Auto valve question

[daves79x]

Glad you're on the right track now. Your compression is fine. You're also finding out that these things do not suffer ANY inattentiveness. Take your time and get all the details right and you will be rewarded.

Dave

[cross]

Hi Nils,
I'm added the fuel filter in addition to the one on the petcock in the tank.
I already rebuilt the master cylinder for front brakes and have bled them and there is no air in the system although the brake lever feels spongy a bit. I need to recheck to make sure I got all the air that may gotten trapped in the banjo or T.
I definitely need to do research on suspension here, I'm just not sure I can rebuild them myself due to lack of press for getting those seals out of the forks.
I may just take them off and have someone do them. I'm definitely getting progressive 465 rear just have to figure out how to match the front, progressive springs with gold valve emulators or just stock springs with extra oil in them.
As soon I figure out and order parts, I'll have the tires installed and have wheel bearings inspected and perhaps steering head bearings as well just to be sure.
I don't really have any service records other than last invoice from tune up, carb cleaning and new front calipers so through check is in order.

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

Sasha, an old trick for a spongy front brake lever is to turn the handlebars to the left, apply the brake and with an elastic band or ziptie secure the lever to the grip as tight as you can. Leave it for 12 hours or so and release.
Yes it is a old, moldy tip but it has worked for me in the past.

[daves79x]

I'd modify Steve's advice slightly - just tie the lever back enough to unmask the bleed hole, which isn't very far. This allows the tiny bubbles in suspension to migrate to the bleed hole and into the m/c. Works really great if you can take the bike for a ride in the truck or trailer - all the jiggling works wonders.

Dave

[cross]

So i took bike for a ride around the neighborhood and first it ran fine but when i left the choke off and started riding, after few blocks i can hear that its not running on all 6 and when i add choke about half way, then it runs normal.
So after few laps around i parked it back in garage and attempted adjusting the mixture and went by the manual.
Attached digital multimeter with RPM reading on it, set idle speed to 900, turned cyl #1 adjuster all the way in and started turning in #2 adjuster until RPM's dropped about 50 RPM and the moment i did that, the bike started running much better and on all 6 cyl. moving of #3 did not do anything but then when i moved to do the other side, enigne idle speed stated going up to 1500/2000 and just sits there. Even with twist of the throttle it stays idling high.
I took it for ride and it ran smooth and sounded great, lots of power this time too but the idle still goes up very high and when i turn the idle adjuster down just a little, idle drops so low that engine stalls. Did the engine get too hot sitting in my garage idling while i was trying to adjust the mixture? I forgot that its air cooled and that i should have fan in front of it.
I think i'm going to have to remove them and clean them, its a torture like this!
But the few miles i rode it, i had huge smile on my face!!
Brakes on the other hand are just fine. They are not very powerful to what i'm used to but just fine. They should feel and perform much better once the forks are rebuilt.
Soft front suspension makes brakes seem week.

[daves79x]

More carb work is needed, but when you bench sync them carefully, they should idle pretty well as is - IF everything is clean. Still got some dirt in the low-speed circuitry. You can unscrew the pilot jets in the '82 version of these carbs and that makes cleaning real easy.

Dave

[cross]

Thanks Dave, I think that is going to be my weekend project. Hopefully I will not be needing any parts.
Do I have to remove the front sprocket to tilt the engine or is it enough to just loosen the adjusters in the back?

Thanks

[daves79x]

Just loosen the adjusters. When you do the carbs, strip absolutely everything from the bodies that you can. You'll need to find suitable screwdrivers or modify some you have for the pilot jets and the emulsion tubes, but they need to come out. On the pilot screws, make sure you get the o-ring and the tiny washer out of the hole for each one and count them - don't try to clean the carbs with one or two stuck in there.

Dave

[cross]

I will do that as long as I can tilt the engine enough to get carbs off.
I made a mistake when I cleaned the carbs per Mike Nixon's Spring cleaning but I could not get O rings out so I did it with them in. They are probably gone from al that Carb cleaner.
I guess I better order carb kits as I may be needing float bowl gaskets too.

Thanks