CBX '79 With Kawasaki ZX-9R & Yamaha FZR1000 suspension

[RC 166]

Thanks Larry,

I found this nice radial master cylinder at a bike breaker. It came off a Suzuki GSX-R 1000 ’07 that has Tokico 4-pot calipers with 2x30mm + 2x34mm pistons just like in my Nissin 4-pots. This master cylinder has a 19mm pison.

"The 18 vs 20mm settings:
-The 18mm setting provides a little more feel, and a lighter pull on the lever is required. Consequently the 18mm has better modulation characteristics, i. e. more feel. Brembo says this is better for the track.
-The 20mm setting provides a quicker braking response; Brembo says this is better for the street."

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This i supposed to work great with the Nissin 4-pots. I will install braided brake lines directly from the master cylinder to each caliper (no splitter used).

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[RC 166]

I also bought this nice brand new front fender for a Yamaha FZS 600 ca '03.
Just have to be painted Candy Glory Red as the rest of the body parts.

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[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Superb!! Engineering at its best.

Agreed!
Peter, your attention to detail is amazing.

[512tr]

Looking very good.

What clutch lever and switches do you plan to use?
Have you considered converting to hydraulic clutch when you are on it?

[RC 166]

Thanks 512tr, Steve!

512tr,
I have parts to convert to hydraulic clutch from Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda and have also looked at mikeybikey's hydraulic actuator at the clutch arm which I think was the neatest solution before I ditched the whole Idea. If it is working well as it is, why change it and add a heavier lever, messing with hydraulic fluid etc.? I have never experienced any problems with the cable clutch, so will keep it.

I have switches from ZX-9R, Suzuki GSX-R1100, Honda CBR 1000 and I will try to fit the ZX-9R ones. I may have to use the CBX clutch lever, but will try to find a better looking one for cable. The OEM CBX stuff looks a bit dated IMO. Maybe also fit a stealthy choke lever separated from the clutch unit.


Okey, now I have mounted the tank and seat so I can try and evaluate the best possible position of the foot pegs. For this I am making some mock-up rearset plates with multiple peg positions to choose from. See more about the rearsets here: viewtopic.php?f=102&t=12693 What do you think about the stance?

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[Jeff Bennetts]

I have some pictures of rearset setups that I have found interesting over the years but I have no knowledge of their operation, I can post a few, some are very minimal, others have heel guards and some are fully adjustable.

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[RC 166]

Thanks Jeff!

I like the alu stuff, very nice!!

Can you please post these rearsets in the other thread as well. viewtopic.php?f=102&t=12693

I will just mention my rearset progress briefly here and do the all in rearset discussion over there....

[Jeff Bennetts]

[512tr]

512tr,
I have parts to convert to hydraulic clutch from Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda and have also looked at mikeybikey's hydraulic actuator at the clutch arm which I think was the neatest solution before I ditched the whole Idea. If it is working well as it is, why change it and add a heavier lever, messing with hydraulic fluid etc.? I have never experienced any problems with the cable clutch, so will keep it.

In case you pick up the idea again, I can recommend this Frando clutch cylinder. I use Brembo pump and Ducati hand control unit with integrated choke lever.

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[RC 166]

I will try to fit these switches from ZX-9R. The left switch also has a very thin choke lever.

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I dont intend to use a hydraulic clutch lever, I will look for something like this.

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[jt]

I did a similar handlebar switch mod, except I used a Euro CBR throttle switch with H/L Off/ running light / headlight and front exit throttle cables for clearance to the tank when full lock to right and a Euro 94/95 CB1000 Big One for clutch side, I wanted the index finger Flash to pass switch, sometimes like a quick look ahead and find it quicker & easier to use than reaching for the thumb button. I had to use a modified 2006 CB500F choke cable to be able to clear tank at full lock, choke function is still smooth. Also used a 06 CB-919 clutch lever perch, I am running a low rise Rizoma bar.

Admire all the work you've put into your build !!!

[RC 166]

Thanks JT!

I test mounted my ZX-9R switches, throttle etc. It seems to clear the tank when at full lock (I have restricted my steering angle due to the step-down yoke). In future I might redesign the top yoke a little so i get back some steering angle. My bar is 800mm wide and with these controls I can cut 15mm on each side. Any bar end weights will be installed inside the bar, not protruding at all.

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[hondaman160mph]

I admire your skills. Have you considered having longer fork
tubes made to avoid using the step down top yoke?

[RC 166]

Thanks hondaman!

I thought of that initially, but the ZX-9R top yoke does not have any bar mounts, so would probably have made a new flat top yoke anyway with mounts. And the top yoke must have the correct dimensions to accept the CBX stem, nut etc...


Anyway, happy with this solution for now.