1979 CBX Winter Project

[BallAquatics]

One day last fall they told me my cancer was back. As I looked into the bathroom mirror that morning, I realized that old man looking back at me had better get busy on the stored 1979 CBX if he ever expected to ride it again.

Now it’s not all gloom and doom as Columbus Ohio has some fantastic Doctors and I have been told I’ll get through this. But the fact that I’ll soon be 70 years old remains. That said, I knew I couldn’t put this project off any longer.

I purchased this bike new from Honda of Springfield in Springfield Ohio in 1980. Sales were not what Honda had hoped for, and new 1979 models where available still in their crates.

My wife and I toured Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Kentucky, and Tennessee on the bike for several years. We had soft luggage, saddle bags and a large tank bag, and it made for a great touring machine.

In the fall of 1988 I parked it at my Father’s garage as we were moving house and that seemed like the best place for it. Little did I know at the time that it would be 36 years before I got the bike out again!



On December 16th 2023, I loaded up the bike and brought it home to the shop. The adventure begins!

[Larry Zimmer]

Here's to a happy resto. Looks as though it handled the storage fairly well. Have fun and happy trails. Let us know if we can help.

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Always nice to get some background stories on restoration projects.
Good luck in getting your CBX back on the road.

[daves79x]

Welcome! If you attended any of the CBX rallies in Ohio/PA back in the day, I'm sure we've met. In any case, sorry to hear about your medical issues - getting old sucks.

I assume you kind of know what you're in for. Carbs first, brakes, forks, steering bearings, tires, lots more. Nothing many guys here haven't done. Holler if we can help.

Dave

[BallAquatics]

Thanks for all the encouragement guys! I must admit that at first I was a bit intimidated by the carbs on the CBX, but carbs are carbs and the way they break down into two units of 3 makes them less intimidating. I've done a number of carbs on 4 cylinder bikes with good results so I'm hopeful these will turn out the same.

I like to break my projects into 4 stages that I work through. Run / Ride / Looks / Misc

First thing is to work on what's needed to get the bike running.
Next work on what's needed to make it safe to take out on the road.
After that, I concentrate on cosmetic parts and pieces.
Lastly, any miscellaneous items that might need attention.

My first two items on the list now that it's in the shop are, 1) a new battery, and 2) complete rebuild of the carbs. I ordered up a new Yuasa YB18L-A battery on-line.

As for the carbs, I purchased Mike Nixon's booklet several years ago. I've also ordered rebuild kits from Randakk's along with new Air Tee's. I also ordered genuine Keihin float valves from PJ Motorsports.

I also ordered rebuild kits for all the calipers and master cylinders from Brake Crafters. I've used their stuff before and like how complete their kits are.

[Jeff Bennetts]

Order some carb insulators, yours are probably rock hard as most anything rubber will be, did you order a carb accel pump diaphragm too? When you pull the carbs off be very careful of the plastic manifold underneath the carb rack for the overflow hoses, they get brittle and will crack if you are rough with them.
Your rear hub cushions/dampers need checking for deterioration, new gasket and grommets for the cam cover bolts, steering head bearings and races need checked for spotting, there’s more but most of it will be obvious when you begin restoring it.

By the looks of some of those fasteners you need to buy some JIS bits!



Good luck and keep us updated.

[CBX-tras]

You can get all your carb parts, carb screws, JIS bits, boots and gaskets from KMCarburetor.com

Also, a word of caution. Don't tie the bike down by the handlebars. They're made of aluminum and easily bent. Use a loop strap around the frame tube by the oil cooler instead.

[Larry Zimmer]

Couple notes on the carbs: Take good observation of the linkage (throttle and choke) joints between the 2 halves. Makes it easier when you reassemble. Also, do a good bench synch noting that you start by making #3 like #4. Then, #2 and #5 like #4. Then #1 and #6 like #4. Because of the linkage arrangement of these carbs, they are not quite as simple as a straight line set of 4. But, not all that complicated, either. Just take a little more time and finesse. A really good bench synch goes a long way.

Enjoy. Hope to have you on the road this Summer.

[BallAquatics]

Thanks for all the tips guys. Carbs are off the bike!

Order some carb insulators, yours are probably rock hard as most anything rubber will be, did you order a carb accel pump diaphragm too?

I did end up ordering the engine side carb boots. The ones on the air cleaner side are in fantastic shape! The Randakk's kit is pretty complete and comes with rebuild kits for the air cut-off valve and accelerator valve.



If I'd known the bike was going to set for an extended time, I'd have put it away better. The carbs are pretty nasty inside.....



I'm sure they will clean up nice though. I use a 30 liter ultrasonic and it works like magic. Amazes me every time I put something in it!

[NobleHops]

I don’t mean to peck at you but it’s best to avoid dissimilar metals in an ultrasonic bath at the same time. You’re breaking these down to replace the passage orings, right?

[BallAquatics]

I don’t mean to peck at you but it’s best to avoid dissimilar metals in an ultrasonic bath at the same time. You’re breaking these down to replace the passage orings, right?

No problems... I'm always looking for a better / easier way of doing things. Yes, I disassemble the carb completely and do each one in their own container when in the ultrasonic. I like to keep the carbs segregated and put the same parts that came out of the carb back into the same carb body.



I have on occasion though, put a carb in the ultrasonic before it's completely apart if I have a jet or other part that doesn't want to cooperate. In my experience the heat and cleaner aids in freeing up stuck parts.

[daves79x]

Good start! I'll be shocked if you don't have a couple or more cracked brass standpipes. Check them carefully. Also, the Randakk kit does not come with the linkage joint rubber covers. You will very likely need them. Also new vent Ts, or at least the replacement rubbers, if you choose to use them. BTW, the airbox side 'rubbers' are part of the airbox and not a separate part. They never get hard and brittle, just damaged from abuse.

Dave

[Jebbysan]

I don’t mean to peck at you but it’s best to avoid dissimilar metals in an ultrasonic bath at the same time. You’re breaking these down to replace the passage orings, right?

No problems... I'm always looking for a better / easier way of doing things. Yes, I disassemble the carb completely and do each one in their own container when in the ultrasonic. I like to keep the carbs segregated and put the same parts that came out of the carb back into the same carb body.



I have on occasion though, put a carb in the ultrasonic before it's completely apart if I have a jet or other part that doesn't want to cooperate. In my experience the heat and cleaner aids in freeing up stuck parts.

I hope you are not putting the parts in those plastic containers to Ultrasonic as it will render the Ultrasonic useless....it will deaden the frequency of the generator. Parts need to free in the tank.....screen type cages are ok.....

Jebby

[BallAquatics]

Carbs are done! I need to do a quick polish of the fuel stain around the inlet.....



I used Mike Nixon's method of removing the idle jets...







I thought that these carbs might be quite the challenge, but they came apart & went back together with no big problems. I think last years winter project, 1982 Yamaha Seca Turbo, with the pressurized mikuni carbs were a bit more fiddly.



Next up, I'll be checking the over-flow tubes, setting the floats and then a bench sync.

[NobleHops]

Great job!