79 silver cbx project

[neilx7]

bought a 79 silver UK model CBX running and on the road, but looking a bit shabby and rust showing all over, tank is dented and scratched, back tail piece smashed in the middle.
so stripped it down, frame powder coated, tank sealed and getting repaired and change of colour to red.
new swing arm, harness, new spark unit old unit spilt is black tar all over the shop ,new chain ,all black plastic getting repainted,
Forks rebuilt, and rebuild started, slow going at present due to work and it been Baltic in England, no heating in shed. Link to slide slow to show progress so far.(that’s if I have done it correc,t photo bucket no the most user friendly site)

http://s844.photobucket.com/user/neilx7 ... cbx_silver


cheers
neil

[daves79x]

Welcome Neil:

Sounds like an interesting project. The link shows your album is private. Simple click should correct that.

Dave

[neilx7]

thanks dave
i have made it public should work now

[steve murdoch icoa #5322]

That is the first Metmachex swingarm i have seen with out under-bracing.
Looks good so far, Neil.

[neilx7]

coming along slowly
[img][IMG]http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab10/neilx7/cbx_silver/IMG_0490_zpsc7bba581.jpg[/img][/img]

[Syscrush]

Looks very nice.

Great work!

[NobleHops]

Looks very nice.

Great work!

They always go slowly! That's the fun part. Free advice: Remove that front fender and get it out of harm's way for now.
Having it on before the engine goes in is one route to Sorrow.

[neilx7]

thanks for the advice on the front mud guard (fender) i will remove it before engine goes in
cheers
neil

[neilx7]

Engine in carbs back on.

[NobleHops]

Niiiiiice

[neilx7]

had a few problems with cylinder head snapped bolts on cam holders now sorted.

also front cam tensioner bolt not correct i.e tapped out and m12 bolt just put in hole to stop oil coming out, it wasn't touching tension rod (rod sized in hole)

I have now got correct tensioner bolt and lock nut, so the plan is to locktite a new m12 bolt in, drill and tap to m8 which is new tensioner size, machine it flush and new tensioner bolt should work like new. also i have freed the rod as well.

will post some pics of this as i plan to do it Saturday.

cheers
Neil

[EMS]

h so the plan is to locktite a new m12 bolt in, drill and tap to m8 which is new tensioner size,

cheers
Neil

I would put a brass piece into the M12 hole, instead of a bolt. This will make it easier to drill and tap and you have good threads for the new tensioner bolt.

[neilx7]

front cam tension bolt had been replaced by m12 bolt which actually was an m11 bolt ???


bolt drilled and tapped to m8 and locktited in ready for correct tensioner bolt



bolt fixed in and machines flush ready for new tensioner bolt.



now to put head back on.

cheers
Neil

[bikeymikey748]

Very nice save

[neilx7]

well cylinder head all back together cam chain adjuster working fine, valve shims all done.
problem with battery earth missing (now have info as to were it goes) so used temp cable to engine, started after a few spins sounds fine, ran it for a few minutes and noted oil coming from the front near were the cam tansionser is, but not from the tensioner its self, but from the cylinder head gasket must have damaged it when installing cam chain, so it off with the head again, and new gasket.
I was pleased it started first time and sounded a lot quieter than before, this will because i have service the carbs with the help of mike nixons carb service guide.
2 steps forward and 1 step backwards
one good thing to come out of this is, I am quite proficient at removing cylinder head and putting it back together. 3 times now.
still a few month of summer left in England, so still could be back on road soon.

ps
just come back from 2 weeks in France Belgium Germany on the speed triple r, some great road over in Europe. The B500 in Germany must be one of the best biking roads there is.

Neil