Well idles like a charm now!! First went back to 3 turns as recommended by Dyno-Jet (Stage1) for the air screws. Nothing... still at 2300rpms after cracking throttle although mercury tubes very close. Then adjusted back to 2 turns and re-checked tubes. Tweaked couple of sync screws and now can bring down to less than 500rpm, crack throttle.. back to 500!! Perfect! Set idle at 900-1000 rpm and re-checked everything. Machine idles back to original setting although a very slight hang-up around 1300 or so for a split second.
Did check compression and about 120. Not really concerned as engine fresh so rings no time to seat... its only been in shed idling to warm up. About zero degrees here and soon snowing so put back in storage for winter.
It's great to put a bike away that's ready to go next spring! I'm guessing that one butterfly was closed too far, hanging all the rest, or several, up. I've seen that happen often on carbs that have been fiddled with. Congratulations.
When I removed/diss-assembled carbs did find a damaged o-ring on 1 of the air screws, that was it. Used cutting torch cleaning tips to clean out idle jet along with cleaner and compressed air. However when put back in bike still high idle and couldn't do anything to get idle down after I'd crack throttle, although Mercury tubes show equal vaccum. Re-adjusted screws to 2 turns and thats when I could adjust idle with sync screws and idle ady screw. Picked up a tool from Motion Pro (90 degree gear driven) to get at screws... works great as long as drain lines don't jam up gears!
Long screwdriver to move drain lines and easy then. Bike idles smooth now and returns to idle.. no more 2000+ rpms at intersections I hope! Check out next spring but fairly confident issue now taken care of.
Wonder how many others have the Dyno-Jet Stage 1 in their CBX's? Instructions say to change adjustments from stock(1 &1/4) to 3 turns. At 3 turns screws fairly loose... I should of picked up on it before.
i have re-assembled a spare motor and am now questioning the cam sprocket alignment. it looks "close" but i am not sure if it's dead on? the exhaust cam punch mark sits so the bottom of the mark is in line with the head surface and the intake cam punch mark is sitting so that the top of the punch mark is sitting flush to the head surface, this is when the crank is on the "T" mark with #6 lobes pointing towards spark plug. if i rotate a little more to where the head surface intersects both punch marks the "T" mark moves about a 1/16 of an inch past the case mating surfaces (clockwise). am i out a tooth? can i just remove the oldham coupler off the ehaust cams and remove the right exhaust cam and rotate the exhuast cam gear and chain one tooth? hate to rip this aprt again but i am really second guseeing myself? any thoughts much appreciated. a couple pics are attached.
Looks like you are correct. Moving a tooth would put it way off. If both sprockets are oriented the same, you should be good. They never perfectly line up with the head surface.
with a used cham chain always check the alignment AFTER the adjuster is set to take all the slack out of the chain with pressure in the proper crank rotation. Remember the chain stretch will allow the exhaust cam to retard as it streches
Well idles like a charm now!! First went back to 3 turns as recommended by Dyno-Jet (Stage1) for the air screws. Nothing... still at 2300rpms after cracking throttle although mercury tubes very close. Then adjusted back to 2 turns and re-checked tubes. Tweaked couple of sync screws and now can bring down to less than 500rpm, crack throttle.. back to 500!! Perfect! Set idle at 900-1000 rpm and re-checked everything. Machine idles back to original setting although a very slight hang-up around 1300 or so for a split second.
