The International CBX Owners Association

Thanks again guys, all good input and advice. Dave, I will def adjust the pedal height as suggested with the master cylinder shaft. The punch marks are lined up on the pedal shaft and pedal, check. Will report back soon. Thanks again, all!

My '80 with Sport Kit has had a Kerker 6 into 2 system on it since I bought it, and it fits fine.

So hi again all, I finally found the time to wrestle the Bassani into place on the '80 SS, and as you can see from the attachments, the brake pedal is stuck between a rock above (rear brake pedal) and a hard p[lace below (exhaust pipe). Not sure if this is a "real" Bassani pipe or not, but one things for sure, there ain't gonna be no using the rear brake as is. I'd really like to make this exhaust work, so I'm looking for ideas, please?

I'm thinking there are three options, but I'm hoping the collective (you's) can come up with something else that may be simpler / more effective:

1) Modify a brake spindle by adding 13mm of length so the pedal clears the pipe protrusion (will need a donor spindle and expert weldor).
2) Take a vertical "slice" out of the pipe to remove the offending protrusion and weld on a new piece of metal (again, need a weldor/exhaust expert AND some new powdercoating on the patch.
3) Sell the pipe to someone else who doesn't have the sport kit (don't wanna do this).

Any and all ideas are welcomed and appreciated, THANKS!!

Bill, a fourth option might be to take some meat off the top and bottom of the brake arm and the bottom of the footpeg.

Bill, if you loosen up the head clamps just enough to wiggle things around, and do the same with the collector to muffler and muffler to the bracket, are you CERTAIN it won't rotate down under a bit better? In my experience, properly fitting exhaust systems is a surprisingly fiddly thing to do, and takes patience, skill and occasionally coercion. I'm getting better at it but I am not good at it yet. No way?

I'll give it a try Nils, but the position of the muffler (and associated pertuberance) seems to be dictated by the angle of the bracket that's welded to the can and bolts flush with the back side of the foot peg bracket.

FWIW - I don't think you'd be able to use the brake pedal with the stock footplates either.

Dave

daves79x wrote:FWIW - I don't think you'd be able to use the brake pedal with the stock footplates either.

Dave

Why are you saying this, Dave?

steve murdoch icoa #5322 wrote:Bill, a fourth option might be to take some meat off the top and bottom of the brake arm and the bottom of the footpeg.

already done, still not enough room. A sharp eye on the other list thinks that a sleeve was welded onto the slip on (i.e. non-stock fitting) and is causing the problem. Possibly a fix after damaging / cracking / grounding the pipe on a lowered X? I'm wondering now if this is why the seller wanted to unload this unit. I haven't been f*cked very many times buying long-distance parts, but that is shaping up to be one of them.

On the first page of this thread in the pictures that I and EMS posted you can see that the clearances are very tight but manageable.

Make sure the pipe is as low as possible at the footplate mounting location, oblong the hole on the pipe if necessary.
Bleed the rear master cylinder so the downward movement of the brake arm is at its minimum stroke.
Adjust the brake arm at the master cylinder, not the spindle.
Notch the top of the brake arm to clear the foot peg, so it is at its highest point when at its static position.
It might work better if you start the fitting of the system from the rear and work your way forward, some how you need to get the portion of the the exhaust by the brake arm further inboard.

If all else fails, identify the areas on the pipe that need the clearance, get the acetylene torches out, warm up the areas and do some tweaking.

It was fussy but as you can plainly see in the picture I posted, I got the system to work, so can you.

If you decide to sell that loud, obnoxious and ill fitting exhaust, I'll give you $150.00 for it.

bdento59 wrote:

steve murdoch icoa #5322 wrote:Bill, a fourth option might be to take some meat off the top and bottom of the brake arm and the bottom of the footpeg.

already done, still not enough room. A sharp eye on the other list thinks that a sleeve was welded onto the slip on (i.e. non-stock fitting) and is causing the problem. Possibly a fix after damaging / cracking / grounding the pipe on a lowered X? I'm wondering now if this is why the seller wanted to unload this unit. I haven't been f*cked very many times buying long-distance parts, but that is shaping up to be one of them.

Bill you made this post as I was typing But now I see the high spot you are referring to, WTF that mid pipe really has a nasty bulge to it. I still wouldn't give up on it even if I had to refabricate the mid-pipe.

Mike - imagine the brake pivot being forward to the standard-plate position - looks to me like it would still hit the pipe. The sport kit off-set is only 1 1/2 inch or so, maybe 2.

Dave