Alternator weep

[cbx6ss]

OK, so I want to replace the primary shaft seal(s) behind the alternator (Case is "split" and "disemboweled". Ummm, I guess it would have to be to take the pix...). How do I remove the seals/bearing to do this? I would like to non-destructively, remove the bearing (drive it out via the outer race). It looks like the seal(s) are installed from the bearing side as there appears to be a lip on the seal side. The seals do not appear to be wide enough to catch the bearing outer race if I drive from the seal side. If so, that would drive it "by the balls" (pun intended), or inner race, and would probably damage the bearing. Not much in the manual that I could find...
Please advise.
Thank you,
/r
Brad
Bearing


Seals

[Rick Pope]

Brad, unless Dave chimes in with a better idea, I'd be tempted to heat the bearing area with a heat gun, or even a good hair drier, then tap out the bearing. The expansion rate of the aluminum case is much higher than the steel race, so the bearing should push out easily. Perhaps a few taps with a wooden dowel or the handle of a hammer?

[NobleHops]

Brad, unless Dave chimes in with a better idea, I'd be tempted to heat the bearing area with a heat gun, or even a good hair drier, then tap out the bearing. The expansion rate of the aluminum case is much higher than the steel race, so the bearing should push out easily. Perhaps a few taps with a wooden dowel or the handle of a hammer?

I'd imagine a blind bearing remover would have that bearing out in a flash, but the rub is of course your non-destructive requirement. How expensive it that bearing? I'd die a thousand deaths reusing a ball bearing I had any doubt about in an engine I had split.

N., not helping I guess.

[cbx6ss]

Good point Nils! I NEVER want to do this again!! $30? Well spent!
Thank you all for your recommendations.
/r
Brad

[daves79x]

Just drive it out - you won't hurt anything. I can't see the entire pic you uploaded - in fact haven't been able to for the last several you've posted - don't know what the trouble is. I just get half of the pic.

Anyway, there are two seals there behind the bearing. One is a flat one you can't see. Don't damage it, however, if you do, I think TIMS has reproductions. The other seal is standard fare. I've never seen that bearing go bad, but have seen several on the opposite end of the primary shaft fail.

Dave

[cbx6ss]

...I can't see the entire pic you uploaded - in fact haven't been able to for the last several you've posted - don't know what the trouble is. I just get half of the pic.
Dave

Dave,
I sometimes see the same thing. If I click on the pic in the message, the pic opens full screen.
/r
Brad

[cbx6ss]

Just drive it out - you won't hurt anything.
Dave

I tried driving it out gently, but failed to apply heat to the case as Rick suggested. I bet that would have worked... The result is the bearing has the predictable grumble to it so I will replace it. Rats!! When will I listen to you guys??
/r
B

[NobleHops]

Just drive it out - you won't hurt anything.
Dave

I tried driving it out gently, but failed to apply heat to the case as Rick suggested. I bet that would have worked... The result is the bearing has the predictable grumble to it so I will replace it. Rats!! When will I listen to you guys??
/r
B

Did you use a blind bearing remover? Like this? Or what? Just want to learn from your experience.



Sorry for your trouble Brad.

N.

[cbx6ss]

No problem here. I learned something and it looks like the bearing is available for only $15. I drove it with seal driver, from the seal side, as I planned on replacing the seal in the first place. I believe the blind bearing remover would have had the same result, (without heat) as it pulls on the inner race where the outer race has the press fit. The bearing balls get caught in the middle and damage the races (thus destructive removal). If I had just used a little heat with some "tender taps" I just might have "pulled it off" (get it?).

On another note, I learned a lot about case sealers and stud thread sealers in threads on this site. My engine was leaking like a Harley after 32 years. If things go right it'll be tight as a drum when I finish.
/r
Brad

[ericfreeman]

While searching for info on alternator gaskets I came across this thread. It appears the oil seal is installed backwards from the pics. Normally, the open cavity of the seal faces the oil side of a chamber so the pressure helps push the seal lips against the shaft. My oil seal is definitely oriented differently than the pics, unless I'm not seeing it correctly. Just found it interesting....

Eric

[daves79x]

No, the seal in the picture is installed correctly. Remember, it's not sealing oil from leaking to the outside, just from one internal chamber with oil to another.

Dave

[ericfreeman]

No, the seal in the picture is installed correctly. Remember, it's not sealing oil from leaking to the outside, just from one internal chamber with oil to another.

Dave

My recently disassembled alternator had the seal installed differently: the open side was facing the motor. Given that any crankcase pressure will be inside the alt clutch chamber, I believe that's the correct way. Unfortunately, the service manual doesn't detail this situation.

Eric

[daves79x]

That's not the alternator in the picture - it's the crankcase.

Dave

[ericfreeman]

This pic is definitely the clutch side of the alternator and the seal looks backwards.

download/file.php?id=835

[daves79x]

Yes, THAT seal is backwards, just as Aris' was in the beginning of the thread. Our posts just prior to yours were referring to Brad's crankcase photos. Sorry - I was confused.

Dave