The International CBX Owners Association

Hi Paul,
You can check the valves with the head on the bench but bolt down only one pair of cams at a time to keep from bending any valves. Do all intake, unbolt, then all exh. I would re-check them after final assembly.
Another note: unless you are sure, check the valve stem seals to be sure they are Viton brand.

With regard to your question on assembling the case halves, the FSM outlines what goes where for the transmission and where and where not to put the Hondabond.

About your start button, when I disassembled mine there
was a small rectangular fiber insulator that fell out.
It's been a while and I don't recall it's exact placement.
If it's missing maybe you could check the floor.

Not sure exactly what type of stem seals ,they are brown in colour and held the valve firmly ,the last owner had re-built the head ,the stem seals are new & the head has never been used ,I have completed the re-build and all valves back in their seats ,don't want to go through that nightmare again , so will have to go with what's in place .Will definitely do the valves on the bench & re-check once the head is torqued to the cylinder ,thx for that info..
When the starter button pieces went flying I spent about 15 minutes on the ground in my garage ,that was three weeks ago , could only locate the two brass contacts and the small spring underneath ,I seem to remember before I pulled it apart when I depressed the button the headlight would turn off , now it stays on when the button is depressed ,that's what made me think something is missing ,does the headlight turn off when the starter button is depressed.
Got a call from my mechanic today ,he does not reccomend me using the Forseti 1147 cc big bore pistons as he thinks they are not of good quality ,any opinions .Two cylinders have only slight scouring and he said a second over ,.5 mm ,would be sufficient .
I am trying to find another set of pistons , called Tims Cbx but he has nothing in stock , Wiseco would be another option ,where could I purchase ,or maybe someone has a set of new 2nd over piston sets they would be willing to part with.

Thx ,Trini 67

Bert at SixCenterMoteren https://www.sixcenter.nl/index.html has standard and oversize pistons I don't know the brand but Bert has been rebuilding CBX for some time.

Then there is Cruzinimage, they have mixed reputation
https://www.cruzinimage.net/2017/08/25/ ... cc-67-5mm/

Got the pistons ,65 mm which is a second over ,coming from Bert ,he said they are made in Japan to the original honda specs ,said he has been selling these pistons for 9 years and has never had any customer complaints ,said one customer has over 100,000 kms on these pistons without issues .

Just as a point of reference, Bob Franzke the owner of CBXPerformance https://cbxperformance.com/ has been a great source of parts and knowledge to the CBX community from the beginning. If he doesn’t sell it he usually has a recommendation that you can trust, very friendly and knowledgeable fella.

Answer to your one question: YES, the headlight does turn off when pushing the starter button. I don't know the internal construction of the button, though.

pablotrini67 wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 21, 2021 10:11 pm

Not sure exactly what type of stem seals ,they are brown in colour and held the valve firmly ,the last owner had re-built the head ,the stem seals are new & the head has never been used ,I have completed the re-build and all valves back in their seats ,don't want to go through that nightmare again , so will have to go with what's in place .Will definitely do the valves on the bench & re-check once the head is torqued to the cylinder ,thx for that info..
When the starter button pieces went flying I spent about 15 minutes on the ground in my garage ,that was three weeks ago , could only locate the two brass contacts and the small spring underneath ,I seem to remember before I pulled it apart when I depressed the button the headlight would turn off , now it stays on when the button is depressed ,that's what made me think something is missing ,does the headlight turn off when the starter button is depressed.
Got a call from my mechanic today ,he does not reccomend me using the Forseti 1147 cc big bore pistons as he thinks they are not of good quality ,any opinions .Two cylinders have only slight scouring and he said a second over ,.5 mm ,would be sufficient .
I am trying to find another set of pistons , called Tims Cbx but he has nothing in stock , Wiseco would be another option ,where could I purchase ,or maybe someone has a set of new 2nd over piston sets they would be willing to part with.

Thx ,Trini 67

If those brown valve stem seals came with a "kit", they can't be trusted due to their unknown material.
I sell VITON seals for about $20 a set + shipping.

Pistons are another issue. Finding 2 or a full set of second oversize will be near impossible and costly.
Many of us have run the Crusin Image (ebay) 3mm over in the past. But lately (since covid) the quality of the rings isn't what it used to be and the head gasket too. I've used a Cometic in its place due to my concern of fitting to the dowel pins. I'd still use their pistons, pins and clips just source better rings from Total Seal and the gasket, mentioned. Just fine for a daily driver.
Diamond will MAKE billet pistons for you but, that's a process all in itself and pricing starts around $1000 (no gaskets).
Photo of one, they did for me a few years ago for Randakk's Supercharged CBX. (low compression).

Have decided to go ahead with a set of 6 pistons from Six Center Motoren , Bert said he has been selling and using these Japanese made pistons which are manufactured almost to the original honda spec ,has never had any customers complain & has a customer with over 1000,000 kms without any issues ,piston kits are 305 euro and gasket 60 euro , also know a local rider who had installed these pistons in his cbx last year and his mechanic who is highly qualified and knowleadgeable thought they were of hi-qualitv , my first choice would have been j & e but tims cbx had nothing in stock and said it would be over two mnths before he gets .
I had already re-built the head with the brown valve stem seals so they will have to stay in place .
Thx,Trini 67

FYI, Diamond, Wiseco, J&E, Mahle are ALL now owned by the same corporation.

Progressing on the 1979 cbx resto . Carbs are done ,fortunately they were in fairly good condition with zero sludge or blocked jets ,everything was removed and properly cleaned with crc carb cleaner & blast of compressed air ,the only thing visibly wrong were the connector tube o-rings were dried out and some were cracked , I had bought the master re-build kit but only used the o-rings & accelorator pump & air cut-off valve assy ,have all the jets if any one intrst'd .still need to do a bench test of the carbs.
I had obtained a used right handlebar switch assy , opened up the starter button and found there is a very small insulator between the two brass connectors ,I then searched on the ground where I had initially opened the one on the bike and was fortunate enough to find the small insulator ,I had lost it three weeks ago ,lucky ,re-assembled the starter button ,checks out ok now as the lights do go off when the starter btn. depressed.
Have decided to go with a dyna ignition ,have done some research on this forum but found nothing definitive ,the dyna instructions are not clear as to the mounting of the new rotor , have attached a photo of how I think it should be done ,pls correct me if I am wrong ,also have uploaded a picture of the coils with where I think the plug cables should route to each cylinder ,the dyna coils fire through both plug connections at the same time .
Also does the base plate screw holes have to be elongated to allow proper engine retarding ,found this video on u-tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXZo4QvT_N8

Thx ,Trini67

pictures of the starter button switch internals ,one shows the missing insulator between the two brass connectors ,one the entire assy with the lost and found insulator ,one is how it looks assembled.

SNAP! I am a few days behind you just started polishing the caps. Like you I heeded all the warnings on this site about full strip down and clean. I bought an ultrasonic cleaner which has been worth every penny as its done a great job of cleaning everything. Also Mike Nixons book is a must have as far as I am concerned.

I am also going down the the Dyna route. Instructions as you say are not clear and lots of searches only turned up the same video you found which sadly ends abruptly. I will be lengthening the base plate screw holes as I don't believe it will cause any harm even if it isn't needed. Also trimming down the base plate as stated in the instructions.

I made this drawing as I removed the coils to help my memory so your drawing is correct - One worry I have is how to attach the coils as the HT leads exit downwards (unlike forwards using stock) or upwards? so clearance may be an issue but not sure. I have'nt found any pictures of them fitted anywhere.

It will be a couple of weeks before I fit my Dyna set up so keep us posted on how you get on and good luck!

I guess you are working on a 1979 CBX, the carbs were in fairly good state so once dissassembled the carb bodies just got a good scrubbing in the kitchen sink ,when the wife wasn't home .funny how after three hrs she was still able to detect a strange smell in the sink even though I had sprayed it with air freshener.
Looks like I got my spark plug wires correct ,I wasn't sure as I had bought the bike with the engine in boxes and the coils & spark plug leads had already been removed ,don't know where you bought your dyna system ,I bought mine from TIMS CBX ,I just got off the phone & was speaking with Bill Brint who owns Tims cbx ,I had sent him the same picture that,s posted here of the assembled advance unit with the installed dyna rotor & he confirmed it was installed correctly ,he also confirmed to elongate the base plate screw slots .I had installed a set of dyna coils on my 82 cbx a number of years ago and they will bolt right into the existing bracket with no clearance issues,the output towers (plug wire ports )should face down and forwards ,the dyna will fire through both ports @ the same time ,ie one used spark & one wasted spark so doesn't matter which port the plug wire goes into , the upper connection on the coils is the positive & attach the redwire from the dyna ignition & the black/white wire from the harness ,this black/white wire can be sourced from the plug which would plug into the spark unit ,it's a switched power source which turns on with the ignition ,the plug actually has the black/white and green wire , the black wire form the dyna ignition connects to the 1-6 coil , green to the 3-4 coil , white to the 2-5 coil ,have attached copy of the installation ,hope it all makes sense , if not go to TIMS CBX web page on their tech docs ,you will find all the info you need ,I guess the final tuning & ignition timing should be done by someone who knows what they are doing