Syscrush wrote:[ Thanks also for sharing your experience with lowering pegs on your other bike(s). Even if it isn't a night & day difference, my knees are such a mess that I'd like to do what I can to reduce the stress on 'em a bit. .
Phil: A friend of mine (and member here) had the same problem on his 79 CBX. He was quite tall and the standard rider peg position was very uncomfortable for him. He usually rode around with his feet on the passenger pegs. That made him explore to have a set of custom pegs made that would put his feet further BACK, not necessarily much down. That helped a lot.
I have the same experience. Once your feet move back (as in rearsets) the knees drop down and the position becomes more comfortable. You may feel a little more load on your arms.
From my own experience, I know that every body is different - and mine isn't the same now as it was even 5 years ago.
I still prefer very sporty rearsets & low clip-ons for track riding, where I'm only on the bike for ~20 mins every hour. When I had my SV650S with semi-aggressive ergos, moving my feet back a bit helped with long days in the saddle. My Duke 690 with dirtbike-like ergos was OK, but the seating position was a bit too upright and the pegs too far forward. No matter how I started out, I would always end up humping the tank on that bike as I moved forward to get the seat-to-foot position right - which had the effect of bringing me a bit too close to the bars.
My planned change from Tomaselli clip-ons to handlebars will get my upper body up and back a bit, which will let me move back in the seat an inch or two - that plus moving the pegs down about an inch will get me pretty close to the body position that I know I like.
BTW - with both the SV and the Duke, the riding position meant that the vast majority of the time, no part of the bike was in my field of view - which is something I became very fond of. I compare it to riding a flying carpet. :)
Anyhow, Knight says that they have 2 peg options that are close and could maybe work. One has the correct 12mm hole, but the hard stop is a bit too short, so the pegs would droop. The other has an 8mm hole but if it were drilled out to 12mm, the hard stop should be OK - IF and only if the 12mm hole were drilled offset, which requires a good drill press at least, more likely a mill.
I'm going with the one that has the 12mm hole and short hard stop - it should be no biggie to have the stop welded up a bit so that the pegs sit as they should.
Phil in Toronto
A cool guy deserves a cool bike, a dork needs a cool bike... Pics of Perry, my '79.
Just wanted to post a couple pics of how I ended up lowering my foot pegs. Ordered a set of 2in lowered pegs from Knight Ind. in Oregon for a Buell Ulysses, had to grind off about 1/32 to get them to slip in the CBX bracket and dill out the hole for the stock shld. bolt, added a 3/32 shim so they sat sq. ( not drooping ). Rotated the brake and shifter pedals one spline. Big improvement in riding position and the cost was $137 on e-bay.
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