Passage testing.

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whatscooking
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Passage testing.

Post by whatscooking »

Because I know it is so important to have all the tiny passages completely cleaned and checked while doing an overhaul I was trying to come up with some other way to do this other than using the spray cans of carb or brake clean. Sure you can see a squirt coming out all the places it's supposed to but. #1 how much flow are you getting through, #2 it stinks. #3 I always get some into my eyes seems like, #4 of course the cost.
I have read many post on carb cleaning and somewhere I read about someone using a water pic to pump water through the passages and watch what comes out. Sounded great so I started on a search to find one. I called my son asking him where I could find a deal on one and he said why don't you just use a syringe, he is a doctor. I got into my Mighty Vac kit and came up with a long tapered rubber that hooked right onto the syringe. It went down deep enough to connect to the hole in the bottom of the primary tower so I could get a secure fit and build pressure.
You can gauge the flow and trust the passages are open this way and you can check them all, primary, secondary and their air bleeds and the accelerator nozzles. I had at first used the spray cans of cleaner on this carb and thought I was good but when I checked it this way I found the air bleed for the secondary on two carb bodies were open but not like the others.
This worked very good for me to check for blockages and it is cheap enough, hope this helps someone.

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NobleHops
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Re: Passage testing.

Post by NobleHops »

whatscooking wrote:Because I know it is so important to have all the tiny passages completely cleaned and checked while doing an overhaul I was trying to come up with some other way to do this other than using the spray cans of carb or brake clean. Sure you can see a squirt coming out all the places it's supposed to but. #1 how much flow are you getting through, #2 it stinks. #3 I always get some into my eyes seems like, #4 of course the cost.
I have read many post on carb cleaning and somewhere I read about someone using a water pic to pump water through the passages and watch what comes out. Sounded great so I started on a search to find one. I called my son asking him where I could find a deal on one and he said why don't you just use a syringe, he is a doctor. I got into my Mighty Vac kit and came up with a long tapered rubber that hooked right onto the syringe. It went down deep enough to connect to the hole in the bottom of the primary tower so I could get a secure fit and build pressure.
You can gauge the flow and trust the passages are open this way and you can check them all, primary, secondary and their air bleeds and the accelerator nozzles. I had at first used the spray cans of cleaner on this carb and thought I was good but when I checked it this way I found the air bleed for the secondary on two carb bodies were open but not like the others.
This worked very good for me to check for blockages and it is cheap enough, hope this helps someone.
I am also frequently needing to rinse out passages, and have experimented with several things to accomplish this. A few months ago I dreamed this up, and it works really well for rinsing blind and through-holes:

Image

Step two is to dry them, and for that, a similar rubber-tipped nozzle works well in most cases with compressed air, but if you want to get into a blind passage and blast debris out, a ball inflator needle will thread onto some styles of compressed airguns, and works really well too.
Nils Menten
Tucson, Arizona, USA '80 CBX, sort-of restored :-)

Larry Zimmer
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Re: Passage testing.

Post by Larry Zimmer »

So good! Thanks for the shop tips, guys.
Larry Zimmer
cbxlarry@sbcglobal.net

Rick Pope
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Re: Passage testing.

Post by Rick Pope »

The clever tricks I see here are amazing. Thanks to you both.
Rick Pope
Either garage is too small or we have too many bikes. Or Momma's car needs to go outside.

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Jeff Bennetts
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Re: Passage testing.

Post by Jeff Bennetts »

A good selection of electric guitar strings will help with the heavier blockages, they are similar to the carb cleaner wire kits but longer and more flexible. You can cut them to the size that works best and put one end of the quitar string in a jeweler's hand drill to get a good grip on things.

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