The International CBX Owners Association

For the life off me, I can't figure out where these two cupped spacers are supposed to go.
Any ideas?

They look like they belong on the gear shifter. Larger id on the inside, other on the outside. There should be two felt rings that act as grease seals to go with them.

I think Joe has ID'd them. The felts are often missing, but replacement felts are around, or fashion something. Should also be a flat washer and acorn nut to hold everything on. If your shifter is installed, you are for sure missing these parts!

Dave

Thanks guys, appreciate it. Of course they fell out onto the floor when I was working on the swingarm and shock.

OK, those 2 washers are back in place, had to take a pic so I remember for the next time, lol. Got the new shock and the swingarm back in today, everything buttoned down and torqued to specs. Reversed the dog bone bolt and nut, now the nuts are on from the exhaust side, so next time they come off I won't need to remove the exhausts.
Why did mother Honda not do this in the first place. Almost there, tomorrow for the rest.

So I'm ready to install the exhaust, is there a good method to install the system while holding the collars and the everything roughly in place?
Is there a best orientation for the collars? Looking at marks looks like the collars ends are in line with the holes, at least on mine. Seems like I don't have enough hands for this job, and would prefer not to damage everything.
Appreciate any tips.

I googled a few youtube vids, and saw one that puts bubble wrap around the pipes with just enough to hold the flanges on, got the better half to hold the back end of exhaust and fit to mounting bracket as I wiggled them into position at the front.
Once the bolt was in at the back end, the pipes couldn't fall out. Then I could put the collars in individually and tightened each of the flanges by hand, ensuring the the collars were seated 100%, then torqued them, Exhaust is now on.

You need two people for the Pro-Link exhaust. I don't separate the pipes, remove the sidestand and you can work it out whole, but you still need an extra set of hands to drop it and lift it back in place. Make sure the flanges are on the pipes correctly, of course, then get all six head pipes into the ports. Then swing up the rear and put in loosely each forward bolt, just to hold everything. You still need some pressure against the head pipes to hold them in. I just fit each pair of split collars with the split straight up, then hold a finger tight on the split. That will hold the collars in place while you fit the flange and nuts.

I know it sounds complicated, but I hate the smell of burning tape or whatever guys use to hold the collars in place. To be fair, I've done it dozens and dozens of times, so it's second nature.

Dave

I can do the ProLink exhaust by myself by suspending the mufflers with bungee cords. This allows them to move somewhat fore and aft while positioning the downpipes into the head. As soon as possible put one bolt through the footplate and bracket (loose) to hold it in place. Attach all the collars just by a thread or two before torquing to spec. I use a hook tool to position the collar flanges into the collars (flashlight too) before tightening.
It's a good idea to check all of the flanges to collar for fit before sliding the collars onto the pipes to be certain there is no damage from previous "mechanics". Dremel to remove unwanted material if necessary.
All this is done on a hoist, sitting on the mainstand, front tire locked into the vertical stand and the system supported with a scissors jack that's about 18 inches wide.

Awesome guys, I like the idea of the bungee cords, most of the time I do things by myself, so will def use this method the next time.

Did check the collar fit to the flanges, and there was some damage on the flanges from previous mechanics, cleaned them up and fitted each set of collars to the appropriate flanges. Three of the flanges needed some cleanup.
Cleaned up the rust from collars at the mating surfaces with some very fine sandpaper as well.
Also oriented the collar splits up and down. Easier this way to make sure they were seated on the flanges as tightening commenced.

The exhaust is definitely seated.

Went out for a test ride this morning,
What an improvement with the new rear shock. Very nice handling now. I felt confident to let her rip. Triple digit mph.
Another happy customer.

One question, now that stock shock is out, can I just plug the end of the air valve so that the suspension light doesn't come on?
Or is there another way?
Thanks All

You can ground the wire that goes to the pressure sensor.