Non abrasive cleaning

[Kool_Biker]

What's the best way to clean brake parts NON ABRASIVELY?
Surely one can go in with a (soft) brush, but there must be a better way to get rid of most of the surface dirt and oxidation, before a final polish?

P1100844.jpg

Cheers, Aris

[EMS]

I use spray-on brake cleaner and a soft nylon or brass brush. Then I also have a commercial parts washer at my disposal, that cleans with 175°F solvent.

[Kool_Biker]

Mike, thanks.
My room temperature parts washers and lots of elbow grease with hard nylon brushes did the job in the end.
But could you pls tell us more about your hi temp parts washer. May be a manufacturer's link and a bit about your experience.
Sounds interesting ...
Aris

[EMS]

Mike, thanks.
But could you pls tell us more about your hi temp parts washer. May be a manufacturer's link and a bit about your experience.
Sounds interesting ...
Aris

Aris: It is a $15,000 commercial parts washer we have at the company

[Kool_Biker]

So?
I'm planning to buy two (in case I break one) ...

But seriously Mike, some people seem to have all the luck !!!

Aris

[EMS]

Here you go, Aris. It is considered a "small to medium size" unit manufactured by JRI in Springfield, MO. Distributed by SafetyKleen.
It connects to 460Volt 3-phase. The baskets can be removed. If I remove the upper, I can wash a complete CBX engine in there.
It comes in handy, if you have to remove paint from a large part. Spray it with paint stripper and then put it in the washer for 30 minuets and it comes out spanky clean.
The solvent in the washing fluid may leave a residue when you let it dry, so you should flush the part with clean water.

[BiPolarBear]

Now I KNOW I'm a sick puppy. It may be that I'm just middle-aged, and losing the passion of youth, but industrial level tools like that make my nipples hard. If I hit the lottery, I'm getting one....

[Jeff Bennetts]

Now I KNOW I'm a sick puppy. It may be that I'm just middle-aged, and losing the passion of youth, but industrial level tools like that make my nipples hard. If I hit the lottery, I'm getting one....

Diamond hard or just rock hard?

[barryadam]

What's the best way to clean brake parts NON ABRASIVELY?
Surely one can go in with a (soft) brush, but there must be a better way to get rid of most of the surface dirt and oxidation, before a final polish?
Cheers, Aris

Aris,

My project '79 CBX rear master cylinder looks WORSE than yours. I'll post pics when it's done, but basically, I did the carb dip, chemical strip, and solvent clean, ultrasonic, then I used my blast cabinet with 0000 glass beads (basically powder, like soda), and reduced air pressure (50 -60 psi) to clean up the corroded aluminum. The glass beads do not "cut", and being so fine, and with little air pressure, they don't even peen the surface like normal bead blasting would. Just lightly clean.
I make small wheels for the Dremel using punch-outs from extra-fine scotchbrite disks, and ran that lightly in the end of the bore that had some corrosion. I measured to verify the plunger seal will be located in a clean part of the bore when at rest.

My next step is to have the m/c anodized. I have some Honda VF1000R front calipers that are not painted, and the piston bores are like new because of the anodize treatment. It seems to hold up really well against the typical white crust deposits/corrosion in the brake systems. I'm having the rear caliper done, as well.

After anodizing the rear master cylinder and caliper, I'll have the exterior powder coated, and they will look like the original.

And, yes, I've gaged the tiny pressure relief hole so that I can ensure it is the exact same size when I'm done.

Barry

[EMS]

My next step is to have the m/c anodized. Barry

Barry: Apply care when you anodize the bore. The diameter will change and the proper fit of the piston and seals must be verified.

[barryadam]

Barry: Apply care when you anodize the bore. The diameter will change and the proper fit of the piston and seals must be verified.

Will do, Mike.
Thanks.