Float level

[piit]

Hi, I tried to search something that would points to fuel level measured from the outside but could not find.
Could someone tell does this looks ok when float level adjusted 15.5mm.
Thanks, piit

[alimey4u2]

Engine off or idling piit ?

Also, really need to see the vertical centerline of the carb....Could you post a pic more of the image to the right, it may be more helpful in judging...

[piit]

Actually both after the oil temp has reached the 75 celcius. Terrible driving in traffic jam with rpm 2000-3000. Feels like one or two cylinder is not in game.
I thought that related to ignition but I managed to swap my dyna system with working one and same problems appears (changed dyna s + dyna coils + mechanical advancer).
Today I checked first time the fuel levels from the outside and was a bit surprised. 1-3 same and 4-6 something else, float levels should be 15.5mm.
Attached pics are named as cyl #.

[daves79x]

Piit:
Photo #2 and 3 are just about right. I've measured lots of them your way and I think the correct level is right about in the middle of the large screw head that bolts the carb to the bracket. On the bench you have to simulate the correct mounted angle to get that reading. Other photos you show seem too high or too low. If you get them all like 2 & 3 you should be good.

Dave

[piit]

Hi Dave, thanks. That was what I wanted to know. Seems that the #1 is quite close too. Anyhow I can fine tune all the same.
Will be interesting to re-measure the float levels. As said in my opinion all should be 15.5mm and measured with Honda float level tool.
About bench testing the angle is 22 degree in -79 model?
I put the red line also to #1 carb.

One thing I want to still ask. Last winter I have modified my bike with front end and rear swingarm. The engine angle has been changed a bit.
Should I take this into account related to fuel level?

Thanks,
piit

[alimey4u2]

One thing I want to still ask. Last winter I have modified my bike with front end and rear swingarm. The engine angle has been changed a bit.
Should I take this into account related to fuel level?

Thanks,
piit

Carbs are almost in the center of the bike, therefore it would make little difference piit...

The level tube test is really that of conformity between float chambers...IE one is high ( or low) you have a problem. I would aim for a level below the bowl flange when idling. Raise or lower to suit plug colors if all else is good...However, I personally like the level of pic number two as Dave said...

[lta01]

Hello folks, Newbie from England here. Have been doing some work to try to sort out the carbs on my Z. Like Piit's, its got an 1150 high comp big bore on it, plus bigger inlet valves . I've reverted to standard jets, slides,needles etc and the latest dyno run is more or less spot on. Might try Piit's move to 68 primaries just to richen the slow cruising mixture but it rides good now. I'm at a flat A/F ratio of 13:1 across 3-10k rpm on the dyno. I'm at sea level , give or take.

Reason for my post here is just to make a comment on the visible float levels using the plastic tube/drain hole technique. I started off thinking like you guys that they should all be level when on the bike ( if the bike is transverse level ), but I've since concluded that because they are mounted in a "V" shape, rather than in a typical straight row, when you tilt the "V" the levels are NOT the same anymore ...because the carbs are not level either. As you tile the outside carbs become higher than the centre ones.

I've done it 3 times on the bench now.....set the fuel equal with the carbs completely horizontal, then tiled them 22 degrees, and I find you lose roughly 1/2 of the reference screw head between carb 3 & 2, and same again between 2 & 1.

So my conclusion would be that if you do set all the levels equal on the bike, you are going to run richer in the middle than the outsides....which might be a good thing.

food for thought ?

Loz