The International CBX Owners Association

I have been looking at bronze sintered plates with grooves.
They are just in various agricultural small clutches.
Raybestos makes them .
Problem is to find them with roughly the correct dimensions. Sintered bronze is very good clutch material running in oil.

Why did Honda not go with a direct drive from countershaft to alternator?

Paul Van Oss wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 27, 2022 8:34 am

Why did Honda not go with a direct drive from countershaft to alternator?

Direct drive wouldn't allow such a "snappy" quick rev, and would act as a flywheel. Plus, the secondary shaft and chain would have to be much heavier.

What Rick said, plus:
As a result, the steel to steel "coupler" fails/slips when the alternator is trying to make electricity.
The Denso/Kawasaki conversions solve all these issues. They don't flywheel the motor, due to the low, lighter, smaller, rotating mass and makes ample power at idle and throughout the entire RPM range while the mini cush drive provides silent, positive engagement. No more mysterious banging noises.

Would oil temperature be lower with The Denso system be lower because no heat build between clutch plates?
Is the orfice still supplying oil to the cavity when installing the Denso system?

Is crankshaft rpm ratio with secondary shaft rpm 1:1?
Example if the crankshaft turns 4000rpm the secondary shaft turns also 4000 rpm?

Yes.

Dave

Paul Van Oss wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 27, 2022 10:50 am

Would oil temperature be lower with The Denso system be lower because no heat build between clutch plates?
Is the orfice still supplying oil to the cavity when installing the Denso system?

Oil temp is mainly attributed to the oil in the cylinder head transfering combustion chamber heat and how well the oil cooler can operate. Outside air temp and airflow across the head and cylinder fins factor in too.
What relatively little heat is created at the stock alternator coupler doesn't really affect much.
The primary shaft that drives the alternator is 1:1 with the crank because on the other end, it's making the ignition system work.
The oil that exits the orifice on the alternator side, also lubricates the cush rubbers for the alternator conversions.
(Old photo for reference, I no longer make these).

Larry Zimmer. You make a good point if any of the moly grease applied to alternator clutch plates got into the engine oil where it could cause engine clutch plate issues. Seems to me the alternator shaft seal would prevent this.

Above said, there's no need to apply anything more than a VERY thin coating of moly paste grease on the alternator clutch plates because the slightest bit of moly adheres permanently to clean new metal surfaces. Any moly grease more than this will simply be a mess inside the alternator clutch cavity.

Nils......Great article you did on Facebook. Excellent pics with excellent comments. Spot on.

Thanks guys for all your information and input!