Supertrap Exhaust part needed


Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby johnod » Thu Nov 11, 2010 10:28 pm

Recently i took my exhaust off to repair a stripped stud, and discovered a missing part.

I have a Supertrap 6 into 2 stainless system, there are small nipples or spigots which slide into the end of each pipe where they bolt to the head.
I'm missing one.
Does anyone have a spare or know where i might get one?

Thanks for any help.

John
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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby NobleHops » Fri Nov 12, 2010 11:41 am

johnod wrote:Recently i took my exhaust off to repair a stripped stud, and discovered a missing part.

I have a Supertrap 6 into 2 stainless system, there are small nipples or spigots which slide into the end of each pipe where they bolt to the head.
I'm missing one.
Does anyone have a spare or know where i might get one?

Thanks for any help.

John


I think I have heard of those called 'riv nuts'? If it's what I'm thinking of it allows insertion of an EGA into the exhaust stream. Is this what you're referring to? A picture is worth...

http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut.html

N.
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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby barryadam » Fri Nov 12, 2010 12:04 pm

I think he's referring to the pieces in the middle of this pic...

Image
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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby johnod » Fri Nov 12, 2010 12:06 pm

barryadam wrote:I think he's referring to the pieces in the middle of this pic...

Image



Thats it exactly the pieces in the middle. I need one if any one has a spare.

Thanks
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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby barryadam » Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:30 pm

Sorry, all I have is the six. How did one get lost?

Love working with stainless. It cleans up better than new. When I bought these, they looked like this...

Image

Image
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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby barryadam » Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:31 pm

Now they look like this....

Image

Image

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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby johnod » Fri Nov 12, 2010 2:30 pm

Barry

Those look great,what did you use on them?

Re the lost piece, my bike came that way apparently, when i took exhaust off, one clamp fell off,this is when I discovered these pieces. looking high and low did not turn up missing piece tho I'd only moved pipe a few feet. I concluded it came that way.
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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby barryadam » Fri Nov 12, 2010 2:46 pm

johnod wrote:Barry

Those look great,what did you use on them?


Image

Industrial pickle/passivate treatment.

Image

You should be able to get one fabbed for cheap at a muffler shop. Lots of these shops have stainless tubing and forming tools, especially if they deal with "custom" performance systems.

Also, there are lots of ss aftermarket automotive exhaust manufacturers. There are several here in S. Cal that make hot rod and boat exhausts. They should be able to fab something using existing tools and tubing.

You might try the Supertrapp factory. Do a search on the CBX forums first. There's a thread about someone finding the right guy at ST and getting obsolete cones to weld up and make a new inner baffle for our pipes.

Good luck

Barry
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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby Don » Fri Nov 12, 2010 6:54 pm

johnod wrote:Those look great,what did you use on them?
I use sandpaper and lots of water on my all stainless Pipemasters. Wetsand with #1000, then #2000 and finally #3000 . . . . no polishing needed - When you're done, they look like brand new chrome

You can use the same technique on the sides of your airbox - Wet sand with #600 to clean it up and then progress through #1000 and #1500 - Then a coat of wax will have it looking brand new . . . . much better than painting it, IMO

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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby NobleHops » Sat Nov 13, 2010 12:19 am

barryadam wrote:Now they look like this....
Barry


Amazing results. Any more info? This is all new to me, and valuable knowledge.

N.
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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby barryadam » Sat Nov 13, 2010 1:09 am

NilsMenten wrote:Any more info? This is all new to me, and valuable knowledge.

N.


HERE'S A GOOD EXPLANATION
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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby NobleHops » Sat Nov 13, 2010 1:46 am

Awesome:

Passivation

Stainless Passivation See Photos of Passivating

In years gone by, the process specified was to "pickle and passivate" - a two step method - in order to create a surface on stainless steel that would be resistant to corrosion. Today, we differentiate between the two. It is two separate processes. Pickling (or Chemical Descaling) is done to remove scale. Passivation of stainless steel is done to make the surface more passive and corrosion resistant.
Stainless Passivation

The passivation of stainless steel is a process performed to make a surface passive, i.e., a surface film is created that causes the surface to lose its chemical reactivity. Stainless steel passivation unipotentializes the stainless steel with the oxygen absorbed by the metal surface, creating a monomolecular oxide film. Passivation can result in the very much-desired low corrosion rate of the metal.

The passivation of stainless steel is performed when free iron, oxide scale, rust, iron particles, metal chips or other nonvolatile deposits might adversely affect the metallurgical or sanitary condition or stability of the surface, the mechanical operation of a part, component or system, or contaminate the process fluid.

Passivation is performed on clean stainless steel, providing the surface has been thoroughly cleaned or descaled. Since the term "passivation" is used to describe distinctly different operations or processes relating to stainless steels, it is necessary to define precisely what is meant by passivation.
What is Stainless Steel Passivation?

Stainless passivation is the process by which stainless steel will spontaneously form a chemically inactive surface when exposed to air or other oxygen-containing environments. Some important facts to know when considering stainless steel passivation:

* Steels containing more than 11% Chromium are capable of forming an invisible, inert or passive, self-repairing oxide film on their surface. It is this passive layer that gives stainless steels their corrosion resistance.
* If a stainless steel surface is scratched, then more Chromium is exposed which reacts with oxygen allowing the passive layer to reform. However, if a particle of carbon steel is embedded in the scratch then the passive layer cannot reform and corrosion will occur when the metal is wetted or exposed to a corrosive environment.
* Stainless passivation is the chemical treatment of a stainless steel surface with a mild oxidant such as citric acid passivation solution. This process is to accelerate the process noted above in No. 1.
* Passivation is the removal of exogenous iron or iron compounds from the surface of stainless steel by means of a chemical dissolution, most typically by a treatment with an citric acid passivation solution that will remove the surface contamination but will not significantly affect the stainless steel itself.
* Passivation also is accomplished by electropolishing. Electropolishing is an electrochemical process that is a super passivator of stainless steel and results in a more passive surface than the other methods mentioned above.

This last step is necessary because during handling and processing such as rolling, forming, machining, pressing, tumbling, and lapping, particles of iron or tool steel or abrasive particles may be embedded in or smeared on or into the surfaces of stainless steel components. If allowed to remain, these particles may corrode and produce rust spots on the stainless steel. This is due to the formation of a galvanic couple between two dissimilar metals that can promote a corrosive reaction. To dissolve the embedded or smeared iron and prevent this condition, as well as restore the original corrosion-resistant surface, semi-finished or finished parts are given a 'passivation' treatment.
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Re: Supertrap Exhaust part needed

Postby Jeff Bennetts » Thu Nov 18, 2010 8:41 pm

Once you get them clean, Bon-Ami polishing cleanser (used mostly for sinks and pots and pans) will maintain the shine for you. It contains no phosphorus, is boidegradable and costs about 99 cents for a can.
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