Wouldn't it be nice?
- NobleHops
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 3872
- Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:17 am
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Wouldn't it be nice?
Men,
I am working through the last teething pains of getting my vapour blast equipment setup - can't seem to furnish enough power to keep both the compressor and the blaster running at the same time, but we're going to try upping the amperage and wire of my circuit today and see if that finally cures it. I CAN however stockpile a bit of air, shut off teh compressor and fire up the blaster long enough to start practicing on it though .
Wouldn't it be nice to start with parts like these for your next project?
I am working through the last teething pains of getting my vapour blast equipment setup - can't seem to furnish enough power to keep both the compressor and the blaster running at the same time, but we're going to try upping the amperage and wire of my circuit today and see if that finally cures it. I CAN however stockpile a bit of air, shut off teh compressor and fire up the blaster long enough to start practicing on it though .
Wouldn't it be nice to start with parts like these for your next project?
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
- asacuta
- Forum Regular
- Posts: 156
- Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:21 pm
- Location: Calgary
- Location: Calgary
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
Purdy. Will those nice shiny parts require paint or other coating, or can you leave them bare and polish them with a cloth every now and then?
Al
-
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 10151
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 7:55 am
- Location: North East OH, ICOA 3904
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
Wowser! Brace yourself to receive some packages from Ohio with parts to be done!
- NobleHops
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 3872
- Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:17 am
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
The process seals off the pores of the aluminum such that things like magic marker pretty much wipe off, but of course it is bare aluminum and it will oxidize over time. Similar to polishing clutch or sprocket covers on the CBX: if you keep up with it once a year it will stay lovely, but I'm pretty sure it will slightly darken over time, for good or ill. To answer your question more directly now, yes, I think in some instances you might like to clearcoat over the part once you've got the finish you want.asacuta wrote:Purdy. Will those nice shiny parts require paint or other coating, or can you leave them bare and polish them with a cloth every now and then?
The finish is just short of super-smooth - you'd pronounce it perfect for a cylinder or finned head, or any rough-cast part, or the center of a wheel hub. IMO some parts will need some additional hand finishing to look just right: Fork sliders for example, typically have fine lines around their circumference, side covers are satin-smooth. For me, most parts are going to need hand-finishing after this step, but it is still worth it to start out with virgin aluminum that is spotlessly clean and consistent. I will try my best to set expectations accurately when people send me parts, and I will also try my best to coach them how to get the perfect resulting finish for various surfaces post-blasting, just as soon as I feel like I have a handle on what that all is, that is
There are other media for me to experiment with - this is #8 glass bead, which is pretty much the default, but there are also plastic and ceramic media to try, plus pre-blasting with dry glass beads in some instances will be used when oxidization or janky clearcoat is particularly heavy. IOW, there is more to know, and I don't know it yet, but I'm on my way.
N.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
- NobleHops
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 3872
- Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:17 am
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
I would be delighted! Just as soon as my confidence and knowledge is a bit further evolvedEMS wrote:Wowser! Brace yourself to receive some packages from Ohio with parts to be done!
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
-
- Power Poster
- Posts: 302
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2014 6:59 pm
- Location: Canada
- Location: Canada
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
I know the generic answer is: "google" on some forums, but I am extremely interested in knowing this process. I have mucho aluminum that I would love to refurbish. My nighthawk, origin of my user name especially is a bike that I am focusing on refurbish over restore as sort of a sentimental bit. The ability to just clean without powdercoating and all that stuff would be fantastic and sure able to be applied to other bikes.
- NobleHops
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 3872
- Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:17 am
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
RJ CB650 wrote:I know the generic answer is: "google" on some forums, but I am extremely interested in knowing this process. I have mucho aluminum that I would love to refurbish. My nighthawk, origin of my user name especially is a bike that I am focusing on refurbish over restore as sort of a sentimental bit. The ability to just clean without powdercoating and all that stuff would be fantastic and sure able to be applied to other bikes.
It's frankly amazing. Process can vary a little bit depending on the part.
1. Inspect it, look for flaws, dings, ferrous metal parts that need to be removed or masked. It's a good idea to plug passages and threads, although the bead does rinse off if you get right after it, that's just considered good practice. Somebearing surfaces might ought to be masked, but some guys do not.
2. Degrease it if it's gnarly - I have a parts washer and a big commercial kitchen sink for pre-clean and rinse-off.
3. Preblast if the oxide is very heavy - that's with glass beads in the Trinco. Takes off the heavy alu oxide, but you have to go gently on aluminum.
4. Wetblast.
5. Rinse-off inside the blaster and again in the big sink.
6. Blast it dry with compressed air, then immediately spray/swab any ferrous parts/inserts with WD-40
More results from some experimentation yesterday:
I had hand-cleaned and finished a pair of fork legs, had called them 'done', would have rebuilt and installed them. I used abrasives and then finished them with grey Scotchbright and WD40 to restore the lines you customarily see on these, then polished them with Autosol.
I took the pair, blasted one part, left the other one alone.
Blasted part is on the left in these photos:
Blasted parts on the RIGHT in these:
The blasted part is so uniform it looks painted, but hitting the part with Autosol or similar metal polish brings up more shine and darkens it a skosh. In some cases I think the part might need some additional hand finishing or polish to look just right, but its a hellofa good starting point to be spotless and uniform and have all the oxidation layer gone first. But in fact many folks will say, "Yipee" and bolt them up as is, and be delighted. They're definitely good to go with zero additional finishing on everything rough-cast.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
-
- ICOA Web Post/Pix/Video Archive Mgt
- Posts: 2207
- Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:32 pm
- Location: Brighton, MI
- Location: Brighton, Mich
- Contact:
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
Years ago, I dealt with a prototype parts supplier who finished his parts with vapor blasting. Prettiest things you ever saw. Put a surface on them smoother than a baby's landing cushion. A little extra polishing with some rouge past and they will truly shine! Just give them a good wax job to prevent/slow oxidizing.
Larry Zimmer
cbxlarry@sbcglobal.net
cbxlarry@sbcglobal.net
-
- Power Poster
- Posts: 302
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2014 6:59 pm
- Location: Canada
- Location: Canada
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
Well, time to make more room in the garage. Good thing is all set up for a 240v air compressor and the whole thing is plumbed with fixed air lines
- NobleHops
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 3872
- Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:17 am
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
RJ CB650 wrote:Well, time to make more room in the garage. Good thing is all set up for a 240v air compressor and the whole thing is plumbed with fixed air lines
Well...
You're going to need 35 CFM at 80 PSI, which pretty much means a 10 HP compressor. Getting a single phase 10 HP compressor mostly limits you to tandem models, $4-5k and up. The blasters can be had in single phase though, kinda wish I had.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
-
- Power Poster
- Posts: 302
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2014 6:59 pm
- Location: Canada
- Location: Canada
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
That is actually part of the plan. Garage is set up so that when done configuring it (and finish some other construction) I can seal off half of it for painting and things just like that. Oh, and is set up for three phase :3 Mmm... POWER!!!!NobleHops wrote: Well...
You're going to need 35 CFM at 80 PSI, which pretty much means a 10 HP compressor. Getting a single phase 10 HP compressor mostly limits you to tandem models, $4-5k and up. The blasters can be had in single phase though, kinda wish I had.
Edit, Derp, brain short, single phase.... It was with the garage when I got the house. I actually had a family member who is more knowledgeable about said things set it up. Am tired and have not thought about it in a while... Well, either way, is all configured for what I need when I set it up. A higher power compressor was in the plan... sorry for confusion.
-
- ICOA Technical Director
- Posts: 4754
- Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 8:05 am
- Location: Knox, PA
- Location: Knox, PA
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
Nils - is 3-phase power available to your building? If so, you may want to really consider going that route. 3-phase converters have very little KVA rating for what they cost. Best way is to put 277/480 3-phase service to the building, then install dry transformers to step DOWN voltage for other things. Power is much cleaner that way too.
Dave
Dave
-
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 10151
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 7:55 am
- Location: North East OH, ICOA 3904
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
I had a really bad experience with an air compressor set-up. After a while, the noise became unbearable. Finally relocated the unit outside into a shed and ran lines inside.
- NobleHops
- ICOA Member
- Posts: 3872
- Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:17 am
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
- Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
daves79x wrote:Nils - is 3-phase power available to your building? If so, you may want to really consider going that route. 3-phase converters have very little KVA rating for what they cost. Best way is to put 277/480 3-phase service to the building, then install dry transformers to step DOWN voltage for other things. Power is much cleaner that way too.
Dave
I wish Dave. I've got about 4K into the setup between the phase converter, transformer, and the wiring of it all. Sitting on a pallet 8 feet in the air bolting the 230-lb transformer to the wall was a treat too. At this point I wish I had simply moved to a shop that had the three-phase power, and I will when the day comes. This has been a PITA.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)
- Goss
- Forum Regular
- Posts: 159
- Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:13 am
- Location: West Sussex, England
- Location: West Sussex, England
- Contact:
Re: Wouldn't it be nice?
Nice work Nils,
Have a look at http://www.acf-50.co.uk I think this could be your next purchase
Regards
Steve
Have a look at http://www.acf-50.co.uk I think this could be your next purchase
Regards
Steve
Onboard http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqWSsdKtd64
Bike http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofjFhEd3
Bike http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofjFhEd3