Maybe I missed it, but I did not read a check for fork tube straightness. It would seem this might effect the stiction.
I believe this is a really informative write up of the principles of fork suspension, and how the gold valve improves suspension.
I had to read a few times for some of it to sink in.http://racetech.com/html_files/DampingRodForks.HTML
I wound up buying the Race Tech "Motorcycle Suspension Bible". Wow some great info!! Well spent $35 for those wanting to improve their suspension knowledge.
Regarding the previous pix, after re-evaluating my bushings, the wear surface of the wide bushing is the outside surface. It really was not that bad. The wear surface of the narrow(er) bushing is the inside surface. Again it was not that bad. My thought was, if I was gonna rebuild to a race tech suspension, I wanted to start with a clean baseline, thus new bushings, seals, etc. to eliminate all variables.
In assembling the forks, the left assembly had a bind to it I had a hard time tracking down. At one point I thought the tube was bent. I tracked it down to the narrow, top bushing. The last time the old narrow bushing was pressed in (um, by me...), I'm guessing it got cocked, and the edge scratched the surface of the area it is installed in as I found a glob of soft aluminum protruding from the bottom of the scratch. Not noticing this, when I installed the new bushing, the gob, forced the new bushing to protrude in that area. This caused the tube to bind just a bit. i disassembled and found the issue. I used some 500 grit sand paper to smooth out the scratch. I followed that with a gob of mothers polishing paste to polish out the sanding marks. Lastly of course I thoroughly cleaned all surfaces to ensure no grit remained.
I found a 8" length of 2.5" PVC tubing works great as a slide hammer to install the new seals. Be sure to install the backer plate , then the seal, then the backup plate before hammering the seal in... (I now know the correct order from memory...). for fork oil level, (before installing the spring) collapse the fork tube. Fill with fork oil (I used 10W) to 100MM from the top. I crafted a dipstick and marked with 100MM and 130MM levels. Pull the tube all the way out before installing the spring. Otherwise the oil will overflow... I found this out too...
I took a short ride. First impression? WOW!! You should consider the Race Tech Fork Emulator upgrade. Significantly different feel! Much tighter (not harsher).
Here's a link to my 81 fork rebuild w/pics.viewtopic.php?f=24&t=7496
Welcome and Best
PS - 2 rallies coming up
Newburgh NY 6/7-9viewtopic.php?f=106&t=7565
St Clairesville OH 6/15-17viewtopic.php?f=106&t=7769
Hope to see you there!