The International CBX Owners Association

Thanks Larry,

I found this nice radial master cylinder at a bike breaker. It came off a Suzuki GSX-R 1000 ’07 that has Tokico 4-pot calipers with 2x30mm + 2x34mm pistons just like in my Nissin 4-pots. This master cylinder has a 19mm pison.

"The 18 vs 20mm settings:
-The 18mm setting provides a little more feel, and a lighter pull on the lever is required. Consequently the 18mm has better modulation characteristics, i. e. more feel. Brembo says this is better for the track.
-The 20mm setting provides a quicker braking response; Brembo says this is better for the street."




This i supposed to work great with the Nissin 4-pots. I will install braided brake lines directly from the master cylinder to each caliper (no splitter used).

I also bought this nice brand new front fender for a Yamaha FZS 600 ca '03.
Just have to be painted Candy Glory Red as the rest of the body parts.

Larry Zimmer wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 05, 2024 12:32 pm

Superb!! Engineering at its best.

Agreed!
Peter, your attention to detail is amazing.

Looking very good.

What clutch lever and switches do you plan to use?
Have you considered converting to hydraulic clutch when you are on it?

Thanks 512tr, Steve!

512tr,
I have parts to convert to hydraulic clutch from Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda and have also looked at mikeybikey's hydraulic actuator at the clutch arm which I think was the neatest solution before I ditched the whole Idea. If it is working well as it is, why change it and add a heavier lever, messing with hydraulic fluid etc.? I have never experienced any problems with the cable clutch, so will keep it.

I have switches from ZX-9R, Suzuki GSX-R1100, Honda CBR 1000 and I will try to fit the ZX-9R ones. I may have to use the CBX clutch lever, but will try to find a better looking one for cable. The OEM CBX stuff looks a bit dated IMO. Maybe also fit a stealthy choke lever separated from the clutch unit.


Okey, now I have mounted the tank and seat so I can try and evaluate the best possible position of the foot pegs. For this I am making some mock-up rearset plates with multiple peg positions to choose from. See more about the rearsets here: viewtopic.php?f=102&t=12693 What do you think about the stance?

I have some pictures of rearset setups that I have found interesting over the years but I have no knowledge of their operation, I can post a few, some are very minimal, others have heel guards and some are fully adjustable.

Thanks Jeff!

I like the alu stuff, very nice!!

Can you please post these rearsets in the other thread as well. viewtopic.php?f=102&t=12693

I will just mention my rearset progress briefly here and do the all in rearset discussion over there....

RC 166 wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 06, 2024 2:07 pm

512tr,
I have parts to convert to hydraulic clutch from Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda and have also looked at mikeybikey's hydraulic actuator at the clutch arm which I think was the neatest solution before I ditched the whole Idea. If it is working well as it is, why change it and add a heavier lever, messing with hydraulic fluid etc.? I have never experienced any problems with the cable clutch, so will keep it.

In case you pick up the idea again, I can recommend this Frando clutch cylinder. I use Brembo pump and Ducati hand control unit with integrated choke lever.

I will try to fit these switches from ZX-9R. The left switch also has a very thin choke lever.





I dont intend to use a hydraulic clutch lever, I will look for something like this.

I did a similar handlebar switch mod, except I used a Euro CBR throttle switch with H/L Off/ running light / headlight and front exit throttle cables for clearance to the tank when full lock to right and a Euro 94/95 CB1000 Big One for clutch side, I wanted the index finger Flash to pass switch, sometimes like a quick look ahead and find it quicker & easier to use than reaching for the thumb button. I had to use a modified 2006 CB500F choke cable to be able to clear tank at full lock, choke function is still smooth. Also used a 06 CB-919 clutch lever perch, I am running a low rise Rizoma bar.

Admire all the work you've put into your build !!!

Thanks JT!

I test mounted my ZX-9R switches, throttle etc. It seems to clear the tank when at full lock (I have restricted my steering angle due to the step-down yoke). In future I might redesign the top yoke a little so i get back some steering angle. My bar is 800mm wide and with these controls I can cut 15mm on each side. Any bar end weights will be installed inside the bar, not protruding at all.

I admire your skills. Have you considered having longer fork
tubes made to avoid using the step down top yoke?

Thanks hondaman!

I thought of that initially, but the ZX-9R top yoke does not have any bar mounts, so would probably have made a new flat top yoke anyway with mounts. And the top yoke must have the correct dimensions to accept the CBX stem, nut etc...


Anyway, happy with this solution for now.