Battery not charging

[daves79x]

Do not do the stator test I described with the bike running!

Brush A should be part number 31124-MA2-005 and brush B should be 31125-MA2-005. Those are the updated numbers from the '81-'82 book. The 79-80 part numbers were the same except 422 instead of MA2.

From what you are describing, I'd load test the battery too. If voltage holds under load, then I'd guess it's the regulator.

Dave

[daves79x]

Pretty sure the early number supersedes to the later one. Yes, brush composition could have changed to wear the comutator more in the late models. Not sure that's a good trade-off, but guess I haven't heard of one failing either.

Dave

[cross]

I did take the battery to the local bike shop where i got it and it tested good.
I would like to test the stator first before i splurge and buy the regulator/rectifier. Any recommended brand?
These guys have them, a bit upgraded then OEM and they are $99.
http://www.electrosport.com/street-bike ... ifier.html

[cross]

I received the brushes but not MA2 ones. I guess Honda has replacement for this and new part numbers are
31124-MG5-000
31125-MG5-005
I measured from the scribed line and old ones are exactly at 50% so I'll keep them.
Clothes have been sanded down to make them flat. The one that sits on the shaft has deeper ridges toward the center and I'm afraid that there will be no more meat left if I grind them down more. it's about 2/3 that is flat and I'm hoping that it will be enough surface for clutches to work properly.
What do you guys think?

[Jeff Bennetts]

Good enough, make sure you clean up the sharp edges on the four oiling groves (radius the shoulders) so they don't bite into the other clutch face.

[cross]

Yes, I need to rough them up a bit more as they're too shiny now and I'll do do the edges too.
Thank you
Sasha

[Larry Zimmer]

The surfaces are good as-is, Sasha. Just be certain to cover both surfaces with moly grease before assembly (as stated in the Honda manual). And, 'break' the groove edges as Jeff mentioned.

[cross]

Moly grease, yes. Thank you for the reminder, I forgot about it

[asacuta]

Adding moly to surfaces that you would prefer not slip doesn't seem like the way to go. I installed new sanded disks dry last time I did the alternator, and I haven't heard any rattling since. I haven't had it apart since then, so I don't know what the disks look like.

[cross]

I'm not sure really. Some people say grease and some don't.
Mike nixon who worked at Honda said yes to greasing so I may as well do it.
But I still have time until my regulator arives and I need to make gasket too so I'll think about greasing
Thanks

[daves79x]

Just remember, the clutches are bathed in oil from the center out, so the grease would only be for a few start-up seconds.

Dave

[asacuta]

The problem with moly is that once burnished, although the grease may go, some of the moly stays.

[Larry Zimmer]

I mention the moly because Honda specifically say, in the manual, to do that. I did it with mine years ago after lapping the plates. My clutch has worked fine since. Just passing that along. Personally, i would not put them together without some type of lube on them. (Baby oil would be better than nothing!) Running those two plates together dry initially is asking for galling.

[cross]

Got all parts, installed them and bike is now charging and not chirping!
The things that I did
After testing it was determined that regulator/rectifier died
Sanded down clutches to make them as flat as possible
Cleaned everything inside of the alternator
Bought new brushes but after measuring, old ones are at 50% so I didn't use new ones.
Made my own gasket
Replaced seal on the shaft just to be sure that it's not leaking
Added one shim purchased from mike Nixon
Installed new regulator/rectifier
Fired it up, let it warm up and once revved up it shows around 13-14

Thank you guys once again for all your help
Sasha

[Larry Zimmer]

Good on you, Sasha. I like stories with happy endings.