New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification


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kerrycbx
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New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by kerrycbx »

HOW TO MODIFY A NEW BOL’ DOR SWITCH TO FIT A CBX

I have a US model 1978 CBX and needed to convert the set up to the Ozzie spec bike. This, in essence, meant installing what you fellas in the US call the “Sport Kit” which included fitting correct type switchgear. The Ozzie/Euro set up has top exit cables and a light switch as standard kit on the RH switch and a light flasher on the LH switch. In addition the wiring harness is much shorter as our handle bars are the low mount type.
Anyway, here is a step by step guide (with pictures) on how to convert that NEW Honda Bol Dor LH switch to work on your 78/79/80 CBX.
First things first. You will need to have some basic automotive electrical tools and electrical connectors to make this job a walk in the park. If you don’t have these tools they can be had relatively cheap off eBay or your local electrical parts supply house. Electrical connectors can be sourced from an electrical supply house, automotive electrician or electronics store. Tools you will need are a ratchet crimper for non-insulated connectors, wire stripper, 25 amp soldering iron, jewellers fine tip screwdriver, heat gun (hair dryer will do) and hobby knife. Hardware you will need includes a supply of large size automotive male spade terminals (non insulated), a few large female terminals, insulated ends for the female terminals, an 8 socket plug (I prefer to use the existing), flux core solder, some heat shrink tubing of various size plus some soft black plastic tubing. Here’s a photograph of most of the bits you will need. Some of this is not necessary but I like to finish my switches as close to original as possible plus I like a neat job.

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Here is a photo of the Euro/Ozzie and the US plugs. The only difference is the extra wire (brown/white) which I confess I don’t really know what it does. It obviously has something to do with the headlight/park light operation.
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Here is a photo of the standard wiring and the new Bol Dor wiring. Straight up this looks to be a bigger than “Star Wars” task but it really is a simple project to undertake. Note that the US/Euro orange and blue wires are similar in length to the original CBX switch. The horn wires on CBX switch are longer than the new switch, so these will need to be extended. The 3 terminal headlight plug on the new switch we are going to discard.

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Step 1
Strip off the black sheath to expose the orange, light blue, twin dark blue, twin green and white wires. Note: We will maintain the integrity of the light blue and orange wires. Nothing more will be done with these. Also cut open the larger sheath about ¾” to expose the wire loops. You will know what I mean about these loops in the next step
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Step 2
Carefully open up the black sheath until you can easily identify the loops of the blue and green wires. You will notice that these wire loops are glued (with a strong adhesive) to the other wires. These looped wires need to be separated.
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Step 3
Carefully cut the glue between wires to separate the loops from other wires. Take your time and be careful not to cut the plastic insulation or wires. Don’t sweat it if you nick a blue or green loop wire as they will be discarded.
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Step 4
What you now have once you have separated the loops from the other wires is 2 blue and 2 green wires. These wires exit the 3 prong light socket, one of each connects to the black plug and one of each travels up the harness to the switch. The white wire also travels the harness to the switch. We are only interested in the dark blue and green wires at this stage.
You now need to cut the white plug from the wires. Cut as close to the plug as possible (where indicated in the following picture) You will end up with 5 wires.

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This next section shows one way of separating the wires from the plug and would only be done if you want to retain the narrow style male terminals to extend the wire length for US STYLE SWITCHES. US switch wiring is approximately 6” longer than Euro/Ozzie switch wiring. If you are converting to a Euro/Ozzie switch just cut the black plug away as close to the terminals as possible.
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Step 5 (optional for US style switches)
Each terminal fitted to the black plug connector is held in place by a bent tang on the terminal. You have to release this tang by bending back flush with the terminal. (see the pictures) This will release the terminal which can then easily be pulled from the back of the black plug. I use a small spade bit “jewellers screwdriver”. Any fine instrument will do so long as it fits into the slot (accessed from the front of the black plug) that the tang clips to will thereby allowing you to flatten the tang. You’ll just have to follow your instincts here.
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When you have all 6 terminals free from the black plug you are done with this plug. Note: You will note that when you free the blue and green wires from the plug these wires are now not connected to any part of the harness (remember those loops). The 2 free wires (blue and green) are no longer needed and can now be discarded
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So what you now end up with is 4 wires with small spade terminals and the 3 original harness wires removed from the white plug. Important Note: If you are converting this switch to be used on a US model with the taller handle bars you need to extend the 4 wires with the terminals to match the 3 longer wires. You can fit female non-insulated terminals to new wire and just connect these to the existing male terminals or you can discard the spade terminals and solder the new wires in place (I prefer to use the existing terminals but this is you call). Regardless of what you choose to do, try and source an old Honda wiring harness or switch and match up the wire color to the wires on the new switch – and don’t forget to insulate the joins well. I recommend double layers of heat shrink tubing. Just makes for a nice touch.

Step 6
Now if you are like me and are to fit this switch to the lower, sport style, handlebars then cut off the 4 spade terminals and cut the 3 longer wires to match the other 4. You are now ready to fit the wider crimp, non insulated, male spade terminals.
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Step 7
Now crimp the new wider type spade terminals to all the wires. Make sure you get good crimps and this can be done by ensuring you choose the correct jaw slot on the ratchet crimping tool. A sloppy crimp will only fail. Note: In the photo following you will see how the tangs look on the new terminals. These provide the positive lock so the terminal will remain in place once installed in the white terminal block
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Step 8
Now you are ready to install the terminals in the white terminal block. Three things to watch out for here. 1. Make sure you have the terminal the correct way up as the tags will only lock in position if installed correctly. Don’t laugh at this because I’ve made that mistake. 2. Make sure you feel the tang click into place. Lightly tug the wire backwards to check for this. 3. Make sure you have the correct wire in the correct slot within the terminal block the correct way. This is also a trap so check the pictures carefully for which way is correct. Also double check the wire match when you install the 2 terminal connectors together when installing the switch in the headlight. This will ensure no hot or crossed wires. Here’s that photo again to make sure
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Step 9
Your next task is the horn wires. The new switch has much shortened horn wires than the CBX switch so you will need to extend these to the correct length. I won’t re-state what you need to do here other than to say the terminals are the large female type. Ensure that you install the black tube and insulators prior to crimping the ends. I’d like $100 every time I’ve forgotten to do this ;o).
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Step 10 – All Over RoverWell here is the finished switch in all its glory. Another top job if I do say so myself. hee hee hee :o)
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Step 11
Fitted up to the bike and working a treat.
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EMS
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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by EMS »

This is just great, Kerry! :bigthumb: :thumupp: I nominate this for an article in a future CBXPress. You should send a pm or e-mail to Jan Ringnalda and discuss the details

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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by NobleHops »

EMS wrote:This is just great, Kerry! :bigthumb: :thumupp: I nominate this for an article in a future CBXPress. You should send a pm or e-mail to Jan Ringnalda and discuss the details

+1 Kerry, that is fantastic. Thank you so much for taking the time to document this so well and thoroughly. I'll leave it here for a few weeks and then move it into 'electrical', and reference it in 'resources'.

N.
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Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)

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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by Samelak »

I really like that new switch. Where you able to buy it new? I just completed a similar mod myself. I have a sport kit installed and my throttle switch housing was cracked. Instead of shelling out big dollars for another, I convinced a gentleman from England to ship me a throttle switch from a CB900. The CBX and CB900 switches look identical except for the plug. They even use the the same amount of wires and coloring. I just swapped the CBX plug over and was done. I only had to invest a total of about $40.

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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by Ringnalda »

Great article. With the author's permission I will forward it to the editor for inclusion in the next CBXPress.

Jan
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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by kerrycbx »

Yep Jan. No problems reproducing this in your mag KP

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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by kerrycbx »

Samelak wrote:I really like that new switch. Where you able to buy it new? I just completed a similar mod myself. I have a sport kit installed and my throttle switch housing was cracked. Instead of shelling out big dollars for another, I convinced a gentleman from England to ship me a throttle switch from a CB900. The CBX and CB900 switches look identical except for the plug. They even use the the same amount of wires and coloring. I just swapped the CBX plug over and was done. I only had to invest a total of about $40.
You can buy this switch from David Silver Spares in the UK Part # is 35200-438-601
Link is http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/part ... 200438601/
KP

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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by Ringnalda »

An alternative to the switching of the connectors, but involves some soldering, is to use the CBX inners/wires from an original switch, and just use the nice new plastic cases and buttons from the new switch. Some soldering required, but you don't need the crimping tool kit...

Cheers, Jan
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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by Don »

Ringnalda wrote:An alternative to the switching of the connectors, but involves some soldering, is to use the CBX inners/wires from an original switch, and just use the nice new plastic cases and buttons from the new switch. Some soldering required, but you don't need the crimping tool kit...
Excellent write-up and great pictorial - Just about anyone could follow what he did and make the conversion

Like Jan, it would never have occurred to me to do this the way that Kerry did . . . . though he wound up with excellent results. I would have just unsoldered all the wires from the old switch, tailored the lengths if needed (like if you were converting a non Sport Kit switch for use with a Sport Kit) and soldered all the wires onto the new switches. The big plus for doing it Kerry's way is he wound up with all new wiring and all new connector terminals . . . . never a bad thing to have *new* electrical contacts on a 30 year old machine

Don

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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by NobleHops »

Don wrote:The big plus for doing it Kerry's way is he wound up with all new wiring and all new connector terminals . . . . never a bad thing to have *new* electrical contacts on a 30 year old machine

Don
That. And the switches themselves are 'like buttah'. I have a new switch on the right and a very tediously cleaned and repainted and rebuilt one on the left. I ended up taking it apart post painting, cleaning off lots of corrosion and overspray, cleaning the contacts and lightly dielectric greasing the moving parts of the switches, and now it is 'very good' but the new switch is perfect, crisp.

Great resource Kerry! I think I may write up a companion restoration piece if I get my mojo, for this or a future issue.

N.
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Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)

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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by kerrycbx »

If I remember correctly, you don't need to do any soldering on the left switch. If you have a very good and limited use switch, you just swap out the old a into the new cases. Do what Nils' did and give the contacts a good clean and grease.
Nothing like the smell of new switches I always say :DD KP

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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by CopperCollar »

I have read Kerry's modification for the left switch, but how about the conversion of the euro right switch to the USA spec CBX?

What will I have to do for this to work properly?

Mike
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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by Darien »

Kerry,

What gauge wire should be used for this modification? Is it 16 gauge wire?

Thanks,

Darien

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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by fasterspider »

The brown wire with the white runner on the US switch powers the running lights in case you have not figured it out yet.
I did this mod to my CBX when I 1st got her, nothing like Euro switches on an American bike.
I hard wired my front running lights and they cannot go out with the rest of the lights with the Euro switch.
Ray#1

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Slightly modified 79 CBX



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Re: New Bol'Dor to CBX Switch modification

Post by EMS »

fasterspider wrote:The brown wire with the white runner on the US switch powers the running lights in case you have not figured it out yet.
I did this mod to my CBX when I 1st got her, nothing like Euro switches on an American bike.
I hard wired my front running lights and they cannot go out with the rest of the lights with the Euro switch.
Ray, I am sure you know, but if you put the switch into the P (park) position, the running lights stay on, while the headlight is out. Taillight will be on too.

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