that will ease installation and prevent the oring from getting dislodged. Bad consequences there, DAMHIK.

We like to lightly hone the bores with a ball hone using WD40 as lubricant.

Good old soapy water is recommended as a cleaner before reassembly.

WRT your calipers, IMHO the only way to get the piston seal grooves totally clean is with a wire wheel on a Dremel. Opinions vary there.

N.
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Question:

Do you guys order a new rebuild kit for the front and rear master cylinders or do you just clean them and reuse the parts.

Not to be cheap but they want $100 for a genuine Honda one up here in Canada and that is just for the front. Another $94 for the rear which one is on backorder

Let me know what you guys do

Thanks

Bill

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by JoeInTUS »

You need the rebuild kits. We have used dozens of K&L kits. They work fine and are much cheaper than Honda.

Also Parts Unlimited sells master rebuild kits under their house brand for the front of twin shock bikes and front and rear of pro-link bikes. These kits are made by Nissin and are of good quality. Similar pricing to K&L. I have used them on CBXs and on my Gold Wing.

You need OEM for the o-rings for the master cylinder reservoirs. They have to be made of the correct material so that the brake fluid does not attack them.
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Thanks for the info. Appreciate it

Bill

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by JoeInTUS »

Bill

Did you remove the small washer and o-ring above the mixture screw spring? These typically do not fall out on their own and can be a PITA to remove. I ask because I did not see them in your photos. Pretty sure the Randakk kit comes with replacements.
Mixture Screws.jpg
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Yes I removed the washers. They were still in the bins that I have the carbs in.

I have 6 separate bins. One for each carb and all the parts that come out of each carb get put into its own bin.

I am kind of fussy and like to put the carbs back together with the parts that came out of them.

Thanks for pointing it out though.

If you look at the photo on the bottom right corner you will see the carb 6 mixture screw that has the broken tip that was stuck in the carb when I took it out. It fell out when it was being cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner

😩😩😩
Last edited by Bill Kemp on Tue Apr 19, 2022 8:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

I will be replacing all the O rings when I get the kit as well

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

I just ordered the K&L brake rebuild kits for the front and rear master cylinder as well as the Carb Air T’s that are now back in stock.

I went and bought a brake bleeder as well after reading all the issues with trying to get the air bubbles out of the lines.

I got all that stuff from Performance CBX

Bill

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by steve murdoch icoa #5322 »

No doubt you are finding when ordering parts from the States that the shipping at times can be pricey.
If possible ask the vendor to avoid using UPS. Duty and brokerage fees occur much more frequently with them. I was recently stung with a $53.00 charge on a $100.00 valued delivery.

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Thanks for the info on shipping. Yes we get killed on shipping by UPS. My daughter ordered something and they decided to charge her all sorts of brokerage charges and import fees.

I called them up and advised them they had no right to charge these fees as I was going to do the import paperwork myself. They were stumped because I knew that by LAW they have to ask you to act as a broker on your behalf. If they don't ask you can refuse to pay the brokerage fee if you state you were going to do the paperwork to clear the item yourself. It is actually very easy to do by the way. As a result they had to return the $100 fees they charged her.

Think if it. If they bring 1,000,000 parcels a year into Canada or the US and charge people a $50 brokerage fee that is $50,000,000 extra they make per year on top of the money they make for charging you shipping. I am sure that I am estimating the number of parcels on the very low side as well.

You have to fight with them all the time so you don't get ripped off.

$$$$$$$$

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