The International CBX Owners Association

How are the fork emulators feel ? Are they worth the money and how difficult are they to put together ? Sorry I asked a whole series of questions :)

AshishNJ wrote: ↑

Wed May 19, 2021 10:21 pm

How are the fork emulators feel ? Are they worth the money and how difficult are they to put together ? Sorry I asked a whole series of questions :)

I've never ridden the bike with the stock fork setup so can't comment on the improvement. However, I like the end result, the fork doesn't bottom that I've noticed so far and it is not at all harsh on high speed dampening that often plagues stock forks. I changed the fork springs as well according to the RaceTech selector on their website. This link provides the details on the stock damper rod vs. the emulators.

https://www.racetech.com/page/title/Emu ... hey%20Work

You need to take the forks completely apart to install as the damper rod compression holes need to be enlarged to allow the emulators to control the compression action. RaceTech will provide the recommended emulator settings for the initial install, adjustments after require the springs to be removed and the emulators fished out from the top of the forks. Messy but doubtful you’d need to adjust.

AshishNJ wrote: ↑

Wed May 19, 2021 10:21 pm

How are the fork emulators feel ? Are they worth the money and how difficult are they to put together ? Sorry I asked a whole series of questions :)

I have ridden multiple damping rod fork bikes and a few before & after emulators on a mix of city streets, highways, and race tracks. They are 100% the best improvement that can be made for the money. Damping rod forks do the exact opposite of what you want: they're soft under under low-frequency loads (so they dive when braking), and stiff under high-frequency loads (so they get unsettled over rough pavement). Changing springs or fork oil can help with one end of the spectrum, but will hurt with the other end.

This is really loose, but IMO cartridge emulators get you to about half of the ride quality and control of a basic cartridge fork for about half of the money. On smooth pavement like in the Carolinas, interstates, or most race tracks, the emulators can feel about as good as real cartridges.

Personally, I also feel that it's worth it to spend more to get more and go with full cart internals, but that doesn't change the fact that the emulators are the best $500 change you can do for a damping rod front end - and the only real option for those who have and want/need to keep 35mm forks.

I thought long and hard and secured everything to convert the 79 to an 81 suspension and brakes. But , after all that, I am still undecided. It is a pristine 79 and very nicely restored. I know the brakes are not great but I still crave for better handling. Having said that, I don’t want to make any radical changes. Adding an emulator and a brace is what’s in my mind.

The emulator is good, but forget the fork brace. A big waste of money.

Dave

IMO the Pro-link forks are only an upgrade if you also do a full cartridge swap on the internals (which is possible with the 39mm forks but not the 35).

If you want to keep the stock forks but improve braking, the 2-piston calipers from the Pro-link forks are good - in part because EBC makes HH pads for them. The 35mm forks with 2-piston calipers and EBC HH pads would be a huge improvement from the stock twin-shock front end.

I've been through the before and after conversion of Racetech emulators and springs, the improvement is remarkable, I never felt a need for a brace as Dave posted a waste of money. My mechanic with suspension expertise in WSBK in racing says they're an amazing bit of kit, "Unless you're making a conversion to inverted forks it's all you need". OEM appearance with improved performance.

I don't have any great mechanical aptitude but I manged to install them on my own, I only needed a machinist to drill the required holes because I don't have a drill press. Racetech was very good with responding to any questions you may have and setting you up with the correct springs.

Twin pot brakes from a later model are a must have, safety 1st! I salvaged my twin pots front and back from a 83 or 84 750F, if you take the hangers as well they're a straight swap. Only another CBX owner will notice the brakes are an upgrade. The difference between the 79 single pot and the later twin pots can literally be a lifesaver . As Syscrush posted EBC HH pads, some people will say they're too hard on the rotors, who cares when they wear out get new ones they're cheap and plentiful.

Prolink front end on a twin shock with cartridge emulators is a sleeper mod. That’s a MUCH stouter fork. The twin shock fender needs some spacers as I recall, or you can get a Prolink fender painted, better yet. Plus the gauge cluster bolts are different. I have the twin pot brakes on my 35mm stock fork on my ‘80, they are night and day better than the stock single pot calipers. My MC is sleeved and I am convinced that’s a meaningful element of the outstanding front brake performance.

Nils

What twin pots on 35 forks ?

Complete 900F including caliper hangers bolt right on. Lots of threads here about it.

Dave

Search is on..

You can also use Prolink calipers. There used to be thicker pads available to compensate for the wider spacing.

But then you still need 900F hangers unless you use the Pro-Link vented rotors, but then you wouldn't need thicker pads or spacers. The Pro-Link caliper hangers are for the larger diameter rotors and will not work with early rotors.

Dave

You do not want early rotors anyway, because the swept area is different.

You for sure don't want the heavy over- engineered Pro-Link ones either. Complete 900F setup, rotors and all is the way to go. And I think you missed my point, the caliper hangers for the Pro-Link are different due to the rotors being larger in diameter. 900F (and a few others) bolt right on. All that said, I have no complaints about the stock brakes on my '79. If everything's right, they work fine too.


Dave