Low Mileage, Long Sleeping ’82 Pro-Link Awakening

[shiskowd]

After I completed my ’79 resto project this spring I was adamant I wanted to ‘take the winter off’ but with another winter approaching with still some travel challenges in play I routed out another CBX from a local, this time a very complete, low mileage ‘82 Pro-Link. I was considering a late model sport tourer of some sort to add to the herd but this seemed a better idea and a winter project.





The bike is in great shape save for some slow speed/tip over damage to the right-side travel case. A US bike with 6,400 miles, last registered in New York state in 1989 – the motor is thought to not have spun for 32 years. The mileage is legit from my observations – still has the OEM chain and sprockets, original seat that is perfect, no noticeable wear on grips or foot pegs, the clutch basket looks like new. Why it has been sitting for so long and how it got here is an interesting tail that I’ll share when I corroborate the story.

Other observations:

• Tank was drained, petcock clean – some deliberate attention here prior to the long sleep.

• Not so for the carbs, they’re a mess. The left bank looks like it wasn’t drained, the floats stuck and the slide needles frozen in the jets. Curiously, they’re also VB60AA’s with the Pro-Link vacuum shut off valve feeding both banks of carbs.

• The alternator clutch faces are deeply grooved but should be able to salvage.

• Engine turned easily with wrench on the crankshaft, sufficient oil for a compression test.

• Electrical systems all functioning, starter spun engine smartly, after replacing plug caps each cylinder showed strong spark across a new plug.

• Valve clearances all within spec. Compression test shows all cylinders between 120 & 130 psi.

• All the polished covers that had a clear coat are corroded badly (valve, alternator, ignitor). Likely the bike was stored in a more humid environment for part of its long sleep than the arid, high altitude air out this way.

• The engine looks like the valve cover may have leaked when it was running years ago. The oil film combined with 30+ years of garage grime has left nasty, tough film that is not easily removed on the engine.

• The pipes are the OEM, from the collector back they're in great shape. In front of that they are severely blued/corroded, the heat having damaged the chrome surface and left to corrode. No amount of Blue Job improves (I tried).

Given all that, I’m debating how deep to go inside the engine or if it’s even necessary. Concern is the condition of the cylinder walls given the corrosion on the outside and if some fuel had wiped the oil film of the walls leaving them unprotected. The engine is more easily scrubbed and painted when disassembled but could be managed intact. The engine doesn't have many hours on it but the rubber bits like shaft seals, valve seals may have stiffened and prone to leak(?).

I'm leaning to a full tear down but would welcome your opinions!

[CBX1000FAN]

Interesting! Try a borescope to see inside the cylinders before stripping the engine....

Regards!!

[daves79x]

Nice find! I wouldn't do any more to the engine than you have. It will run just fine. Do you really need to paint the whole engine? It looks to me as if you could clean it thoroughly and treat it with WD40. You'll be amazed at how it will look. Of course polish the covers, or better yet, send them for coating (valve cover and alternator cover mainly). There is a bright aluminum ceramic coating that is fantastic.

Are you sure the carbs are VB60? They should be VB64 with dual 5/16 fuel inlets.

Dave

[CBX-tras]

I have a right '82 bag in great shape.

Contact me if interested.

[shiskowd]

Interesting! Try a borescope to see inside the cylinders before stripping the engine....

Regards!!

I purchased a cheap borescope off Amazon that connects to an Android device or PC. Works pretty well in the direction the camera faces but needs a mirror to 'look' sideways which is needed with the small cylinder bores. The mirror is terrible especially when the light is turned on - can't see anything. May look at a better model that has a sideways camera to inspect the bores.

Are you sure the carbs are VB60? They should be VB64 with dual 5/16 fuel inlets.

Dave

The carbs are indeed the model 60's with the additional jet in the body. You can see in the pictures below they have the larger fuel inlets with the vacuum valve and even the late model carb drain arrangement. It seems odd that someone would go through the trouble to fit in the 'Z carburetors in the short time this bike was on the road and for what benefit??





As for further disassembling, I'll take your advise to leave it as is and clean it up best I can and look for someone who can do the ceramic coating locally. Failing that, would you have a suggestion for an outfit that can do the coating? Thanks!

[JoeInTUS]

S100 Engine Brightener works great on the black Pro-Link engines.

I just woke-up an 82 with 42K miles that had sleeping since 1992 based on the license plate. Did all the normal deep service items and it started right up on the first attempt. 80 miles of test riding and it is running well. As Dave said yours should be fine.

[FalldownPhil]

I really think that you should consider purchasing a lottery ticket !!
Nice find !!
Best,
Phil

[heli_madken]

Be watching this with great interest, basically the same bike as mine but in much better condition cosmetically. I have decided after advice from here to leave my engine alone as it appears to be in great condition, cams look like new and the bores look great.

I have just painted my engine with PJ1 and it has come out great, you may be able to mask off the frame and all the other bits if you arent removing the engine, it was well worth doing on mine.

Looking forward to seeing more progress, oh and take it from me polishing the valve cover is a huge amount of work, it took me a week and I am still not happy with it.

[crankwalk]

Nice find! I wouldn't do any more to the engine than you have. It will run just fine. Do you really need to paint the whole engine? It looks to me as if you could clean it thoroughly and treat it with WD40. You'll be amazed at how it will look. Of course polish the covers, or better yet, send them for coating (valve cover and alternator cover mainly). There is a bright aluminum ceramic coating that is fantastic.

Are you sure the carbs are VB60? They should be VB64 with dual 5/16 fuel inlets.

Dave

x2 on the WD40. My engine looked pretty gross and with a quick soapy water bath and then the oily rag the next day it goes a long way. Nice save and good luck with it!

[shiskowd]

S100 Engine Brightener works great on the black Pro-Link engines.

Thanks for the suggestion, I found some S100 at a local bike shop and will give that a go along with the suggested WD40.

I started taking stock of the VB60 carburetors that came with the bike. The carbs are a mess and not at all consistent with the condition of the rest of the bike. Suspect the stock VB64's were switched out with this fouled up set. Not only are the lower float bowels and jets gummed up the #1 & 6 carbs have lots of corrosion in the vacuum chambers. Still salvageable with some effort.



The seller who I purchased the bike from had a loose set of VB64's (insists not from now my '82) that he was willing to depart with that are in much better condition and are the correct model for the '82 pro-link.



Carb model is VB64BB.



This carb set is missing all the main jet holder and jets but seems they're still available from a number of sources and are active Honda parts (according to Partzilla).

Any suggestions other than the stock jetting (main - #105, slow jet - #35) for stock intake/filter and exhaust?

[daves79x]

The VB64 carbs with the stock jetting will work fine. Could go to #38 slow jets. Easy way to tell if these might have been the original carbs is to see if the slow jets are pressed-in or screw-in. VB64 for '81 were pressed, for '82 they were screw-in.

Dave

[EMS]

VB64BB are original for 1982 CBX Canadian bikes only.
One other thing while I am here: I would strongly suggest you take the head off and replace the valve stem seals. All the experts recommend to replace all the O-rings and seals on carbs after that many years and nobody addresses valve stem seals. While the head is off, you can also inspect a few other things. It could be good preventive maintenance to slightly relap the valves.

[shiskowd]

The VB64 carbs with the stock jetting will work fine. Could go to #38 slow jets. Easy way to tell if these might have been the original carbs is to see if the slow jets are pressed-in or screw-in. VB64 for '81 were pressed, for '82 they were screw-in.

The slow jets are threaded, #35's. I'm at some altitude here (1,100 ft) going richer on the slow jet may not be necessary?

VB64BB are original for 1982 CBX Canadian bikes only.

Curious why they would have a different spec carb for the Canadian market, especially with such a low production volume?

One other thing while I am here: I would strongly suggest you take the head off and replace the valve stem seals. All the experts recommend to replace all the O-rings and seals on carbs after that many years and nobody addresses valve stem seals. While the head is off, you can also inspect a few other things. It could be good preventive maintenance to slightly relap the valves.

After I purchased the bike I ordered a set of Viton valve stem seals thinking that they would have lost some of their sealing effectiveness. On the carbs, these VB64's are very clean inside and have never been apart - the synchronizing screws still had the all the yellow paint on the threads untouched so they have the original o-rings which are rather stiff and would be a leaking mess if not replaced.

I'm leaning to taking the head off as Mike suggests, replace the stem seals, inspect the valve surfaces for pitting and have a look at the cylinder bores.

[daves79x]

I can tell you that you will find the exhaust valves and seats pitted with 'black pepper' marks. Quite often not possible to hand lap them completely. The intakes will be fine. But once you disturb the valves, you're almost stuck doing it. Figure on cleaning and hand lapping the intakes and possible replacing all the exhaust valves and having the seats cut. Then hand lap the new exhaust valves and be prepared for a whole new range of shims to adjust clearances. Kind of a rabbit hole once you start down this road.

The bike will run just fine, I'm sure. My almost 50K mile '79 uses no more oil than it ever did and does not smoke upon start-up, or any other time. The engine has never been apart. I've recommissioned many bikes such as yours and rarely have taken the engines apart. They ran just fine. I doubt if you are going to go cross-country on this bike. Will you even put 1000-2000 miles a year on it?

A final note - I regularly service a 100K-plus mile '82. The first time the head was ever off was at 103,000 miles. It used very little oil. I did what I described above, plus a cylinder hone and new rings. Still going strong at 113,000.

I would personally put my money into upgrading the front and rear suspension.

Dave

[shiskowd]

Thanks Dave, can't argue with your experience in this area. I'm well aware of the proverbial rabbit hole and how costs can snowball with no real benefit in terms of outcome at times. The engine is pristine internally as far as I can see thus far. As you suggest, I'd rather spend the $ on upgrading the suspension. Perhaps an Ikon shock and the Race Tech emulators & springs, or the more spendy Ohlins or Traxxion cartridges.

Back to the jetting, at our 3,500 ft elevation would going to the #38 slow jet perform better than the #35's with stock pipes and intake?