CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Instrument Cluster
As the original clocks were faded, I decided to spruce them up somewhat.
I started off using these decals:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBX1000 ... Sw7NNUBvyK
These are "stickers" which you apply to your existing clock plates. The process is you sand down the plates to remove the existing paint, and to get back to the original orange plates. Depending on how faded your plates are, you have to sand away quite a lot of the plate - a few mm so the plate does get significantly thinner.
Starting point: After removing black paint to reveal faded underlying plate: After sanding until all faded orange is removed and the decal before applying to the plate: After applying the decal: The finish was OK but decided to compare it to the clock plates sold by Pete Rose (DigitalPizza). Pete's plates are on the bottom: I decided to go with Pete's plates in the end - just personal choice, nothing against the other decals!
Pete's plates are a little thicker than the originals, and the backs are not painted (the originals are painted silver including the cut outs in the speedo). I decided to paint mine silver - as per original: A few other observations:
- As Petes' plates are a little thicker, one of the needles was rubbing the surface of the new plate - I had to remove a little from the back of the needle (there's a heat weld on the back which I needed to trim)
- I also got my "idiot lights" re-lettered by Pete (well worth doing).
- I painted the clock bezels before re-crimping them. In the end, I damaged the paint (slightly) while re-crimping, so had to paint them again.
- Having got nice new orange plates, the needles look very faded - you really need to paint that aswell. I used modellers paint (Fluorescent Red) which was a good match.
- The screws holding the face plates on are pretty tight - you need a really good fitting screwdriver to get them out. I destroyed one of mine - thanks to Pete for providing a replacement.
Repainting the bezels: Painted Needle: Here's the finished result: Well worth the effort / cost of doing it in my opinion.
(My thanks to Pete for helping me with this along the way)
Paul.
As the original clocks were faded, I decided to spruce them up somewhat.
I started off using these decals:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBX1000 ... Sw7NNUBvyK
These are "stickers" which you apply to your existing clock plates. The process is you sand down the plates to remove the existing paint, and to get back to the original orange plates. Depending on how faded your plates are, you have to sand away quite a lot of the plate - a few mm so the plate does get significantly thinner.
Starting point: After removing black paint to reveal faded underlying plate: After sanding until all faded orange is removed and the decal before applying to the plate: After applying the decal: The finish was OK but decided to compare it to the clock plates sold by Pete Rose (DigitalPizza). Pete's plates are on the bottom: I decided to go with Pete's plates in the end - just personal choice, nothing against the other decals!
Pete's plates are a little thicker than the originals, and the backs are not painted (the originals are painted silver including the cut outs in the speedo). I decided to paint mine silver - as per original: A few other observations:
- As Petes' plates are a little thicker, one of the needles was rubbing the surface of the new plate - I had to remove a little from the back of the needle (there's a heat weld on the back which I needed to trim)
- I also got my "idiot lights" re-lettered by Pete (well worth doing).
- I painted the clock bezels before re-crimping them. In the end, I damaged the paint (slightly) while re-crimping, so had to paint them again.
- Having got nice new orange plates, the needles look very faded - you really need to paint that aswell. I used modellers paint (Fluorescent Red) which was a good match.
- The screws holding the face plates on are pretty tight - you need a really good fitting screwdriver to get them out. I destroyed one of mine - thanks to Pete for providing a replacement.
Repainting the bezels: Painted Needle: Here's the finished result: Well worth the effort / cost of doing it in my opinion.
(My thanks to Pete for helping me with this along the way)
Paul.
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Merry Xmas
Not quite finished, but almost there: I have finished until after Xmas.
Merry Xmas to you all.
Paul.
Not quite finished, but almost there: I have finished until after Xmas.
Merry Xmas to you all.
Paul.
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- NobleHops
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Bravo! Merry Christmas to you as well!
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Very nice work, Paul and thanks for the write-up.
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Hi,
I have '79 carbs and a later '81/'82 cylinder head.
Question is what carb rubbers should I use between the head and carbs? Does it make a difference in using the '79 rubbers or the later / different '81 rubbers?
I have a leak at the moment, and not sure if I need to replace the rubbers, or if it's a result of having the wrong type fitted (it's got '79 rubbers on at the moment)
thanks,
Paul.
I have '79 carbs and a later '81/'82 cylinder head.
Question is what carb rubbers should I use between the head and carbs? Does it make a difference in using the '79 rubbers or the later / different '81 rubbers?
I have a leak at the moment, and not sure if I need to replace the rubbers, or if it's a result of having the wrong type fitted (it's got '79 rubbers on at the moment)
thanks,
Paul.
- FalldownPhil
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
The carbs are all the same externally. The '79 insulators should be correct.
Best,
Phil
Best,
Phil
When you are up to your ass in alligators it is sometimes difficult
to remember that your objective was to drain the swamp !!
to remember that your objective was to drain the swamp !!
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Well, it depends what airbox you are using. The carb rubber boots are different because of the airbox. If you use a 79/80 airbox, use 79/80 rubbers. If you use a 81/82 airbox , use 81/82 rubbers.
On the 81/82 models Honda changed the airflow to a more horizontal level. As a result, the manifold rubbers are ever so slightly "wedge" shaped in order to drop the carbs down at the rear.
Consequently, the openings in the airbox, that receive the carbs are slightly lower.
There are many, who ignore this and mix and match. And I guess, if you don't bother and apply a little more force than you usually have to when something fits nicely, it will work.
On the 81/82 models Honda changed the airflow to a more horizontal level. As a result, the manifold rubbers are ever so slightly "wedge" shaped in order to drop the carbs down at the rear.
Consequently, the openings in the airbox, that receive the carbs are slightly lower.
There are many, who ignore this and mix and match. And I guess, if you don't bother and apply a little more force than you usually have to when something fits nicely, it will work.
- FalldownPhil
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Thanks Mike !!
Best,
Phil
Best,
Phil
When you are up to your ass in alligators it is sometimes difficult
to remember that your objective was to drain the swamp !!
to remember that your objective was to drain the swamp !!
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
OK - that helps a lot. I was pretty sure that the carbs were identical externally, so had thought that maybe the cylinder head had been changed a little and as a result needed the different rubbers.EMS wrote:Well, it depends what airbox you are using. The carb rubber boots are different because of the airbox. If you use a 79/80 airbox, use 79/80 rubbers. If you use a 81/82 airbox , use 81/82 rubbers.
On the 81/82 models Honda changed the airflow to a more horizontal level. As a result, the manifold rubbers are ever so slightly "wedge" shaped in order to drop the carbs down at the rear.
Consequently, the openings in the airbox, that receive the carbs are slightly lower.
There are many, who ignore this and mix and match. And I guess, if you don't bother and apply a little more force than you usually have to when something fits nicely, it will work.
I have stock '79 airbox, so '79 rubbers it is.
Paul.
- Jeff Bennetts
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
What Phil said, you always match the intake rubbers to whatever year the airbox assembly is from, the head and carb dimensions are the same across the years.FalldownPhil wrote:The carbs are all the same externally. The '79 insulators should be correct.
Best,
Phil
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Finished
Just to finish off this thread.
Bike now finished:
- fixed cam cover oil leak - changed to an original Honda gasket (the previous one was a new one from an aftermarket gasket kit) and used new rubbers in the end.
- Leak on carb connecting rubbers sorted - just reseated / tightened everything up.
A few pictures: I briefly had a matching pair: Both of the bikes are now sold. This will fund my next restorations - another 1000Z, and just for a change have a Z1A to do:
Paul.
Just to finish off this thread.
Bike now finished:
- fixed cam cover oil leak - changed to an original Honda gasket (the previous one was a new one from an aftermarket gasket kit) and used new rubbers in the end.
- Leak on carb connecting rubbers sorted - just reseated / tightened everything up.
A few pictures: I briefly had a matching pair: Both of the bikes are now sold. This will fund my next restorations - another 1000Z, and just for a change have a Z1A to do:
Paul.
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- FalldownPhil
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Stunning !!
Best,
Phil
Best,
Phil
When you are up to your ass in alligators it is sometimes difficult
to remember that your objective was to drain the swamp !!
to remember that your objective was to drain the swamp !!
- NobleHops
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Tremendous project, great content for everyone to enjoy. Thank you so much for sharing this with us Paul, great job.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
Excellent work, Paul.
From afar it doesn't look like the next one needs much but it would be great if you did a thread on that resto as well.
We always seem to learn a couple things from each project.
From afar it doesn't look like the next one needs much but it would be great if you did a thread on that resto as well.
We always seem to learn a couple things from each project.
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Re: CBX 1000Z Restoration - Candy Glory Red this time!
The silver Z is a UK bike - been off the road for 15 years and doesn't run (just the carbs I think). It's pretty complete / original, not sure whether I will do a full restoration, or just get it running as a usable bike. Will take a closer look at this week.steve murdoch icoa #5322 wrote:Excellent work, Paul.
From afar it doesn't look like the next one needs much but it would be great if you did a thread on that resto as well.
We always seem to learn a couple things from each project.
I am also looking at another UK Z tomorrow (a red one), carbs need doing (as always) but told is otherwise OK. Assuming it as they say it is, will probably get that one.
Is it a just a hobby or more an addiction...difficult to tell the difference!
Paul.