Rattle, rattle, rattle


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Lloyd

Rattle, rattle, rattle

Post by Lloyd »

I have a 79, its got somewhere around 50,000 miles on it. Just balanced the carbs, they are really near perfect, checked them twice. Still have a ton of clutch rattle.



If I updated to a 80 clutch, what do I need? Just a basket from a 80? Or the complete clutch assembly?



I hear others have taken steps to modify their 79 clutches, re reviting, replacing rivets with bolts etc etc.. Are any of these methods recommended by you'all?



Thanks for your time!



L.

broook
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Post by broook »

You need to do more than replace the rivets to stop the rattle. The rivets are not the problem. The rubber cushions inside the casing get hard and lose there flexibility and have to be replaced or ,in my case, shimmed with 10 thou shim stock. This will remove a lot of the rattle but not completely. The method used by most members is to replace the clutch with the late model basket.

Lloyd

Rattle rattle

Post by Lloyd »

Thanks, with the method your using, does it end up with no dampening? I guess what I'm saying is that Honda made these with the rubber, or the late model spring setup to dampen vibration for some reason? Is your method now transferring that vibration to some other component in the drive line?



Thanks for your time. Lloyd

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Clutch Rattle

Post by Jim-Jim »

Get hold of Tom Whaley (Rocketman) about a fix he has developed for the clutch rattle. He has prepared an article for the CBXpress but he may be willing to help you early. His solution, while not easy, can be done by one with some proficiency with tools and looks like a very good, long lasting fix for the rattle. I'm surprised he has not posted here already to help you but......

broook
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Re: Rattle rattle

Post by broook »

Lloyd wrote: Is your method now transferring that vibration to some other component in the drive line?



Thanks for your time. Lloyd
No Problem.



It doesn`t appear to. I ground off the rivet heads and punched them out.

I then tapped the holes to accept bolts and then ground down the bolt heads a little to make sure they did not stick out too far and gouge the crank housing. Ten thou shimstock was used to take up the play in the cushions.

So far I have about 8000km put on it with no ill effect.



To test your old one, hold the basket in your left hand and try to move the gear wheel back and forth with your right hand. It will probably move a good bit. Or at least it feels like about 1/32"in.

broook
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Post by broook »

:oops: I forgot to mention I put locktite on the stove bolts. :oops:

Lloyd

Thanks

Post by Lloyd »

Thanks Brook, thanks Jim-Jim, I'm going to look at both of those solutions. It would be cool to have and article on the subject, lots of members seem to have interest.



Thanks again, Lloyd

Frank
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Post by Frank »

All,

Just to let you know my experiences with fitting a prolink clutch housing to a 79 year model.



There is quite some cause for rattles in the drive chain & distribution of a CBX. My machine had done some 15.000 miles when I did the conversion. It turned out that the old clutch was still fine and the difference after fitting the new was minimal. Rattle still there at idle.



The Prolink housing being quite $$$, it is advisable to check your stock housing before ordering, unless you want to be rather safe than sorry.

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Mike Barone #123
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clutches

Post by Mike Barone #123 »

there will be two clutch articles in the summer xpress



if you are have a need info now that might be in these articles send me an email



mike

e = team222@paonline.com

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