Looks like i'm going with a kerker 6.1 header with 2 1/2 cone , stage 3 dyno jet kit ...What about the filters? i see on some web sites that the K&N filters are no longer available.. Is this true? IF not where can i get them.. Are the carbs necks 54 MM if so the are some on Ebay that i can get at a good price..Not K&N filters but look the same..
I know the 6 into 1 header with the 2 1/2 out let is loud but i don't care i like it loud!! Here in Mid FL all the bikes run open headers and the cops don't ticket you .. they call the noise a saftey item .. Meaning that people in cars can hear you coming ... sounds nuts does it not.. but i have asked more than one cop and they all say them same thing...
Bike night here draws 200 to 300 bikes all with open pipes and the cops are there doing traffic controll and ticket no one unless you are speeding ..Lee P/S thanks Mike for the password help , it's working great..Lee..
I bought some Emgo individual filters. They have chrome end caps and look pretty good. Don`t have them on the bike as yet but I could E you a pic of them if you wish. They were about $120-00 canadian.
Just my 2 cents on individual filters. As you may know the carb. rack on the CBX is curved [almost V shaped ] which can make using off the shelf UNI , EMGO and even generic K&N individual filters difficult if not impossible to use. Generally the outer two filters on each side are not the problem however the center two are. When trying to mount the center two your must fight the curve of the carb rack which results in the center two filters hitting each other making installation a “challenge??? The original K&N set up included a recessed two carb to one filter deal which addressed this issue. In addition the outer two carb filters were angled as well. A fellow CBX Club member used the individual UNI filters and was able to mount the center two by cutting off some of the excess rubber on the base of the filter. He had to make further cuts as the set up was ocassionally fouling his choke cable and or throttle cable in the end it worked. I have seen in the past the UNI filters with the special 2 into one center set up on Ebay however not recently. I have a set of the EMGO filters that on first pass seem like a no go. Even the outer filters hit. I’m sure this can be overcome however it qualifies as a winter project not a bolt on. Just a note on performance, we used to dyno our bikes once or twice a year to see what does what.. With my completely stock 82 CBX my best run was a clean 86 HP. After a stage one rejet and a K&N drop in filter the result was a clean 92 hp. Next came the Kerker headers, Dyna Ignition System, K&N individual filters with a stage 3 kit. The bike never ran so good, the result 84 hp , 2 hp less than stock, 8 hp less than stage one with a drop in filter. All runs were corrected to whatever they correct them to on the same dyno with the same operator etc. There is a lesson here somewhere.
Rich Pleines wrote:Just my 2 cents on individual filters. As you may know the carb. rack on the CBX is curved [almost V shaped ] which can make using off the shelf UNI , EMGO and even generic K&N individual filters difficult if not impossible to use. Generally the outer two filters on each side are not the problem however the center two are. When trying to mount the center two your must fight the curve of the carb rack which results in the center two filters hitting each other making installation a “challenge??? The original K&N set up included a recessed two carb to one filter deal which addressed this issue. In addition the outer two carb filters were angled as well. A fellow CBX Club member used the individual UNI filters and was able to mount the center two by cutting off some of the excess rubber on the base of the filter. He had to make further cuts as the set up was ocassionally fouling his choke cable and or throttle cable in the end it worked. I have seen in the past the UNI filters with the special 2 into one center set up on Ebay however not recently. I have a set of the EMGO filters that on first pass seem like a no go. Even the outer filters hit. I’m sure this can be overcome however it qualifies as a winter project not a bolt on. Just a note on performance, we used to dyno our bikes once or twice a year to see what does what.. With my completely stock 82 CBX my best run was a clean 86 HP. After a stage one rejet and a K&N drop in filter the result was a clean 92 hp. Next came the Kerker headers, Dyna Ignition System, K&N individual filters with a stage 3 kit. The bike never ran so good, the result 84 hp , 2 hp less than stock, 8 hp less than stage one with a drop in filter. All runs were corrected to whatever they correct them to on the same dyno with the same operator etc. There is a lesson here somewhere.
Rich
Hi Rich well i have a drop in K&N now and 6 into 2 kerker , what jets or carb work is done is unknown to me at this point ... I like the sound of the 6 to 1 pipe better so i know i'm going kerker 6.1 pipe ..The reason i would like to run K&N individual filters is and we all know this one it's easy to get the carbs off ... I found that tim's cbx has the K&N kit , it's the kit that has the two center carbs as one filter ...After your statement on the drop in filter making 92 HP i may have to rethink that one ..Was your 92 hp dyno pull made with 6 into2 or 6 to1 pipe? thanks Lee..
Lee, I run the K&N set up on my two CBX"s. One with the Kerker 6 into two, and the other a Hindle 6 into two. I like [love] the look of the individual filters and it has allowed me to hide air horns behind the side covers as well. As far as the 92 HP is concerned, it was with a "stock" pipe. Looks to me that outside of a little breathing problem the Honda Engineers knew what they were doing. Rich
After 25 yrs of fooling around with these things including many dyno runs, I have found the 6 into 2 configuration the best for horsepower, street and strip.
The Hindle and the old style Kerker are neck in neck at the top.
The Bassani 6 into 1 was number 3 with the power on top and loud as hell.
The stock pipes make good power too but are double walled and way a ton.
Jeff Bennetts wrote:After 25 yrs of fooling around with these things including many dyno runs, I have found the 6 into 2 configuration the best for horsepower, street and strip.
The Hindle and the old style Kerker are neck in neck at the top.
The Bassani 6 into 1 was number 3 with the power on top and loud as hell.
The stock pipes make good power too but are double walled and way a ton.
jb
Thanks Jeff , can you tell me what filter and jet set up you used with the 6 to2 pipe that made good power.. It would be cheaper for me not to have to buy and new pipe seeing that i allready have the kerker 6 into 2 pipe .. Thanks Lee..
Rich Pleines wrote:Lee, I run the K&N set up on my two CBX"s. One with the Kerker 6 into two, and the other a Hindle 6 into two. I like [love] the look of the individual filters and it has allowed me to hide air horns behind the side covers as well. As far as the 92 HP is concerned, it was with a "stock" pipe. Looks to me that outside of a little breathing problem the Honda Engineers knew what they were doing. Rich
Rich thanks ...92 hp on the factory pipes! Rich i beleave you, back in 79 80 thats all i had was stock pipes and no one could get near me ... Even my friend with his new GS1100 .But he weighted in at 230 pounds and i was only 130 pounds ..
I'd go with the Stage One, but save yourself some money and do it like this.
1. Shim the needles in your carb slides 20 to 30 thousands using a small nylon washer, there is a screw cap inside the slide and the needle is under it.
Once you add the shim the needle will not float anymore because the screw cap will hit it when tightened, so I just over wrap the screw cap with teflon tape and tighten the screw cap until the needle stops floating then back the screw cap out until the needle floats.
2. Make sure your accelerator pump is working on the carb set.
3. Back out the mixture screws 2 1/2 from seat.
4. Use a single K&N replacement air filter.
5. In the old days when I didn't know any better I'd also open up the intake opening on the top of the airbox lid but I don't know if many extras are out there nowadays.
5. In the old days when I didn't know any better I'd also open up the intake opening on the top of the airbox lid but I don't know if many extras are out there nowadays.
jb
I run without the lid on the airbox, K&N drop-in. No problems so far w/ over 30k miles.
Jim Zemanek has am idividual filter set he sells, I think it's a copy of the K&N. He's at <Jimmizee@aol.com>. Good guy to deal with. He owns/operates CincyCycles East in Amelia. OH, just east of Cincinnati.
Rick Pope
Either garage is too small or we have too many bikes. Or Momma's car needs to go outside.
Ok Guy's , here's my .02 worth. On the numerous dyno runs that I have been involved in with tuning several GL 1000's, Valkeries and my 80 "X" the one thing taht always surfaces is the fact that Honda jets their carbs the same to run in the 15-15.5 - 1 A/F at idle and low speed for emissions but then the main jet goes pig rich in the 10-11 to 1 A/F ratio range then we add the dynojet kits which add even more fuel so that we now don't need much choke and get 25mpg's why not save the dynojet money and just run with the choke on,,,same effect. Seriously my 80 when it had the Alphabet 6-1, a drop-in K+N, DJet stage 1 kit and Dyna coils ended up making the best power with a 98 main jet, it ran at 13.6-1a/f and got high 40's to low 50's, it was bitchy when cold but the jetting was spot on like it should be. The stage 3 kit recommends a 122 main jet and mine currently is running 107's with the K+N individuals but could probably go to 105's because it's still a little rich.
The jetting really affects the power output and it don't take much jetting to lose power. The bad thing is that you really can't jet it properly w/o a Lamda sensor on the dyno in your (bikes) tailpipe. Once you are jetted right though you will notice weather changes and such in how the bike runs, this is why everyone jets them rich because they just run fat and you don't notice any changes. Also keep in mind that idle jet settings and the float levels also have an affect on the overall jetting as well.
One other thing while I'm up here on my pulpit, I just checked my carb balance gauge set to an instrumentation standard and was totally surprised in that after setting all of the zero's the same the gauges were off 1-1.5 mm hg at 13 inches, makes it kinda hard to balance them all the same when the gauges suck, just an fyi. If you can set these with a common vacuum source so they're all the same before starting you will do yourself a huge favor. I'll get down and shutup now
passx (steve) why use vac gages? are not the carb sticks better? we used them at our honda shop and seems to work well .. you may use a diff term for the like mercury sticks...Lee..
, 2 hp less than stock, 8 hp less than stage one with a drop in filter. All runs were corrected to whatever they correct them to on the same dyno with the same operator etc. There is a lesson here somewhere. 
Looks to me that outside of a little breathing problem the Honda Engineers knew what they were doing. Rich
