1979 CBX 1000Z - Time to put it back together...

[jnnngs]

Some success today.

Cleaned float valves, got the two where the spring was stuck moving, checked float heights and then filled with petrol...

This time, a minor drip or two coming from #6 overflow otherwise OK so pretty pleased!

All the float valves have very tired springs, some better than others so have ordered 6 new ones. Once I get them, that will hopefully sort of carb #6.

On the accelerator jets, "signs of life" on all of them. But doesn't seem a consistent jet across the 6 when opening the throttle by hand. Probably need to have another go cleaning them at some point.

On setting float heights, is setting them to 15.5mm effectively having the float parallel to the carb body/base? The float has a ridge running along the side, so just wondering if that should be parallel to the carb base.

and, Phil has posted the alternator spring to me - Thanks Phil!

Paul.

[daves79x]

Floats are OK. Actually 15.5mm is SLIGHTLY higher than parallel, but yours are just fine.

Dave

[jnnngs]

Chassis / Cycle Parts

Everything now ready to put it back together:

DSC04871.JPG

I had the chassis / cycle parts painted rather than powder coated. Most parts were gloss, had the fork bottoms in satin finish. Didn't get a few parts painted as they were in pretty good condition - they may not look so good against all the new paint tho'!

After blasting, there were a few (minor) holes in the chassis where water had been collecting which needed to be welded. Also, showed that the centre stand had been broken and badly repaired - many thanks to Dave Peters (UKCBXclub) who sorted that out for me.

For those in the UK, painting was done by R.D Cox (Reading), and cost around £250.

Will start re-assembly over the next few days.

Paul.

[EMS]

Paul: Great job! That's what we like to see! A CBX brought back to life.
I don't know how much you are into "original" but now is the ideal time to get rid of that inferior swingarm!

[jnnngs]

An update on where I am with this.

Got the new float valves (from pjmmotorsports - thanks for the link Dave), installed them and no leaks. Think I am good to go with the carbs.

Bike slowly coming together:

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Will finish electrics later in the week (headlight and switchgear), and now carbs are ready will install them - probably early next week.

A question on the electrics:
- the earth cable from the battery connects to the starter motor bolt (left mounting bolt I believe)
- so the engine is earthed / negative
- where does the frame get earthed? Given it is painted, do I need to get to bare metal on one of the engine mounts somewhere? I have tapped all the threads on the frame, so they are all bare metal, but not sure if that is sufficient or not to get a good earth.

EMS (Mike) - yes, I have put the "inferior" swinging arm on (sorry). What do you suggest I should change it to? Want overall original look, but if there is an option to improve on it then OK with that.

Paul.

[FalldownPhil]

Hi Paul,
I think that the frame gets a ground at the front mounting bolt for the coils to the frame or maybe it is the rear coil mount to frame. It is a ring terminal.
It won't be long now
Very Best,
Phil

[daves79x]

Yes, just make sure the paint is scraped off the starter mount and case where the negative battery cable goes and the green wire at the coils as well. Make sure the coil mounting bracket is clean where it mounts as well as the frame points. That should do it.

Dave

[jnnngs]

Exhaust

When I bought the bike, it had an old (very) beat up 6-1 which needed to be replaced.

In the end I went for the "sankei" replica exhaust. Overall, it looks good:

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Couple of issues to resolve though.

The side stand doesn't retract fully - the rubber pad on the exhaust hits the side stand where the side stand rubber is mounted:

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20150619_171354.jpg

The second issue is that the right hand exhaust is visibly higher than the right hand one:

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The issue is with the right hand one. The left exhaust fits really well, whereas the right one fits much better if you let it hang free. Once you put the mounting bolt in it fouls the cases so there is a gap between the mounting brackets and the exhaust ends up too high:

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On one of the threads elsewhere, Daves79x had the same issue about the different heights, and said he had an additional bracket in the pack which fixed the problem - no other brackets came with mine. That thread was over a year ago, so things may have changed since then.

Anyone else had issues with different exhaust heights / retracting the side stand?

Paul.

[daves79x]

Paul: I got another set just a few weeks ago and it also came with the alternate right bracket to lower the pipe. I'd check with the distributor and see if they can't get you one.

About the stand - Are you sure your stand is perfectly straight? Also I noticed the stopper is of the later type - long rubber instead of round. All the ones I've seen have been round ones for both stands. Shouldn't matter - I think your stand is not straight.

Dave

[jnnngs]

Dave - thanks, am getting a replacement bracket sent to me, hopefully that will fix that.

On the side stand, it doesn't look overly bent / twisted - not enough to cause it to hit the bumper/stop where it does. Where would the stand normally hit the bumper?

Paul.

[FalldownPhil]

Hi Paul,
I am really curious about your pipes as I have never seen a set of Sankei repro pipes with that rectangular stop on them. All I have seen had two round stops like the '78/'79 Z model had. Are we sure that these pipes are not Delkevic?
Best,
Phil

[jnnngs]

Phil,

I bought them from the SixCenter and were advertised as the Sankei replicas so pretty sure they are! The Exhausts are stamped H422R and H422L if that helps.

The rubbers came separately to the exhausts - so not fitted. I assume Bert provided what rubbers he had available?

Paul.

[paullavery]

Great looking restoration, if you haven't sorted the clutch spring yet I may be able to sort you out with one, I got a replacement from Bert at the sixcenter along with some other stuff but think the one i took out of the bike is ok, i'll check the measurement later & I'm not too far away from you in Hindhead.

Cheers, Paul.

[daves79x]

You indeed have the Sankeis. But also have never heard of the rectangular stop on them. If your sidestand rib is not perfectly straight, it's bent. This throws the business end way off. The wire loop should rest on the rubber. Not discounting, however, that the pipe stop is not quite right either.

Dave

[jnnngs]

Great looking restoration, if you haven't sorted the clutch spring yet I may be able to sort you out with one, I got a replacement from Bert at the sixcenter along with some other stuff but think the one i took out of the bike is ok, i'll check the measurement later & I'm not too far away from you in Hindhead.

Cheers, Paul.

Paul - I have an alternator clutch spring, FalldownPhil very kindly sent me one. Thanks for the offer tho'