Clutch Lever Effort

[Syscrush]

Alright, I'm pretty new here so I hope that this doesn't brand me a wussy for all eternity. :)

Hey all. I know it's a 100hp, 600lbs bike that's >30 years old, but the clutch on my '79 seems really heavy. I don't have any other CBX experience to compare it to, but the bike was well looked after and has new cables, so I assume that it's normal.

Other than ordering a Captains of Crush hand gripper to strengthen my fingers, are there good technical remedies for this? The prospect of being stuck in stop & go traffic with a clutch lever this heavy is not appealing.

[EMS]

Maybe some previous owner replaced the clutch springs with a set of high-performance clutch springs.
I relly don't consider the CBX clutch to be that hard to pull. Then again, this is a very personal perception and depends on what one is used to.
There is hardly anything that can be done easy to reduce lever effort. It's just phyics. There is a certain force required to push the clutch rod against the spring load and disengage the plates and because of the direct transmission to the lever via a cable, that's it. If you would find a lever that would fit, with a different geometry (a larger distance to the pivot point relative to the distance between pivot point and cable connection), that could help. Other than that, a hydraulic conversion would do.
First, I would play with the springs, however, and make sure they are stock. If you have a stock motor, you don't really need performance clutch components.

[Rick Pope]

The other thing that can make the clutch hard to pull is a mis-routed cable. You'd be amazed at how much difference there might be.

[Syscrush]

Maybe some previous owner replaced the clutch springs with a set of high-performance clutch springs.

I wonder the same thing, and will ask the seller.

I relly don't consider the CBX clutch to be that hard to pull. Then again, this is a very personal perception and depends on what one is used to.

For sure. It also depends on how you use it. If I was still living in the town where I grew up, it would be a non-issue. But I live in the core of a city with one of the worse gridlock problems in North America - and despite my efforts to avoid it, now and then I do get stuck in stop-and-go for up to an hour at a time.

Also, I kinda got spoiled lately - my wife's M620 and my old Duke were both <70hp and <400lbs AND equipped with hydraulic APTC low-effort slipper clutches.

There is hardly anything that can be done easy to reduce lever effort. It's just phyics. There is a certain force required to push the clutch rod against the spring load and disengage the plates and because of the direct transmission to the lever via a cable, that's it.

Yup, but:

If you would find a lever that would fit, with a different geometry (a larger distance to the pivot point relative to the distance between pivot point and cable connection), that could help. Other than that, a hydraulic conversion would do.

Or the actuator lever inside the clutch case could be modified such that the effort was decreased and the amount of movement required to disengage was increased.

The hydraulic conversion sounds best, though. And TIMS has a bolt-on kit for about $700. Hmmm... the grip exerciser is cheaper. ;)

First, I would play with the springs, however, and make sure they are stock. If you have a stock motor, you don't really need performance clutch components.

Thanks.

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

If this is the Scott Miller engine i would be surprised if it had the stock set-up.
Kent would know.

[NobleHops]

Tim's has a full bolt-on hydraulic setup reputed to work really well. Just as an option.

N.

[Syscrush]

Thanks folks. I'll check with Kent, and I'll see what the bike is like to live with. If it's too rough and/or I don't just grow a Popeye forearm on the left, I'll probably go for the Tim's setup next winter.

[letxbruce]

The clutch cable may be merely worn or have some gummy crud in it. They can get very sticky over the years.

[Syscrush]

The clutch cable may be merely worn or have some gummy crud in it. They can get very sticky over the years.

I think it's new. The throttle cables are new. I'll check the routing too, but the most likely explanation is my lack of finger power.

[Jeff Bennetts]

Are you sure you have an OEM clutch lever and not some universal replacement?

[daves79x]

A CBX with stock clutch springs has the easiest pull you'll find. You have a complete set of H-D springs in there, which you don't need. If you must have heavier springs, just use 3 H-D ones and 3 stock ones. One other thing to check is the entire adjustment. Back off the lever adjuster until you have lots of free play. Take the small cover off the clutch cover. Loosen the locknut there and lightly seat the set screw. Back off the screw from there 1 full turn. Tighten the locknut and install cover. Then adjust freeplay and see what you have. Most every CBX I've randomly worked on for whatever had a mis-adjusted clutch.

Dave

[Larry Zimmer]

You mention that you think the cable is new. Is it an OEM replacement? Could it be a less expensive aftermarket piece which might be simple steel outer/inner. These will have considerably greater friction than the OE with its teflon liner. (Which should not be lubed.) As Dave mentioned, a stock CBX is one of the lightest things going. I've had my '82 for 20 years -- never touched the clutch cable. It's still light as any I've ever squeezed.

[bikeymikey748]

...than the OE with its teflon liner. (Which should not be lubed.

Curious, how come? I always feel better putting a little ,light oil ,down all my cables. What did I miss?

[piit]

Righ and even Honda Shopmanual (page 2-5) says that oil the clutch, throttle, and choke cables.
-p-

[barryadam]

Some claim that the teflon does not function any better with lube, and that lube only serves to attract and retain grit.

To lube or not to lube - both sides of the subject have been discussed at length and have firm believers at each end.
It's kinda like a tire or an oil thread.

Barry