No power when key is turned on


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shiskowd
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by shiskowd »

This one posted fine, wondering if we needing to send out a search team to see if you were OK as its been a while!
2022 KTM 890R, 1982 Pro-Link, 1979 CBX 'Z, 1975 Moto Guzzi 850T
Long Sleeping '79 CBX Restoration > viewtopic.php?f=102&t=11699

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Jeff Bennetts »

shiskowd wrote:
Sat Apr 16, 2022 6:40 pm
This one posted fine, wondering if we needing to send out a search team to see if you were OK as its been a while!
I started a new medication and it’s been kicking my butt, terrible vertigo and nausea the past couple weeks, I wouldn’t wish it on my worst enemy.

Sorry for the thread pirate.

I’ll try to save it, if you click on the YouTube vid I posted above (not mine) along with Dave’s narrative you’ll get the jest of removing the jet, the collared spacer the guy uses is a smart move! but don’t stab yourself with a screwdriver, put your rack of carbs in a vice or squeeze the jet with a pair of pliers!

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Thanks. I looked at that video and laughed at the guy trying to stab himself.

I was cutting a wire with an exacto knife years ago very lazy like him and ended up at the hospital for 6 stitches in my thumb

Learned my lesson that day

😩😩😩
Last edited by Bill Kemp on Sat Apr 16, 2022 7:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

The joint rubbers seem fine to me as well as the carb boots. They still seem soft and supple.

Would you recommend replacing the joint rubbers and the boots?

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by jt »

This is what I use, The Hanson drill bit & Tap was from Home Depot I think, The The Blue 4-40 tap was from the Hobby shop.
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by jt »

Bill Kemp wrote:
Sat Apr 16, 2022 7:39 pm
The joint rubbers seem fine to me as well as the carb boots. They still seem soft and supple.

Would you recommend replacing the joint rubbers and the boots?
A little tip on rubber parts, not sure how long it last, but I removed a set of the throttle joint covers in one piece but they were stiff, so much that I though if I tried to squeeze them harder they would break. So I smeared them with Vaseline and put them in a sealed baggie covered with more Vaseline and let them set for several days. They came out soft and supple.
But I still bought new ones !!!

I did my Choke shaft rubbers as well. Seems to also bring back the "Black " on the handlebar switches as well but it is messy, LOL !.

If your talking about the Carb Insulators (boots) to the Head, I would. But I'll let the experts chime in.

Do it all once and be done for a good while !
JT In Texas

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by daves79x »

If you got the joints apart without the rubbers falling apart, you might be able to re-use them. Just heat them up before installing the joints. But if one breaks, you're kind of SOL if you don't have a replacement set there.

On a low-mile bike from the far North, I'd say your intake rubbers are fine. They were likely never subjected to extreme heat. Just warm them up with a heat gun and grease them a bit.

Dave

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Thanks

I have ordered the set of O rings from Randakks like everyone suggested but it does not come with those joint rubbers I think you ar talking about. Mine look great as do the carb boots that are between the carbs and the engine.

I will do a really close inspection of them today as well as tap out and remove the pressed in jet everyone is saying MUST be removed. I will post some pictures of mine before I clean them for all to see out of interest.

I also will put in the POR15 cleaner today into the tank to clean that baby up. It sure would be nice for it to look as nice on the outside.

A silly question but when I removed the petcock it was really sticky and there was no screen on it like the 750 bike I have. Is it just stuck in there or is there no screen on the petcock tube that goes into the tank.

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Question:

"Automatic Fuel Vacuum pump on top of the carbs that allows fuel from petcock/Tank to the carbs."

Do you guys take them all apart clean them and put new parts in them.

I was just going to hook up a fuel line and use the vacuum hose to draw fuel thought it to see if I works and can glean whatever old gas might be in there.

I have not opened mine up as I thought I would get your expert opinions on this first. It appears looks as though it might use a rubber pump like the accelerator pump or the air cut but when I look at a parts list it only shows that you have to replace the whole part as a complete unit other than the hoses.

I sure hope parts are available for it if required.

This forum has been a great help to me. Every bike is different and there are experts on certain bikes that are very kind in passing on their knowledge to everyone.

It is greatly appreciated in case not enough folks let you know that.

Thanks again

Bill Kemp
Last edited by Bill Kemp on Sun Apr 17, 2022 1:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by NobleHops »

Bill, it’s common for the petcock screen to remain stuck in the tank, welded into the bung by the tarry gas residue. Once you’re certain things are inert, pour some very hot water on it, and I’ve had luck using a drill bit that’s a snug fit to insert a half inch and then use as a an exctractor, with sideways pressure to get a bite in the plastic. Use a tap handle and see if you can twist/work it out. It installs with an oring on the petcock, needed.
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Thanks for the tip:

I just looked at the parts schematic from CMNSL and saw that it had a screen.

Unfortunately for me all the stores are closed today so I can't get the POR15 to clean the tank out.

I also need a proper screw to match up to my 4-40 tap and a nice brass punch to reinstall the pressed in jets.

I guess it will all have to wait until tomorrow.

I can get the vinegar out of the tank today and flush it and out and pour some marvel mystery oil in to prevent any flash rusting while I wait for the POR15. I don't like leaving vinegar in for more than a day.

I can always start to pull all the brake calipers apart in the meantime to keep busy.

Before my wife finds something for me to do. 🤠🤠🤠

Bill

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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by NobleHops »

Dave’s tip on cleaning the pressed-in jets is a good one - heat them to red hot and let them cool, and quite a lot of the debris will just blow away.

Good luck, and keep a low profile!
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Bill Kemp »

Well guys:

I emptied the vinegar out of my tank a few minutes ago and flushed it out with water

Then I put marvel mystery oil (2/3 bottle) into the tank and swished it around. I am leaving it in the tank until I get the POR15 stuff tomorrow. I will swish it around a number of times to keep things moist of oil until tomorrow.

My heart sank as I emptied the tank out as I saw a ton of brown crap come out. I thought it was rust but after further examination it is just appears to be really old gas that has been dried up.

The metal that I can see appears ok but once I am done with the POR15 I will buy a scope to inspect the interior of the tank for any issues

Here is a photo of the old brown crusty and gooey stuff

Bill
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by NobleHops »

Pretty typical. Not to worry, most of the time the tanks are still solid, I’ve cleaned out tons. Do you use Facebook, Bill? I did a pretty exhaustive tank clean-out tutorial there. Use the hottest water you can create. A 90-degree tip on a pressure washer can really speed that project up too.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 021&type=3
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Re: No power when key is turned on

Post by Jeff Bennetts »

If you see some minor rust in the tank you can use Por 15 metal prep to stop and stabilize it. Go to their website and search out their prep videos, their customer tech line is very good also.

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