82 Valve cover gasket

[Thomas76]

Howdy,
I'm trying to get my engine back together after sending the carburetors out and setting the valves. I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the valve cover back on. I can't seem to get the gasket to stay put once I flip the cover right side up. is there some sealant or grease I could use to adhere the gasket into the groove in the cover briefly so I can at least get it over the cams or is there some trick to it that I don't know? Any help would be appreciated since this seemingly simple task has me at an impasse.

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

A surgically clean channel in the valve cover where the gasket resides and a thin bead of something like Honda bond to hold the gasket in place.
Some good info and some "other stuff" in this thread.
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=5792&hilit=valve+cover+gasket

[Thomas76]

Perfect, I'll try that. Thank you

[herdygerdy]

I have used this newly learned trick with great success in the not to distant past.

Get about 4 or 6 large rubber bands, the ones about 1/4" (or larger) wide are perfect.

Now...no sealant req'd to hold the seal, but you should still goo up the spots on each end of the seal as detailed in the FSM.

Flip the valve cover on its back on the bench and lay the gasket into position - remember, no goo needed.

Once you are happy, then stretch at least two, but preferably three of your fat rubber bands on each side (where the valve cover splits into the exhaust and inlet sections) enclosing the whole valve cover and gasket.

(BTW got this trick from Captain (Brent) on 1100F site, and the 1100 cam cover is a little bit easier because the two ends are not joined as they are on the CBX cover, but the same principle applies and it really works a treat on the CBX as well)

Suggest putting one up close on each side to where the two fingers meet the centre section, then two or more a bit further out and space evenly with the last one as close as possible to each end.

Then do the other side. The rubber bands will now 'hold' the seal into place and the cover can now be flipped right side up and the seal pretty much stays in place, even with no goo.

Now carefully slide the cover, now with its captive seal and up to six rubber bands into position on the engine. If you have fouling issues, it can help to undo the coil mounting brackets so they can be lifted up slightly to give you more clearance over the inlet cam towers.

Now, install your cam cover bolts and screw them down evenly, just a little at a time on each one, and only just far enough so the seal is almost but not quite kissing' the sealing surface of the head - a gap of between 1 and 2 mm gap is perfect. You certainly do NOT want it tightened all the way down at this stage.

As the cover is pulled gently down on the bolts, the rubber bands stretch further over the internal cam towers, lobes and assorted gubbins, but still happily holds the seal in place.

Once you are happy, get a pair of side cutters or scissors and firmly holding the rubber band in between the inlet and exhaust sections of the cover with your thumb and forefinger, simply cut each rubber band and withdraw it.

Then screw down the bolts all the way to the shoulder - do NOT overtighten these puppies else it can REALLY wreck your day - and you will be good to go.

Try it, you'll like it. Once you do it this way, you will NEVER go back to the goo all the way along the channel method again, trust me.

Enjoy!

Cheers...Tony

[Jeff Bennetts]

Nice write up Tony, now I won't have to walk around with 3M weatherstrip adhesive on my finger tips for days.

[Thomas76]

Great tip, I haven't had time to try the goo yet. I'll try this first. Thanks