Restoring Gas Tank / Need split view of Gas Tank

[4jbshere]

Hi All,

Working on restoring my gas tank. Flushed the tank with hot water and soap and trying to get as much of the rust out as possible. Some has come out, but it sounds like there is more in there and no matter how I turn it, flip it or shake it, I just cant seem to get everything out. I plan to add molasses after this step, but I would like to get more crud out of there first.

Any suggestions? Anyone have a slip diagram or picture of the inside structure of the tank?

Many thanks,

John

[EMS]

I have found that glass from a broken car windshield works really nice as an abrasive to remove residue in an old gas tank. It can easily be flushed out and if small pieces are left, they don't create rust pockest like any metal parts would.
The CBX tank may be a little large to tumble in a laundry dryer, but even doing that by hand should yield decent results.

[Jeff Bennetts]

I made this in a pinch so I could spin the tank 360 degrees when I coat tanks, I use the POR-15 tank lining system.

[4jbshere]

Jeff - that's pretty cool. How many tanks have you treated with the POR-15 ? It seems like POR 15 is the better lining product.

[Jeff Bennetts]

I have done a half dozen or so tanks with the POR-15 tank sealing system, as far as I know none of them have leaked.

There are other good products out there but I like the 3 step process that comes with the POR-15, just makes it simpler. Like the other products out there the prep has a lot to do with it and it's all there for you in kit form, you can also buy the POR-15 Marine Clean, Metal Prep and the tank sealer separate if you want to.

It's important that you get as much of the rust scale out of the tank as you can, I use a length of dog chain, it's more abrasive than a smooth link chain, that rotisserie I cobbled together works good for that because you can rock the tank back and forth.

Then just follow the instructions with the kit, the tank has to be completely dry before applying the sealer.

[barryadam]

If you going to repaint, you can plate the tank instead of coating it. Electroless Nickel is very effective, and is a solution plating, not line-of-sight, like anode-cathod plating.

Here are some of my examples:











Barry

[Jeff Bennetts]

If you going to repaint, you can plate the tank instead of coating it. Electroless Nickel is very effective, and is a solution plating, not line-of-sight, like anode-cathod plating.

Here are some of my examples:

Barry

That looks great Barry, can elaborate on the process?

Thanks,
Jeff

[barryadam]

1.) Find a local shop that does electroless nickel plating (or stroll the Caswell site, if you're adventurous). Usually plating houses do several other type of plating as well. If you find a Chrome plater or industrial zinc place, they can tell you who to go to for Electroless Nickel.
2.) Ask if they do custom auto stuff. You know, small batches, antique parts, MOTORCYCLES. Luckily, Southern California has plenty.
3.) strip all of the exterior paint. Use paint stripper and Roloc disks.
4.) weld / braze any pinholes, cracks, creases, leaks. repair any threads (weld, drill, re-thread)
5.) use a pin weld tool to attach pins and pull any major dents. grind off the welded pins.
6.) Take tank to your plater. He will clean in immersion tanks using various hot solutions, and then nickel plate. Coverage is inside and out. Guys that know what they are doing will replenish the nickel solution several times to ensure good coverage.
7.) Pick up and pay for the tank at the plater's and ask yourself why you did not bring your exhaust studs along with the tank, exhaust baffles, and exhaust half retainers.


8.) Take the tank to your Professional painter.
9.) Take pictures and share with others. Everyone like pictures.
10.) Explain to anyone that will listen that you have a more corrosion resistant finish than the original formed steel, and the plating will not flake, chip, or come off at the edges of the filler neck, petcock threads, etc. no matter what the temperature range fluctuation, hard impacts, or chemicals.

Barry

[EMS]

A1 instructions, Barry! Definitely worth printing!