wont start ive run out of ideas.

Hey, what projects are you planning or preparing for? CBX, other motos, workshop, WHATEVAH!
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wyly
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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

daves79x wrote:Gas them up on the bench and attach a clear tube to the bowl drains one at a time. Curve it up past the throat and open the drain screw. The level of fuel in the bowl will show in the tube. See what you get on all 6.

Dave
Only #2 gets any gas at all,
CBX a work in progress, still improving...GS1150EFE completed and awaiting modifications.....RD350, remnants in boxes scattered throughout the garage

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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

I began disassembly inspection and cleaning.

all standpipes are good, bowls are clean passages open, replaced one o ring.

looking at float valves I noticed that the little sprung pin is longer on the keysters than the oems,
Removed floats, all came out easily except #2 ! The only carb that got any fuel hmmm. Coincidence?
CBX a work in progress, still improving...GS1150EFE completed and awaiting modifications.....RD350, remnants in boxes scattered throughout the garage

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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

I notice a difference in the keyster valve seats, the washers area different thickness than the oems, they are thinner.

also looking into the large fuel tube that connects the carbs I see gas in the line at carb 5, so I assume the line is open and the problem has something to do with the needle valve/seat and float that is shutting off fuel flow to the bowls?

Does that sound logical?
CBX a work in progress, still improving...GS1150EFE completed and awaiting modifications.....RD350, remnants in boxes scattered throughout the garage

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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

Just a guess on my part but does it appear that the technician just replaced parts and made no allowance for differences in sizes and failed to adjust float height to compensate and now the floats are shutting off fuel flow?
CBX a work in progress, still improving...GS1150EFE completed and awaiting modifications.....RD350, remnants in boxes scattered throughout the garage

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wyly
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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

Sprayed carb cleaner thrpugh the main feed and confirmed it is clear.
CBX a work in progress, still improving...GS1150EFE completed and awaiting modifications.....RD350, remnants in boxes scattered throughout the garage

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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

Sprayed carb cleaner through the main feed and confirmed it is clear.
accelerator pump cleaned, as well as the line connecting the other carbs.
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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by daves79x »

Are you sure the floats aren't installed upside down? Something obviously seriously wrong there.

Dave

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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

daves79x wrote:Are you sure the floats aren't installed upside down? Something obviously seriously wrong there.

Dave
No. Unless im really dumb or blind (possible) they were in correct.

I put the original valve and seats back in, the valves were different dimensions.

I measured the float height after I installed the oem valves and the float heights were about 18mm, I set them as best I could to factory 15.5mm.

If I understand how it works 18mm setting plus longer pins on the new valves would shut of fuel flow would it not?. Or do i have that backwards.

Anyways I have them all back together now and I'll do a wet test and see if I get gas in the bowls.

I found lots of blockages in my cleaning but nothing that would explain the dry bowls.
CBX a work in progress, still improving...GS1150EFE completed and awaiting modifications.....RD350, remnants in boxes scattered throughout the garage

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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

daves79x wrote:Are you sure the floats aren't installed upside down? Something obviously seriously wrong there.

Dave
I have gas in every bowl Dave woo hoo!

Can you tell me the pre settings for idle mix screws?
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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by daves79x »

Ok - not sure what you did, but measure the level in the bowls with the clear tubing propped as they would be on the bike. Curve your tube toward the front and the bowl level should be about the middle of the heads of the large Phillips -head screws that hold the front frame to the carb rack.

Dave

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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

Me neither, I just cleaned all the crud and put the oem valve and seat back in and adjusted the float height. I'm not complaining.

ill do the clear tubing check in the morning.
CBX a work in progress, still improving...GS1150EFE completed and awaiting modifications.....RD350, remnants in boxes scattered throughout the garage

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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by daves79x »

'Cleaned all the crud' - means what? If the carbs were just rebuilt, they should have been perfectly clean. Did you turn dirty gas into them when you tried to start the bike? If so, you obviously need to clean the tank and put on a huge filter.

Where are you going to take your engine to have the cases split and the timing issue fixed? Or are you going to tackle that yourself?

Dave

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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

daves79x wrote:'Cleaned all the crud' - means what? If the carbs were just rebuilt, they should have been perfectly clean. Did you turnfinally ls into them when you tried to start the bike? If so, you obviously need to clean the tank and put on a huge filter.

Where are you going to take your engine to have the cases split and the timing issue fixed? Or are you going to tackle that yourself?

Dave
The carbs weren't rebuilt they were supposedly cleaned in a ultrasonic bath. But I found a number of passages that were completely clogged, the check valve that they only cleaned after I insisted was only partially cleaned. Another valve on the side of carb # 1? Was clogged solid with dirt I cleared it with a tiny guitar wire and repeated blasts of carb cleaner. Those incredibly tiny passages inside the body, all clogged, again only with repeated blasts of cleaner did they clear.. It's not impressive when someone who knows nothing like myself can do a better job by blasting every orifice I could find with carb cleaner. The tank is rust free from what I can see and gas flowed freely from it, petcock was removed and cleaned prior.

Legally i dont have much choice but to take it back to them to correct the timimg, he said they'll correct it. I can't afford to invest any more cash by taking it elsewhere and face possible legal costs recovering what I've paid should the original guy refuse to refund.

I'll try post a picture of timing this morning for you to look at to verify it's incorrect.
CBX a work in progress, still improving...GS1150EFE completed and awaiting modifications.....RD350, remnants in boxes scattered throughout the garage

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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by wyly »

before I go to the cycle shop where my engine was rebuild it's best I get confirmation from forum members that the timing was done incorrectly.
6872
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Re: wont start ive run out of ideas.

Post by daves79x »

First, is the picture shown with the crank on the F mark? If so, then absolutely the primary shaft is off at least a tooth or maybe 2 from the crank. The pulser plate is nearly exactly where it should be to time the bike correctly. The tooth on the 1-6 pulser should be at almost the 9 o'clock position and it is. It's the primary shaft that's wrong.

Now - make sure you do exactly as follows: Take an official Honda shop manual to your guy that's going to fix his screw-up - BEFORE you take the engine. Have him go over very carefully pages 12-16, 12-17 and 12-18. If ANYTHING there seems confusing to him or he does not understand - STOP. Have him call me and I'll explain it to him. That is where he screwed up.

There is a simple check after you do the primary shaft installation to be absolutely certain it's right and it takes 5 minutes. You bolt up the clutch cover to the case half with the crank, etc in it, along with the timing shaft. Install the pulser unit in the clutch cover and bring the crank to F mark. The rotor tooth and 1-6 pulser tooth should be very close to lining up, so that just a bit of tweaking to the backing plate will bring it to time. This will insure he has it right before buttoning it up and finding it's still wrong.

Any other way you approach it will be another crap shoot.

Sent you a PM about your carbs also.

NOTE: I just edited the post for corrections to both references to the T and F marks. I had them used incorrectly. It is correct as it reads now.


Dave

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