It would probably be easier and safer to remove the wheel, so you can take the fork tubes off the bike. You'll need to be able to easily compress the forks all the way to change the oil. Likely, you'll need to flush them out with some mineral spirits to clean out the crud and it's helpful if you can invert them to drainSamelak wrote:I guess I need to drain my forks empty while the bike sits on centerstand and let the front end collapse. Then remove the fork tops and springs. Refill to within 7.5 inches from the top
It all depends. What Rick is explaining to you is that if you overfill the forks with oil, the remaining air in the fork will compress pretty quickly when the forks compress under braking and that makes them stiffer . . . . not stiff enough? Add more oil (I think Dave McMunn fills them to 6 inches from the top) . . . . or go to heavier fork oil and add more oil. Too soft when not compressed? Add a longer spring spacer on top of the springsReinstall springs and tops. Do I need compress the front a couple of times and recheck the level? Will I need to add air afterwards? Am I missing anything? I will probably start with 10W since I'm 6'2", 220lbs.
Samelak wrote:Well, I was hoping to do this without pulling the forks out. Since I have to remove the forks, would it be worthwhile to upgrade to progressive springs and then add 10w fork oil to the 7.5 inch mark? The springs aren't really expensive and if its saves me the trouble of having to remove/replace the forks several times to get the adjustment right. I'm not an aggressive rider, but I do prefer a bit stiffer ride.
Thanks for everyones' input,
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