The Travesty

[CopperCollar]

By the looks of that oil pan something was self destructing, unless that isn't ferrous materials I see laying there.

Could be, there is a cog and shift fork that look iffy....wear wise.

Mike

[CCrider]

Good luck with your project. It's good to see an neglected CBX restored.

[daves79x]

Mike:
Just got back from 3 days of storm restoration and catching up. I have a C3 rod you can have. I'll digest everything else here and post some more later. Got your PM!

Dave

[CopperCollar]

Thanks Dave.

I had to work this weekend so not much was done. I did look over the frame and now have it stripped. looks like this girls is going to need a lot. The headlight bracket is bent, headlight case is cracked, instrument cluster is warped, speedo is whacked, cushions shot, nearly every bolt is rusted, overall...a real challenge ahead.

The engine looks like she never had an oil change. I think I'll have the crank spec checked and replace the bearings.

I have a few main bearings like this:

One of the main journals:

Number one rod journal:

The shifter fork:

Same shifter fork:

The cog:

[daves79x]

Mike:
Looks like some problem with the shift fork and possibly the oil delivery to the matching gear. You might keep your eye out for a complete trans shaft. Lots of cheap ones on eBay it seems. Shift forks as well, but maybe check with Honda for a new one of those. I don't see anything in the crank pics that's fatal, as long as the new bearings plastigauge OK.

You seem to be doing fine so far. Let me know if you want the rod.

Dave

[CopperCollar]

Dave, what would cause a lack of lubrication to that shaft? Every thing else looks good so why only that cog and fork?

Mike

[daves79x]

Mike:
The only thing you can do is disassemble the shaft and see if something is plugging the oil holes. Never really saw that happen, but something caused your unusual wear.

Dave

[tombatt]

Any chance of getting the two dates off this bike? The Vin date is on the steering head compliance plate and the engine date is on the back of the gearbox just above the swing-arm. On this bike it will start with 53

[CopperCollar]

Vin is 4-78 CB1-2001023
CB1E-2001502

Block is at the machine shop being cleaned, I remember the # 53 but not the others.

Mike

[CopperCollar]

got the block back today....53 4. 7 28.

So how do you read this code tombatt?

Mike

[tombatt]

Hi Mike,
New to this forum and could see there were unread posts, but didn't notice the second page. The Japanese Showa year 53 equates to our 1978. (google Showa53) Therefore the date of that engine is 7th April 1978 Engine is usually built about a month before bike assembly in another location, so your vin date (also 4/78) suggests your fully assembled bike came off the line very late in April 78. The figure "28" (often below the date) is a guy counting off the number of engines to be dispatched that day to the assembly hall. I was hoping it was the actual sequential number built that day, but it's beginning to look like just a random count. Highest I've recorded so far is 111 which is close to a full day's production at that time. I'd like to start a new thread and see if others would be equally helpful. Cheers Tom Battisson Australia

[daves79x]

Tom:
Good to hear from you after many years! We're still alive and kicking over here. Your bit of info about the engine build date is very interesting. I don't think I've ever heard it explained before. I just knew each case half matched by those numbers. Of course, lots of cases have been scrubbed clean of numbers and repainted. I've always tried to mask off the rear to preserve them, but most don't. Don't be a stranger here.

Dave

[cbx6ss]

Hi all,
Some good info through this thread as I am at the epicenter of my engine recondition for my project... I am on crank and rod bearings right now. Trying to ID what I have.
CYL ROD ID CRANK CODE
1 3 A
2 2 A
3 3 B
4 2 B
5 1 B
6 3 B

Regarding Rod Bearings, having trouble ID'ing color codes. Each bearing has a part number starting with "H24S", then either "OL29F", or "OL45D". Does the second ID the color? Here's pix:

Thank you
Brad

[daves79x]

Brad:

I don't know about the ID numbers on the bearing shells, but you usually can see a splotch of paint on the edges. No matter - just go to the chart in the service manual and use what you know for sure - the rod/crank/case ID codes and match them up. Guarantee that's what color bearing is there if it hasn't been messed with. But you don't even have to know that if you aren't ordering new bearings. If the bearings look good, just plastigauge them all and if within spec, button it back up.

Dave

[cbx6ss]

Dave,
Thank you for your info. I had the crank polished. No significant issues. Some minor scratches in crank and rod shells. Plasti-gaged the mains. All within spec. Since I never want to split the case again, I thought I would replace the main and rod shells. I believe I need the following:

MAINS
2 sets BROWN 13316-422-003
5 sets GREEN 13317-422-003
RODS
2 sets BLACK 13215-413-004
2 sets BROWN 13216-413-003
2 sets GREEN 13217-413-003

If anyone has any of these for sale, or recommended sources please let me know.
Thank you.
/r
Brad