Prolink clutch into my Z
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Prolink clutch into my Z
Hi guys
Im just waiting on a prolink clutch I orderd from Louis,I started to take the old one out,until I got to that nut that needs a special socket .Anyway Rol has a homemade one he''s going to lend to me,so will get back into it in a couple of days.I was a bit shocked when I got the clutch cover off ,not becase things looked bad but becase they didnt ,I''v seen pics in the forums of other clutches & the tower posts have lines & marks from where the springs go over them,mine havnt got a mark on them they look like new???. Also replaced the alt brushes today,the gauge was just starting to act up volts putting in 13.5 then dropping down to about 8 then up again,I hope that will settle down now.Will let you all know about what happens next,cheers Isaac.
Im just waiting on a prolink clutch I orderd from Louis,I started to take the old one out,until I got to that nut that needs a special socket .Anyway Rol has a homemade one he''s going to lend to me,so will get back into it in a couple of days.I was a bit shocked when I got the clutch cover off ,not becase things looked bad but becase they didnt ,I''v seen pics in the forums of other clutches & the tower posts have lines & marks from where the springs go over them,mine havnt got a mark on them they look like new???. Also replaced the alt brushes today,the gauge was just starting to act up volts putting in 13.5 then dropping down to about 8 then up again,I hope that will settle down now.Will let you all know about what happens next,cheers Isaac.
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Make sure you have all the parts before you put the clutch together! We talked about this in a different thread! The Prolink clutch uses a different sleeve (guide) and two washers instead of one.
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Isaac:
The clutch basket externally should look fine - that's not where the problem is. When you get the basket out - grasp the ring gear with one hand and the basket with the other. Now try to twist them apart - do this in a back-and-forth motion. You will notice play between the two. That's where most of the rattle comes from. The rubber pucks in there harden and shrink. The Pro-Link basket is constructed differently so it won't do this. I hope you are happy with the result, as you've spent a lot of money to do this upgrade. Again, there is absolutely nothing 'wrong' with your '79 basket functionally - it's just a bit noisy. It will last forever if you can live with the rattle.
Was one of your alternator brushes down to the wear mark? It would be the outside one. If not, then just replacing the brushes won't help your problem. Something else needs attention.
Dave
The clutch basket externally should look fine - that's not where the problem is. When you get the basket out - grasp the ring gear with one hand and the basket with the other. Now try to twist them apart - do this in a back-and-forth motion. You will notice play between the two. That's where most of the rattle comes from. The rubber pucks in there harden and shrink. The Pro-Link basket is constructed differently so it won't do this. I hope you are happy with the result, as you've spent a lot of money to do this upgrade. Again, there is absolutely nothing 'wrong' with your '79 basket functionally - it's just a bit noisy. It will last forever if you can live with the rattle.
Was one of your alternator brushes down to the wear mark? It would be the outside one. If not, then just replacing the brushes won't help your problem. Something else needs attention.
Dave
- cbx6ss
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
also, back to your alt brushes... be sure to check the plug from the alt to the harnace (sp?) to be sure there is a clean connection. That is a common location of overheating and melting. a few dabs of dialectric grease to keep it clean and dry wouldn't hurt either. I found out the hard way.
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Curious about the two washers. Where can I find more info?EMS wrote:Make sure you have all the parts before you put the clutch together! We talked about this in a different thread! The Prolink clutch uses a different sleeve (guide) and two washers instead of one.
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
I will do what you say when I get it out,to tell you the truth Dave I would of put up with the rattle ok,but the clutch was also slipping as well,so I thought rather than spend monney on the old basket and mybe still have a rattle,i thought I might spend a bit more and change the clutch to a prolink.As for the brushes they were both down to the wear marks,one a little more than the other.I did read all about brushes & clutches in the threads in hear,Louis has told me I will get everything I need to do the change,so I think that would include them washers etc.I took my side stand to work today,put it in the bender and straightend it out ,it was bent two ways,I also welded a 10mm plate onto the foot,it should stand nice and tall now ,cheers Isaac.
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Bobber:
The parts manual clearly shows the 2 washers, one fore and one aft of the shorter sleeve. You can do with the original '79-'80 washer plus one, but the part numbers are different.
Dave
The parts manual clearly shows the 2 washers, one fore and one aft of the shorter sleeve. You can do with the original '79-'80 washer plus one, but the part numbers are different.
Dave
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Ok Dave got the clutch out,did what you said grabed the back & front casings pushed them away from me and back towards me & they rattle.What causes it?,is that wear of the disks?,the wearing plates inside have like groves in them,is that to tell you when they are low?,how thick are the wearing plates when new?.Other than the plates might be low and the rattle,the whole clutch looks to be in very good nick.Mybe I could sell it on Ebay?,if someone wanted to put new plates in it,it could be ok for them.
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Isaac:
Please re-read my post carefully. You are not checking the right place. It is not the play between the basket and the inner hub. I also describe exactly what causes the play. You can search the many threads here that describe the 'fix' for the '79-'80 baskets. The description of the problem and the fix is very clear. I'm sure your '79 clutch is perfectly serviceable, just has the typical play that causes the rattle.
Dave
Please re-read my post carefully. You are not checking the right place. It is not the play between the basket and the inner hub. I also describe exactly what causes the play. You can search the many threads here that describe the 'fix' for the '79-'80 baskets. The description of the problem and the fix is very clear. I'm sure your '79 clutch is perfectly serviceable, just has the typical play that causes the rattle.
Dave
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Hi Dave
Yeahh!! I read your post again & others,and I got it ,I also looked at pics of new wear plates & mine are very worn out.I think the more I read and learn,about the clutch change, before the new one gets here the better.Ready for the next bit,cheers Isaac.
Yeahh!! I read your post again & others,and I got it ,I also looked at pics of new wear plates & mine are very worn out.I think the more I read and learn,about the clutch change, before the new one gets here the better.Ready for the next bit,cheers Isaac.
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
If you're going to ride the bike, often and far (as opposed to mostly just looking at it ) then the upgrade to a ProLink clutch basket is worth every penny - I know I've never regretted doing it to mine. I hated riding a Swiss Watch of a bike which sounded like it was self destructing when at a stoplight idling . . . . now those in the cars beside me don't even know I'm there
If I wanted a bike that sounds like a Ducati, I would have bought a Ducati
You can 'fix' the early baskets, sort of, temporarily (probably better to do it to an '80 basket than a '79) but the ProLink unit is a whole 'nother ball game . . . . it's more like an automotive clutch and will probably last you forever - If you hope to put 50K miles on your rebuilt '79 you won't regret spending the money now
Don
If I wanted a bike that sounds like a Ducati, I would have bought a Ducati
You can 'fix' the early baskets, sort of, temporarily (probably better to do it to an '80 basket than a '79) but the ProLink unit is a whole 'nother ball game . . . . it's more like an automotive clutch and will probably last you forever - If you hope to put 50K miles on your rebuilt '79 you won't regret spending the money now
Don
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Thanks Don
yours was one of the threads I read,mybe you can tell me with the two washers,were does the second one go?,I figger that one just goes back were my 79 was,behined the nut,but the second one goes???.I just found the info on the thickness of the wear plates,they sould be no less than3.1mm,mine are 2.9,Also Dave there is movment in place you said,cheers Isaac.
yours was one of the threads I read,mybe you can tell me with the two washers,were does the second one go?,I figger that one just goes back were my 79 was,behined the nut,but the second one goes???.I just found the info on the thickness of the wear plates,they sould be no less than3.1mm,mine are 2.9,Also Dave there is movment in place you said,cheers Isaac.
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Dave can best advise you on the assembly of the washers and spacers . . . . he helped me sort out mine when we put it together and I didn't take notes - Mine is an assortment of both early and late model parts
Don
Don
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Loud clutches save lifes!!!!
- bikeymikey748
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Re: Prolink clutch into my Z
Maybe so, but they save money, for sure;Loud clutches save lifes!!!!
I got my Duc at a great discount because ( in a moment of weakness) I was able to convince the salesman, at the car dealership where the bike had been traded in for a VOLVO !!!, that the clutch rattle was actually....a 'blown' connecting rod !
I explained that the prices on Duc parts were high and that he had better lower the asking price a significant amount, or I would pass on the sale.
I swear, I figured I'd see him in the rear-views, chasing me down the block, as I rode away and he realised his error.
But absolutely....sounds great on a Duc, on a CBX???
Not so much.